What Mod? .223

My point was that if you have a large chamber and a close fitting bore the moderator will provide more suppression than a moderator wth a similar voume and a larger hole/bore.
It depends what you mean by "large chamber". I suspect that you are referring to the open chamber of a typical reflex design. This is what should be catching the majority of the muzzle blast, via a sort of internal muzzle brake. Preferably tightly toleranced and made from appropriate metal.

The baffle stack of such designs is mostly there to slow down the exit of the gases afterwards, once the bullet has left the far end of the mod. By which point it is of little relevance as to the fit between bullet and baffle, Elvis has left the building.
In your case a DPT 7mm baffle stack will be a tad quieter than the 30cal baffle stack you currently use, and the bullet will fit through it as the bore is approx 0.7mm smaller which is still 0.4mm larger than the .308 bullet.
Taking little account of the practical tolerancing of fitting some mod. onto some barrel thread, with whatever overhang of the baffle stack beyond that point. Might look like it works "on paper", probably will, but might not.

A small point, the majority of rifles have a right hand rifling twist. The majority of moderator threadings, as well as inserts, body parts etc. are also right handed. Thus the natural tendency of the combination is for the mod. or just bits of it, to work loose. Which they really can do. Catch it in time and tighten up again, fine. Otherwise it is a poor combination. From an engineering point of view.

But so many are used to RH twist barrels, how the wind lifts the bullet from the right, and drops it if from the left, as well as more esoteric stuff to do with Earth rotation, that it seems we are stuck with them. As are we with moderator parts and threads which go with the "tighty righty, loosie leftie" convention because otherwise some users might just ruin them, not realising the difference.
If you could cool you moderator it would provide more suppression too, maybe thats the next gen, finned mods ?
The time available to cool the gases is very small. Just as the properties of the metal from which the baffles are made is hugely different, in fact aluminium has one of the best combinations of specific heat capacity and thermal conductivity, but is pretty useless at withstanding hot gas erosion. Titanium is very poor on specific heat or thermal conductivity, but has its place, for some applications. Things like Inconel inserts are far superior, but probably not much relevant to us.

A practical mod. needs to be able to soak up the volume of gas, and heat, from the muzzle blast whilst releasing it back it back more slowly, and cooler. Meanwhile dissipating that heat through a good thermal pathway, the more mechanical barriers, threads, surface treatments etc. in-between the worse it gets. Hence fully welded, or 3D printed/sintered construction is good for that. Wrapping them up in insulating sleeves is not, a very bad idea, unless for some over-riding operational reason. Unless you simply want to shoot one, two or three shots, in a hunting scenario.

You can cool a moderator for a few shots by e.g. putting water, or some other fluid, maybe in gel form, inside, for a few shots. This might actually have some relevance for hunters.

Just as "first round pop" is easily explained. Products of deflagration of the powder are not fully combusted, they still have excess energy waiting to react with the oxygen in the atmosphere, either inside a mod. full of air, or outside a muzzle device, as in muzzle flash. Just as say a light coating of preservative oil inside might also do.
 
It depends what you mean by "large chamber". I suspect that you are referring to the open chamber of a typical reflex design. This is what should be catching the majority of the muzzle blast, via a sort of internal muzzle brake. Preferably tightly toleranced and made from appropriate metal.
<snip>

I meant large chamber as the internal volume inclusive of the reflex and the space around the baffles.

The baffle stack of such designs is mostly there to slow down the exit of the gases afterwards, once the bullet has left the far end of the mod. By which point it is of little relevance as to the fit between bullet and baffle, Elvis has left the building.
<snip>

The hot gas is actually travelling faster than the bullet as soon as the bullet leaves the confines to the barrel, yes the baffles are designed slow down the (expanding) gasses and the slowing would be greatly inhibited if there was no hole for the gas to exit from, but as we do need to let the bullet out the smaller the hole the better. Baffles also attempt to direct the expanding gas back into the moderators internal space, the nirvana of baffle design :)

The smaller the hole, the larger the volume the better.
 
The hot gas is actually travelling faster than the bullet as soon as the bullet leaves the confines to the barrel, yes the baffles are designed slow down the (expanding) gasses and the slowing would be greatly inhibited if there was no hole for the gas to exit from, but as we do need to let the bullet out the smaller the hole the better. Baffles also attempt to direct the expanding gas back into the moderators internal space, the nirvana of baffle design :)
Exactly. The tighter the clearance, the better the efficiency, as less energy (noise) immediately bypasses containment and the residual pressure is released somewhat more slowly.
 
You'd get a 30cal bullet through that ...
The 7mm mod end-cap hole measures 8.2mm.
The end-cap hole on my S & L 30 cal moderator measures 9.4mm
A picture of the DPT .223 baffles after a few hundred rounds would be frightening!
There you go!
 
The 7mm mod end-cap hole measures 8.2mm.
The end-cap hole on my S & L 30 cal moderator measures 9.4mm
A picture of the DPT .223 baffles after a few hundred rounds would be frightening!
There you go!

