Block and tackle rigging diagram

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karamoja

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Hi, does anyone have a diagram for threading a block and tackle. I have a silverline re threaded which has tangled beyond belief and I can't for the life of me rethread it so it it works okay. It just tangles up in seconds?
Or is there a better system? The silver line works okay sometimes but seems poor for lifting fallow in the woods to quarter before extraction.
Best K
K
 
karamoja said:
Hi, does anyone have a diagram for threading a block and tackle. I have a silverline re threaded which has tangled beyond belief and I can't for the life of me rethread it so it it works okay. It just tangles up in seconds?
Or is there a better system? The silver line works okay sometimes but seems poor for lifting fallow in the woods to quarter before extraction.
Best K
K
Click to expand...
One has 4 sheathes, the other 3, start your standing end on the four then thread through.037BEBA4-59AA-4EB3-8B58-8611DF5BD13E.webp
 
Thanks for you help, it's threaded that way currently.
I used to have another different manufacturers but identical which never tangled or got messed up. I thought I had threaded it in a particular way. Maybe my imagination? This one seems to be in a mess if I just look at it. Is there a method of reeving which prevents this? Which is what I was thinking.
Or are there any other decent systems or self builds?
K
 
I just use braid, lengthen it to roughly where tree branch to leg will be then put a wrap of insulation tape around the bundle under each block, then fold into bum bag.
 
This picture might help.

1661080416489.png

Frankly it looks like very poor design, but what do you expect for about £6.

It is unbalanced and has more friction than necessary with four pulleys in one block. If instead they had put a becket on one block, just used three pulleys on each, it would be so so much better. And no more expensive.

Yes there are much better ways to do this. I have two, made up of marine ball bearing blocks , three pulleys on each, which I bought from a boat jumble for about £25 altogether.

One is extremely strong, large blocks. The other is tiny, lightweight, pocketable, using the same three pulley becketed blocks, but in the tiniest size.

Here is how to do that, properly.

Observe, the rope you haul on runs over the middle pulley. Perfectly balanced, Also because the two blocks are twisted by 90 degrees there is nothing trying to twist things about.

I also have a clamcleat mounted so that I can lock the rope after I have hauled up the load.
 
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Further, for the simplest lightest thing, for say roe, muntjac, even small fallow, a "handybilly" arrangement might be all you need. This gives you a 2:1 advantage. Using single pulley blocks. One becketed.

Like this.

1661082875123.webp

With triple pulley blocks, again one becketed, you have 6:1 advantage. Same as (in theory) your Silverline, but with one less pulley. Minus frictional losses. Which will be large in the Silverline. Ball or roller bearings really help here.
 
I found two fairly simple handling techniques help prevent tangling with those little units.

Always keep the hooks loaded /under tension when extended, and especially when extending or retracting.

Always store and carry them fully retracted.

Alan
 
Mike L said:
Frictional losses, are we still talking about pulling a deer up a tree or have we moved on to unloading a full ship at the quayside 😂
Click to expand...
It still matters. The more pulleys you have in the system the worse it gets. In the limit the friction can actually outweigh the mechanical advantage. So the theoretical 6:1 from the Silverline with seven plain pulleys running on rough axles might even be as little as 3:1 wild guess.

If you have say some dumbells you could even test it, say attach to 60 kilos, tie rope to 10 kilos. In a perfect world it would balance. But I bet you need much more than 10 kilos to start lifting the load. Loads more.
 
Sharpie said:
It still matters. The more pulleys you have in the system the worse it gets. In the limit the friction can actually outweigh the mechanical advantage. So the theoretical 6:1 from the Silverline with seven plain pulleys running on rough axles might even be as little as 3:1 wild guess.

If you have say some dumbells you could even test it, say attach to 60 kilos, tie rope to 10 kilos. In a perfect world it would balance. But I bet you need much more than 10 kilos to start lifting the load. Loads more.
Click to expand...

The technique for overcoming the friction there is similar to the solid wooden dead eye blocks, or the lorry drivers hitch.

More tension can be produced and maintained in the standing rope, but you tighten it by pulling the standing rope low bow string style, and then take up the slack in the blocks or hitch.

Alan
 
Mike L said:
Also, throw the crap silver line rope away and use 6mm braid, it doesn’t tangle.
Click to expand...
Ditto. Much easier on the hands than the horrid slippery nasty stuff.

308tikka said:
Buy from a chandler
Click to expand...
On my big 6:1 setup I use 11 strand 750 lb paracord, not the usual 550 lb stuff. Which is a perfect fit, it is maybe 5mm.

It doesn't need to be immensely strong, the rope only carries 1/6 of the total load. So in theory my cheap paracord might be good enough for up to 4,500 lbs before it yielded. Stretch doesn't much matter either, you only see 1/6th of it

Points to note: I have 6:1 purchase, meaning for every metre I lift, it takes six metres of rope. Plus what is taken up in the roving. Bought 50 feet. I hadn't thought it through. Giving me a lot less than eight feet of lift. Enough to prove the concept, but no more than that.

For my most used application, lifting stuff up into the loft, up to 20 feet, when I will be pulling up from inside the loft so now have 7:1 advantage, that needs more than 140 feet of rope. Sorry, can't afford pukka yacht stuff for that.

Instead I have a 62 metre (203 feet) roll hovering in my Amazon basket ready for next order. £22.

Drat, the forum software doesn't like my link, however I try, even as plain text. Amazon search for this should get you there:

750lb Reflective Paracord Rope 11 Strand 4mm , 31M / 62M / 152M Black / Blue / Grey / Purple / Orange, Parachute Cord with Reel, Strong Rope for Outdoor Survival Lanyard Bracelet Handle Wrap Keychain
 
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Alantoo said:
The technique for overcoming the friction there is similar to the solid wooden dead eye blocks, or the lorry drivers hitch.

More tension can be produced and maintained in the standing rope, but you tighten it by pulling the standing rope low bow string style, and then take up the slack in the blocks or hitch.

Alan
Click to expand...
All fine and dandy if you have something to hold the other end, maybe around a belaying pin, with a cabin boy to take up the slack whilst you are grimly trying to hold on having released the "bow string".

TBH there could be a lot to be said for simply using a long ratchet strap.
 
Sharpie said:
All fine and dandy if you have something to hold the other end, maybe around a belaying pin, with a cabin boy to take up the slack
Click to expand...
Bow string tensioning works on a dragged load or taut rope single handed, but obviously the load will just pendulum if used on a straight lift in free air...it was the issue you raised of friction on the sheaves relative to the ratio of load applied to the standing rope I was musing on.

Alan
 
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