Stropping

Donkey Basher

Well-Known Member
When I started stalking I used an oil stone to put an edge on my knife (note the use of the singular…) as & when needed.

Then I bought a handful of Mora Companion knives & a Lansky sharpener which made sharpening a lot more consistent & I used the knives in rotation so always had a sharp one after I’d dulled the blade on one of the others.

A couple of years back I bought a Worksharp Precision & that made sharpening even easier, however, I was still relying on stones to put an edge back on the knives after I’d been a bit heavy handed with them or caught the gambrel when taking a back leg off etc.

Over Xmas I decided to see what this stropping lark was all about as I now had a nice pair of knives that I was using a lot & wanted to keep an edge on without too much hassle. Now, no offence to those who make & sell stropping boards but I decided they’re not that difficult to make so cut a 2” x 8” piece of 12mm ‘engineering grade’ ply & stuck a nice piece of full saddle veg tan leather to it. I then bought a small block of polishing compound & rubbed it over the leather surface. I now had a stropping block.

After giving both knives a pass or two on the worksharp with the ceramic ‘stone’ I started stropping them until I got a polished bevel & then did the paper test - wow!

I always keep my knives sharp, but I can’t get over how much sharper these seem to be now I’m stropping them - cutting is effortless, even Muntjac hocking for the gambrel. Yesterday I abused the Bobtail a bit, the buck I’d shot standing on its back legs was a mess at the front end & the chest saw wasn't having it on the last bit of the sternum as there was nothing to pull against so I used the knife to cut through the last bit. When I came to take the head off I noticed that the edge was a bit dull & cursed myself.

Got home, cleaned them properly & stropped them - result was razor sharp again 👍

The knives themselves are an Enzo (now Brisa) Fisher that I bought from @wellyboot & then cut down in length, changed the blade shape & then reground (by hand using a diamond block) & a Brisa Bobtail that I bought as a blade & fitted scales to to make a ‘pair’ - the scales are a slightly different colour & I haven’t yet finished profiling the handle or polishing it as it got rushed into service this winter. The double pancake sheath is one made by @snake_2586 & very kindly offered to me by @FISH BOY & being used while I try to work out how to make a stacked sheath to take the pair of them.

The Fisher is an excellent tunnelling knife & works on everything from Muntjac to Fallow, the Bobtail does everything else needed for a gralloch.

Oh, & one thing I now use as routine is a cut proof glove under the disposable gloves when doing any gralloching or carcass prep - last year, before I started stropping, I cut myself twice - not as badly as @VSS did but enough to make me a lot more careful around sharp blades…

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do you use the solid blocks of compound or have you tried diamond compound on the strop ?
 
Just use a small block of green compound.
for the sake of a few quid try a 6 micron diamond powder from the bay or aliexpress,.

Would luv to watch that process being done, my efforts are mediocre by comparison and results are suspect? Got all the gear no idea!

BC.
try this bc.................strop

just did this with my pocket knife, not the best but it is sharp. its not had a strop for a while, push cut standard paper. sharpish
 
When I started stalking I used an oil stone to put an edge on my knife (note the use of the singular…) as & when needed.

Then I bought a handful of Mora Companion knives & a Lansky sharpener which made sharpening a lot more consistent & I used the knives in rotation so always had a sharp one after I’d dulled the blade on one of the others.

A couple of years back I bought a Worksharp Precision & that made sharpening even easier, however, I was still relying on stones to put an edge back on the knives after I’d been a bit heavy handed with them or caught the gambrel when taking a back leg off etc.

Over Xmas I decided to see what this stropping lark was all about as I now had a nice pair of knives that I was using a lot & wanted to keep an edge on without too much hassle. Now, no offence to those who make & sell stropping boards but I decided they’re not that difficult to make so cut a 2” x 8” piece of 12mm ‘engineering grade’ ply & stuck a nice piece of full saddle veg tan leather to it. I then bought a small block of polishing compound & rubbed it over the leather surface. I now had a stropping block.