A 223 moderator with 1 30 cal bullet through it would be really scary ... (I know you didn't mean that :) )

Here's my DPT 20cal moderator off my 22-250 which has a couple of hundred rounds through it maybe more ... I also use it on my 22LR and has had several hundred, four or five i'd guess in addition to the 22-250
The first baffles gets rotated about after 40 rounds (ish) and I tend to clean it one or twice a year (coming up to need a clean soon i'd say).
They are starting to look a little scrappy/gas cut but they are still functional, maybe next year i will get another baffle stack.
The end cap still looks good as does the stainless (first) baffle (which is 22cal), it's the first aluminium baffle that gets the damage.

DPT_20cal.webp
 
A 223 moderator with 1 30 cal bullet through it would be really scary ... (I know you didn't mean that :) )

Here's my DPT 20cal moderator off my 22-250 which has a couple of hundred rounds through it maybe more ... I also use it on my 22LR and has had several hundred, four or five i'd guess in addition to the 22-250
The first baffles gets rotated about after 40 rounds (ish) and I tend to clean it one or twice a year (coming up to need a clean soon i'd say).
They are starting to look a little scrappy/gas cut but they are still functional, maybe next year i will get another baffle stack.
The end cap still looks good as does the stainless (first) baffle (which is 22cal), it's the first aluminium baffle that gets the damage.
That's brand new compared to my 223 dpt.
Tried the 7mm DPT tonight on the 223, much quieter.
I'm wondering if using an oversized moderator with a lot of extra baffles might be just as quiet and last longer.
 
ASE Utra SL5 on mine going strong after 1000's of rounds. Nice and quiet with 223...no need for any hearing protection.
 
A 223 moderator with 1 30 cal bullet through it would be really scary ... (I know you didn't mean that :) )

Here's my DPT 20cal moderator off my 22-250
Hope I don't spoil DPT sales with this!
I will be buying another if spare baffles are going to be available for it!
 

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Interesting to see the inside of a well-used moderator, and why they should be regarded as consumables with a finite lifespan.
 
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Interesting to see the inside of a well-used moderator, and why they should be regarded as consumables with a finite lifespan.
Most use was with factory ammo with an overbarrell moderator, the body of which developed a pin hole and later burst.
For most of the time, I didn't have the clamps to disassemble, so over-cleaning was not the cause!
 
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I've been using Jaki titanium forest moderator on my 223. It is really fantastic! Small sized, light (250 g) and does good job on suppressing muzzle blast. I tried Ase Utras sl5i on my rifle and it felt a bit too heavy (335 - 345 g) for my taste.

I have no clue if it is possible to order these from Finland.
 
The 'hole' thrpough a 20cal DPT (and likely most others) is .256" which in modern money is a bawhair over 6.5mm, which offers a 0.47mm (185 thou) radial clearance on a .224/5.56 bullet.
The largerer the volume of the expansion chamber and the tighter the bore to the bullet the greater the suppression.

Physics not marketing should rule ...

If you could redirect all the hot expanding gasses (that have just shoved the bullet out of the barrel) back into the body of the moderator, cool them and reduce the pressure gently before allowing it to exit the moderators body the BANG would be reduced to a puffff
100% agree with you, i have a Riflecraft .17 Hornet on a .204 and a Riflecraft. 20cal on a .223,, both are very Quiet and Light.👍
 
Hope I don't spoil DPT sales with this!
I will be buying another if spare baffles are going to be available for it!

Jeezo - that's well burghard. How many shots is that ?
Do you use a stainless (first) baffle ?

Tried the 7mm DPT tonight on the 223, much quieter.
I'm wondering if using an oversized moderator with a lot of extra baffles might be just as quiet and last longer.

In theory, no and i'd guess that the majotity of your (blasted) 223 mod's bore was larger than 26mm2 .... although the more baffles you add, with the increase in captive volume you are providing then yes extra baffles = extra suppression.

I set up a DPT vertex mod once with a 30cal, 2 x 6mm, a 22cal and 3 x 20cal baffles (ie a 7 baffle 'cone' stack) which was pretty good, unwieldly for walking about but on the fox it was great.
 
Jeezo - that's well burghard. How many shots is that ?
Do you use a stainless (first) baffle ?
Not sure how many rounds through it, less than 200 homeloads since I ran out of Samson ammo, possibly 600 before that. With 9 baffles, people remarked on how quiet it was on the range.
No stainless baffle!
 
Hope I don't spoil DPT sales with this!
I will be buying another if spare baffles are going to be available for it!
If not, someone with a lathe and a drawing (Or something left to copy) should be able to turn out some more innocuous bits of metal. Even anodise them as well, to look the part. For not much money.
 
Not sure how many rounds through it, less than 200 homeloads since I ran out of Samson ammo, possibly 600 before that. With 9 baffles, people remarked on how quiet it was on the range.
No stainless baffle!

Interesting, it's been well eaten, I wonder if a stainless first baffle would dissapate the heat and reduce the 'burn' ...
I've only used mine in the field although I have done some gong shooting where I tend to limit that to 5 shots in a string with a cooling off period inbetween ....
9 baffles :)
 
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