Do I really need to rebarrel?

Foxyboy43

Well-Known Member
A common theme running through many of the SD posts is “rebarrelling” - because the existing barrel is “shot out” i.e. so many rounds (sometimes less than 1000) through it that erosion, wear and tear etc… has negatively impacted on the accuracy required to the point that replacement is required. These comments and what followed intrigue me. I can perhaps see the case if shooting high-level competition —especially at 1000 yards plus but I really do wonder what real impact barrel wear has on accuracy for rifles used for deerstalking at the typically 300 yards or less ranges typical in the UK - even the DSC shooting requirement is easily attainable with “sloppy” bores. I am probably influenced by my god knows how old Remmy 700 .222 (bless) which has had literally tens of thousands of rounds through it, is only occassionally bore-cleaned, the bore looks like a crazed mirror but yet the old girl consistently does sub-half inch at 100 yards and my M44 Mosin which is just craze(d)y, counter-bored by more than an inch and as a result the barrel/bore length is verging on “sawn-off”.
Sooo, a genuine question chaps - am I just extremely lucky, is rebarrelling really necessary or is it just another “must have” for those who choose to subscribe to this theory?
🦊🦊
 
You must be lucky. First and second barrels suffered a noticeable drop in accuracy, resulting in a few "fliers" and wounded deer. Second one was after about 3,300 rounds. But if yours is still accurate, I'd leave it.
 
Whitworth 308 from 1970's, was loosing accuracy, rechecked bullet seating. 150g 1mm out of case neck to touch lands, enough said.

Secondhand 222 Sako, looked OK but never shot well. New barrel via Robin and easy 1/2" groups with factory ammo.

If it shoot barrel is OK, if it doesn't, a worn barrel might be the issue.
 
Whitworth 308 from 1970's, was loosing accuracy, rechecked bullet seating. 150g 1mm out of case neck to touch lands, enough said.

Secondhand 222 Sako, looked OK but never shot well. New barrel via Robin and easy 1/2" groups with factory ammo.

If it shoot barrel is OK, if it doesn't, a worn barrel might be the issue.
A competent hand loader can fix all sorts of problems.
 
Most barrels that are denominated as 'shot out by their owners are simply miserably maintained. The groves are filled with carbon baked to glas hard deposits suggesting that the rifling is gone.
Having said that, it makes a world of a difference wether you are talking about a .222 or a .300WM, just to name these two. The former will hardly ever kill a barrel while the latter can do so within no time at all.
 
Before spending a few hundred hard earned pounds on a rebarrel give the rifle a really good check over and the barrel a good deep clean.

Barrels wear at the throat and seating the bullets slightly longer can help return accuracy. If the crown is not sharp a relap of the crown may help, or indeed a recut.

But if your mind is set on a new barrel your rifle won’t shoot until the itch is scratched. Much of accuracy has not a lot to do with the rifle and cartridge but everything to do with what is between the ears.
 
There’s accuracy and accuracy, consider estate rifles in gun rooms, used and more used. Of an eve, wiped over with rag and out the next day. Take to target shoot group that fits into tea cup, but drops deer no problem.
Out of choice would not have, but do the job just fine, pure tool.
 
To anyone thinking that a barrel is shot out, I'd suggest the first thing to do is get everything checked over for tightness. The second step is to ask the best shot you know to put a 5 round group down range with it, without telling them anything about the rifle.
 