After giving both knives a pass or two on the worksharp with the ceramic ‘stone’ I started stropping them until I got a polished bevel & then did the paper test - wow!

I always keep my knives sharp, but I can’t get over how much sharper these seem to be now I’m stropping them - cutting is effortless, even Muntjac hocking for the gambrel. Yesterday I abused the Bobtail a bit, the buck I’d shot standing on its back legs was a mess at the front end & the chest saw wasn't having it on the last bit of the sternum as there was nothing to pull against so I used the knife to cut through the last bit. When I came to take the head off I noticed that the edge was a bit dull & cursed myself.

Got home, cleaned them properly & stropped them - result was razor sharp again 👍

The knives themselves are an Enzo (now Brisa) Fisher that I bought from @wellyboot & then cut down in length, changed the blade shape & then reground (by hand using a diamond block) & a Brisa Bobtail that I bought as a blade & fitted scales to to make a ‘pair’ - the scales are a slightly different colour & I haven’t yet finished profiling the handle or polishing it as it got rushed into service this winter. The double pancake sheath is one made by @snake_2586 & very kindly offered to me by @FISH BOY & being used while I try to work out how to make a stacked sheath to take the pair of them.

The Fisher is an excellent tunnelling knife & works on everything from Muntjac to Fallow, the Bobtail does everything else needed for a gralloch.

Oh, & one thing I now use as routine is a cut proof glove under the disposable gloves when doing any gralloching or carcass prep - last year, before I started stropping, I cut myself twice - not as badly as @VSS did but enough to make me a lot more careful around sharp blades…

View attachment 461676

Like you I always wear a mesh glove when working with knives now. Was distracted last year and passed my knife over one of my knuckles. Wow - it hurt and took forever to heal. Lesson learned.
 
Yup, the thin mesh gloves from Amazon for about 20 quid do the trick without being cumbersome.
 
@Donkey Basher

Sorry if I misunderstood and for being pedantic, but you have two types of knife grind which require different sharpening techniques:
- Moras are scandi grinds which require a flat stone not a Lansky. A Lansky will always put on a slightly different angle from the original one. With a stone, this sets the angle.
- The Enzo / Brisas in your photo are flat grinds or maybe compound grinds. If you can keep the angle constant you can also use a stone, but Lanksys make quick work of these and are ideal.

Both can be stropped. I agree with you that leather on a wooden board works well!
 
I use a flexible leather strop on my convex grind F1. If it gets blunt every once in a while I use wet and dry paper over a mouse mat to retain the profile. I guess that I could try a strop/soft mat/wood combination for a convex blade, anyone prefer that over a leather strop?
 
@Donkey Basher

Sorry if I misunderstood and for being pedantic, but you have two types of knife grind which require different sharpening techniques:
- Moras are scandi grinds which require a flat stone not a Lansky. A Lansky will always put on a slightly different angle from the original one. With a stone, this sets the angle.
- The Enzo / Brisas in your photo are flat grinds or maybe compound grinds. If you can keep the angle constant you can also use a stone, but Lanksys make quick work of these and are ideal.

Both can be stropped. I agree with you that leather on a wooden board works well!
Got to admit that I’m a bit of a philistine… I put a secondary bevel on both the scandi & flat grinds, 20 degrees. It works for me!
 
Back in the day, when CPD amounted to whatever you could get away with on a Wednesday afternoon, I enrolled on a handsewn leather making course at Cordwainers College. Week #2 and we handed a c10X4 inch lenth of wood and instructed to glue a piece of leather to it. This was to be our clicker knive sharpening tool once impregnated with fine valve grinding paste.

K
 
Back in the day, when CPD amounted to whatever you could get away with on a Wednesday afternoon, I enrolled on a handsewn leather making course at Cordwainers College. Week #2 and we handed a c10X4 inch lenth of wood and instructed to glue a piece of leather to it. This was to be our clicker knive sharpening tool once impregnated with fine valve grinding paste.

K
My CPD was never as ‘diverse’ as that!

However the last consultancy firm I worked for was very keen on corporate responsibility which covered a very broad spectrum of activities 👍
 
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