Brass, how many reloads?

[wildfowler.250]

looking for some advice guys if possible please? I’ve got a RCBS full length die for my .270 and 6.5x55.

How many times can I reload the brass before I need to scrap it? And does it vary with caliber? My oldest stuff for the .270 has been fired 3 times so, once from new, and then reloaded and shot a further twice.


Last thing I want is so pull X number of rounds together only to find I should have bought new cases.


Thanks!

 

[User00040]

How long is a piece of string?

If you need to ask this question, you need to do more research.

Whilst I appreciate that a forum is a place where questions should be asked and answered freely, reloading information (like load data) should not be spoon-fed to someone who can't be bothered to research.

Too many factors, quality of brass, how has it been stored/prepped/sized, how high pressure were the loads, what sizing dies were used, how much sizing was done, were they annealed (properly?), and what type of action you are using... etc.

Dead giveaway is cracks in neck or case head separation.

Happy to reccomend reading material.

 

[jcampbellsmith]

I had some 260 Rem that I fired 12 times. I have some 6.5 Creedmoor Norma brass that will be fired 7 times and scrapped as the primer pockets are getting looser. As above, there are a myriad of factors to consider. Ultimately, it's your call as you are doing the reloading and then shooting it. I've read of 6PPC and .222 Rem being reloaded in excess of 30 times.
Regards
JCS

 

[wildfowler.250]

How long is a piece of string?

If you need to ask this question, you need to do more research.

Whilst I appreciate that a forum is a place where questions should be asked and answered freely, reloading information (like load data) should not be spoon-fed to someone who can't be bothered to research.

Too many factors, quality of brass, how has it been stored/prepped/sized, how high pressure were the loads, what sizing dies were used, how much sizing was done, were they annealed (properly?), and what type of action you are using... etc.

Dead giveaway is cracks in neck or case head separation.

Happy to reccomend reading material.

Thanks bud. I’ve read a decent amount of the Nosler book. Essentially what I’m trying to avoid is potentially loading up 50-60 rounds to then start seeing things like cracked brass etc and then have to pull the whole lot apart.

It’s Norma brass so should be fairly decent. I appreciate the thought process behind reading a textbook and not off the internet but there must be a rough rule of thumb as to how long the brass will last.

 

[DVS1]

As a rough guideline you can probably have 2-3 firings before you'll notice a distinct difference in neck tension, then it be best to get them annealed. Depends on your use though, target and long distance you'd want consistency, stalking at 100-150m you'd not really need to worry too much as long as you can ethically place the shot.

 

[wildfowler.250]

I had some 260 Rem that I fired 12 times. I have some 6.5 Creedmoor Norma brass that will be fired 7 times and scrapped as the primer pockets are getting looser. As above, there are a myriad of factors to consider. Ultimately, it's your call as you are doing the reloading and then shooting it. I've read of 6PPC and .222 Rem being reloaded in excess of 30 times.
Regards
JCS

Cheers! Appreciate it comes down to the individual at the end of the day. Certainly sounds like reloading 4 or 5 times shouldn’t be a concern if you can get double that.

Just don’t want to double the workload by loading things up to then get out in the field and realize they need pulled and start from a fresh

 

[wildfowler.250]

As a rough guideline you can probably have 2-3 firings before you'll notice a distinct difference in neck tension, then it be best to get them annealed. Depends on your use though, target and long distance you'd want consistency, stalking at 100-150m you'd not really need to worry too much as long as you can ethically place the shot.

That’s interesting! To be honest I don’t have the facility to anneal brass at the moment so it may be easier to start again from fresh at that point than fork out on more kit

- it’s a hobby that grows arms and legs that’s for sure!

 

[Davee]

I have a lot of 6.5x55 that have been fired 24 times, annealed every 3rd firing, some will have to go soon as the primer tension is going.

 

[long_range_rob]

I have a 6mm PPC and I suspect I will be able to leave the brass to my son in my will as it seems everlasting, my .308 load is a bit hotter and dies after 3-4 reloads without good annealing

 

[User00040]

As a rough guideline you can probably have 2-3 firings before you'll notice a distinct difference in neck tension, then it be best to get them annealed.

Firing and subsequent spring back has little to do with the brass needing annealed, it's about how much your die is working the brass (cold worked).

 

[User00040]

That’s interesting! To be honest I don’t have the facility to anneal brass at the moment so it may be easier to start again from fresh at that point than fork out on more kit

If you own a blowtorch or can buy one, you can anneal brass.