A common theme running through many of the SD posts is “rebarrelling” - because the existing barrel is “shot out” i.e. so many rounds (sometimes less than 1000) through it that erosion, wear and tear etc… has negatively impacted on the accuracy required to the point that replacement is required. These comments and what followed intrigue me. I can perhaps see the case if shooting high-level competition —especially at 1000 yards plus but I really do wonder what real impact barrel wear has on accuracy for rifles used for deerstalking at the typically 300 yards or less ranges typical in the UK - even the DSC shooting requirement is easily attainable with “sloppy” bores. I am probably influenced by my god knows how old Remmy 700 .222 (bless) which has had literally tens of thousands of rounds through it, is only occassionally bore-cleaned, the bore looks like a crazed mirror but yet the old girl consistently does sub-half inch at 100 yards and my M44 Mosin which is just craze(d)y, counter-bored by more than an inch and as a result the barrel/bore length is verging on “sawn-off”.
Sooo, a genuine question chaps - am I just extremely lucky, is rebarrelling really necessary or is it just another “must have” for those who choose to subscribe to this theory?
🦊🦊
It depends. I have had one rifle rebarreled, but it was rust not wear that had caused it (bought it that way). During a conversation with the ‘smith who did the job. He said that he’d only seen a few truly “shot out” rifles. Most were dead from damage from poor cleaning techniques and quite often rust from moderator use/misuse (ie left on).
I had a 243 that had the first six inches of rifling missing it still shot MOA. My 6.5x55 was quite frankly a bargain the seller possibly a little too honest about its life (cullers rifle). It is a little rough down the bore, would possibly get you a “needs a new barrel that”. From many a gun shop, however it shoots well enough out to 300+ yards. So it’s getting left alone, to be honest my 270 barrel doesn’t look too good either but again it shoots. The good thing is either will make a good adapter for a new barrel when the time comes.
I can see the point of “barrel life” if the odd thou is the difference between winning or not. But most people are far from that accurate especially on deer. Or for that matter it isn’t that critical to be to the thou.
Don’t get me wrong I have accurate rifles and I load accurate (consistent) ammunition.
I don’t think you “need” a new barrel till it starts throwing fliers or groups like a shotgun.
 
I shot my dsc1 with a shot out barrel that never bettered 2.5” groups but a couple of others never even passed the shooting test with fancy new rigs lol.
 
Must be a .222 trait.
I too had an old Rem 700, bought 2nd hand . The barrel was rust pitted but the darn thing would still group around 1/2" with factory ammo. I did have it rebarreled with a Varmint profile (Sassen) and yes, it's even more accurate, but in reality it wasn't necessary.
 
I have a 1954 BSA Hunter in .222 that had the trigger adjusted so the bolt could not be removed and so had decades of fouling in the bore when I bought it. To get the bolt out I had to remove the trigger group. Spent about a day getting the fouling out (wearing out about five phosphor bronze brushes in the process) out and the middle third of the barrel was missing rifling due to horrendous pitting. I assumed it would need rebarrelling but it turns out to shoot about an MOA out to 600yds with cheapo brass and bullets and my clumsy neck-sized reloads. I clean it with JB bore paste as the extreme pitting accumulates lots of fouling.BSA Hunter .222 Remington resized.webp
 
There was a time, many years ago when we didn't even know about barrels wearing out. We owned rifles for years, cleaned them occasionally and shot things with them. When I was an armourer in the RAF I never heard about worn out barrels, and many of the old 303s had had a hard life, but still shot well enough.

Sometimes I think, a little knowledge is a dangerous thing!
 
^^ That is such a good looking rifle 👍
Thanks it is the BSA mini-Mauser design, before the penny-pinching began. The bolt operates as smooth as my AI and the trigger is also pretty good. They come up for sale at Holts from time to time, which is where I got this one so keep your eyes on their website if you want one.
 
Interesting responses chaps and as ever many differing views. As no-one has really mentioned it, it did leave me wondering whether the state of the barrel crown could be the more significant factor in loss of accuracy - as it is the last point of contact for the bullet?
🦊🦊
 
I have had a quandary recently, I am awaiting my variation for 30.06 , I have always kept Tikka T3 rifles, friend has offered me his Sako finlight with scope mounts for a little less then I could buy a new Tikka T3, The Sako has fired approx 500 rounds over a 3 year period since new and is extremely accurate.
What is the life expectancy on a rifle barrel that has received average care.?
I do know the sound mod is removed after every day use,
 
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