Knife Sharpening

[Keeperjosh]

Hi all,

I'm sure this is gets touched on regularly, but I was wondering everyone's opinion on the above topic.

I am looking for a 'fool proof' method of sharpening both a standard mora, and an eka swingblade. The mora will need some work to bring a decent edge back but the swingblade is almost new.

Would be brilliant if any piece of kit could transfer into the kitchen too.

It's a minefield of different products and methods, what's everybody using themselves?

Josh

 

[20ppc]

I use a Wicked Edge Knife sharpening system, it’s not cheap but does a brilliant job on every type of knife Wicked Edge Precision Sharpener WE120 Sharpening System

 

[StephenToast]

Amtech E2557 4 Sided Diamond Sharpening Block https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B007NHR3BC/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_FQYAPB817PPY1QDDWQDQ

 

[Island]

Hi all,

I'm sure this is gets touched on regularly, but I was wondering everyone's opinion on the above topic.

I am looking for a 'fool proof' method of sharpening both a standard mora, and an eka swingblade. The mora will need some work to bring a decent edge back but the swingblade is almost new.

Would be brilliant if any piece of kit could transfer into the kitchen too.

It's a minefield of different products and methods, what's everybody using themselves?

Josh

Fool proof? I think you're chasing your tail unfortunately!

What you choose depends on how deep down the rabbit hole you want to go. I own countless whetstones, oilstones, ceramic steels, "steel" steels, paddle strops, polishing pastes, polishing blocks, a Lansky system, a WorkSharp Ken Onion belt-thingy and a Tormek. Each will see use depending on the blade, the state it is in, what I want to achieve, what I want to use it for and, usually over-ridingly, how much effort I can be bothered to put in to sharpening it!

I try to keep on top of my knives regularly. Little and often is the key, the more often you touch them up the less that needs doing. Usually a blade will see a strop or steel after every single use.

If it is a cheap "working" knife (in the stalking sense) then I most regularly use the Lansky system if it is in need of a going over.

My kitchen choppers? Different kettle of fish entirely. If I have been remiss and let them get in a state then the process would start with the Tormek and end with various strops, taking in everything in between.

Whatever system you choose however will need it's own technique and lots of practise. Your end result is directly related to how much work you put in.

 

[Keeperjosh]

Perhaps fool proof was the wrong choice of words haha. I understand the practice, skill and hard work involved in getting knives scarily sharp.

Im just looking for a reliable way a novice can get a relatively sharp edge, that does the job cleanly and safely.

 

[Jax]

wet stones for the mora (assuming is a Scandi grind) and a strop. As said above, a strip after every outing gives a razor edge. Got my strop from Danum, along with a knife. New one of the way. Looking forward to the latest one

 

[stevenedwards]

Wet and dry paper in three grades taped to a flat surface, a piece of glass in my case, and a leather strop. Costs almost nothing and seems to work. Have you found Kyle Noseworthy on you tube by any chance

 

[25 Sharps]

There was a thread on here a while Back showing how to do a Mora with wet and dry paper and a magnet I think, looked good.

I use a set of diamond boards and a strop for moras and my Stainthorp knife. Keeps them all shaving sharp which is plenty for me.

 

[Utectok]

I’ve tried a lot and can sharpen well on a good old whetstone however the warthog v2 with 600grit diamond bar is quick and effective. A couple of swipes on the lansky mini crock stick to finish. Both at 25 degrees. It really is simple to get knives literally razor sharp if you do the above

 

[Rasputin]

A vote for Lansky here it need a little practice to get it right but once you have done a few it’s very easy and repeatable. Would recommend.

 

[Tae]

Another vote for Lansky, also fairly cheap.

 

[willie_gunn]

Get the Lansky four-rod box - it’s about as fool proof as anything you’re likely to find.

I have that, but also sharpeners including the Spyderco Sharpmaker, Tormek, Nirey, Waring, Chef’s Choice, Bobet, Caribou, DMT, water stones, oil stones and Wicked Edge, to name but a few….

The Lansky is the easiest and gets used the most.

 

[RJD]

I have a lansky turnbox and a Lansky masters edge in addition to a bunch of steels, stones and other pull through, only the masters edge gets used although turnbox lives in my shooting bag

 

[Island]

Perhaps fool proof was the wrong choice of words haha. I understand the practice, skill and hard work involved in getting knives scarily sharp.

Im just looking for a reliable way a novice can get a relatively sharp edge, that does the job cleanly and safely.

That, to me, sounds like you are after a Lansky.

 

[WellieP]

Here’s a piece I wrote for rifle shooter on the topic. Happy to answer questions so feel free to dm me if anything is unclear.

The complete guide to knife sharpening

I would also recommend the worksharp guided field sharpener for people if they’re struggling

Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener – Deer Central

deercentral.co.uk

All the best, Phil

 

[paultap]

I've found that no one system is suitable for every type of knife grind in my experience, for example, I have a lansky sharpening set, but it isn't at all suitable for a convex edge like on a Falkniven knife, I realised this after a few passes when sharpening and stopped before it ruined the edge profile. The Lansky is good for most other types of knife grinds though. I have other sharpening systems such as the EZE -LAP diamond stone and the Spyderco sharpmaker in addition to the Lansky system.

I like Falkniven knives and have an original F2, but I find a convex edge is the hardest to sharpen. It would like to buy a Falkniven R2 Scout but to be honest, I am reluctant to get it due to the convex edge. Most people will say to just keep it stropped on a stropping board with some stropping compound (which I have) but any damage to the edge will require more than that. I haven't tried the spyderco sharpmaker on it yet though.

Falkniven owners - please feel free to chip in with some advice!

 

[Keeperjosh]

Thanks for the suggestions gents

 

[willie_gunn]

Here’s a piece I wrote for rifle shooter on the topic. Happy to answer questions so feel free to dm me if anything is unclear.

The complete guide to knife sharpening

I would also recommend the worksharp guided field sharpener for people if they’re struggling

Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener – Deer Central

deercentral.co.uk

All the best, Phil

A very good article, thank you.

Would like to see a photo of the "Solingen-made straight razor" you mention.....

 

[East Coast Lifeboat]

Buy a new Mora for less than 20 quid and dash the old one to your misses for gardening.

The money saved on expensive sharpening kit can be donated to your local landlords pension fund....cheers.

 

[Utectok]

I've found that no one system is suitable for every type of knife grind in my experience, for example, I have a lansky sharpening set, but it isn't at all suitable for a convex edge like on a Falkniven knife, I realised this after a few passes when sharpening and stopped before it ruined the edge profile. The Lansky is good for most other types of knife grinds though. I have other sharpening systems such as the EZE -LAP diamond stone and the Spyderco sharpmaker in addition to the Lansky system.

I like Falkniven knives and have an original F2, but I find a convex edge is the hardest to sharpen. It would like to buy a Falkniven R2 Scout but to be honest, I am reluctant to get it due to the convex edge. Most people will say to just keep it stropped on a stropping board with some stropping compound (which I have) but any damage to the edge will require more than that. I haven't tried the spyderco sharpmaker on it yet though.

Falkniven owners - please feel free to chip in with some advice!

My view is knives should be sharpened like this….