Doing it properly (to a consistent level) and not taking up too much time is where the machines come in.

 

[DVS1]

That’s interesting! To be honest I don’t have the facility to anneal brass at the moment so it may be easier to start again from fresh at that point than fork out on more kit

- it’s a hobby that grows arms and legs that’s for sure!

To be fair I've reloaded some of my lapua 223 brass 5 times in-between annealing when I first started, I'm guessing each calibre has its own quirks

 

[DVS1]

Firing and subsequent spring back has little to do with the brass needing annealed, it's about how much your die is working the brass (cold worked).

I'm no expert but I was under the belief for consistency of neck tension its best to keep necks soft by annealing? I've not seen that video as yet but have marked it for a watch.

 

[Dickie]

That’s interesting! To be honest I don’t have the facility to anneal brass at the moment so it may be easier to start again from fresh at that point than fork out on more kit

- it’s a hobby that grows arms and legs that’s for sure!

There are a few people that offer annealing service.

 

[Stalker62]

I don’t have the facility to anneal brass at the moment...

Purists will anneal after each firing - standby for alternate views.

For precision annealing you could do worse than the AMP annealer.

For .270 calibre you will need Pilot No. 14
For 6.5x55 calibre you will need Pilot No. 9

I do not own these Pilots.

I do own (don't ask) an AMP annealer.

If you want to buy those Pilots and send them (by which I mean get them to Bisley) and your cleaned and de-primed brass to me, I will happily anneal them for for you and return the brass.

I get to keep the Pilots (which are about £18 each).

Other than postage, I would only ever "charge" the cost of a Pilot I do not own. It appears you have been 'double unlucky" in your choice of calibre.

Just a thought.

 

[jcampbellsmith]

Purists will anneal after each firing - standby for alternate views.

For precision annealing you could do worse than the AMP annealer.

For .270 calibre you will need Pilot No. 14
For 6.5x55 calibre you will need Pilot No. 9

I do not own these Pilots.

I do own (don't ask) an AMP annealer.

If you want to buy those Pilots and send them (by which I mean get them to Bisley) and your cleaned and de-primed brass to me, I will happily anneal them for for you and return the brass.

I get to keep the Pilots (which are about £18 each).

Other than postage, I would only ever "charge" the cost of a Pilot I do not own. It appears you have been 'double unlucky" in your choice of calibre.

Just a thought.

You will also need the relevant shell holder. I did some 6.5 x 55 brass for a friend and he supplied a shell holder. I'm helping a 6.5 PRC shooter and I pick up his brass, pilot and shell holder and anneal it for him. I then return it to him.

NB - I do not provide an annealing service.

Regards
JCS

 

[Colonel Rimfire]

Depending on the caliber and reloads you can get quite a few reloads out of your brass, but the general rule of thumb is five cycles, then bin them.


You can make a simple tool out of a old paper clip, or piece of piano wire, simply straighten out the paper clip and put a very short 90 degree bend on it much like a hook. obviously make it short enough to fit through the case mouth!
with this tool rotate around the very base of the cartridge where the brass is at its thickest, if you feel a nick, bin it as cracks will appear at the base well before the outside of the case.

 

[Norfolk Deer Search]

I have found if you use quality brass, lapua, norma, RWS etc you usually get good value for money.

When i shot 6.5x55 i bought 100 new lapua cases i sold the rifle with 97 cases that had been loaded 10 times.

 

[User00040]

Depending on the caliber and reloads you can get quite a few reloads out of your brass, but the general rule of thumb is five cycles, then bin them.

No, the 'general rule of thumb' is that there isn't one.

 

[User00044]

How long is a piece of string?

If you need to ask this question, you need to do more research.

Whilst I appreciate that a forum is a place where questions should be asked and answered freely, reloading information (like load data) should not be spoon-fed to someone who can't be bothered to research.

Too many factors, quality of brass, how has it been stored/prepped/sized, how high pressure were the loads, what sizing dies were used, how much sizing was done, were they annealed (properly?), and what type of action you are using... etc.

Dead giveaway is cracks in neck or case head separation.

Happy to reccomend reading material.

I asked the same question a while back , more as a point of interest and received very few answers.
Signs such as loose primer pockets , imminent case separation and a failure to size correctly should be obvious to any reloader worth his salt .
As you've pointed out , there's a lot of variables .Surely there's no harm in asking the question, providing that any numbers given are taken as a possible and not a definite .