Utectok
Well-Known Member
Just poor masking maybe?
Caveat Emptor - Tikka T3X Lite Wideland Veil Rifles
- Thread starter wytonpjs
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- gmk tikka t3x wideland veil
C h r i s
Well-Known Member
Why would you want to.....? Same reason the outer metal is coated, anti corrosion, and that's a big plus in my book - living in this damp isle. The coating is very thin so doesn't impede the bolt throw.
It’s why Youngs 303 (“gun oil”) was invented, along with a meaningful post use rifle drying & cleaning regime!
That many shooters are too darn lazy and/or unconcerned to even remove a moderator after a day’s use in the rain tells me everything I need to know about why there are so many bad experiences with firearms reported on this site.
K
C h r i s
Well-Known Member
Agree, although I've found that the only oils/greases that will stop a Tikka stainless barrel or action from rusting when brought into a warm house from the damp cold outside are the likes of Renaissance wax or XCP. Cerakote helps, especially when its 2am and don't have time to do a full dry, but nothing is perfect, it all wears away sooner or later.
painting house windows and doors , do we start leaving the closing edges? Cera is real tough but really thin and incredibly tough , its not like regular paint ! High temperature baked on finish , i may stand corrected but i seem to remember the baking process and higher temperature are what actually gives it its toughness and durability
proper Parkerizing is better ( i have firearms done in both) but i dont think any in the UK still do it? But ceracoat is about the nearest thing and very popular with the worlds military for good reason
Take a look at the abrasive test - basically a grinding disc is applied against the ceramic cerakoted surface. Cerakote provides a very hard low-friction surface that is microns thick. As to why it’s important to me, the base metal is stainless steel and the contrast between the pleasing Cerakoted Bronze and the bare stainless steel is significant. I fully accept that this is a first-world problem as the base metal is stainless but NIC see this as a manufacturing issue with their product incorrectly applied - unfortunately they will not say that publicly and as their product is wholly dependent upon how the manufacture applies it, the results are beyond their control. It’s more the principle of being fobbed off by patently incorrect GMK that really grips me and sadly colours my view of Sako too. I have been a lifetime user of their products but like other companies, their customer service skills appear to have nose-dived. This is not an isolated instance, or a Friday lemon - it does seem to be a consistent feature of this particular rifle.
HonestJohn
Well-Known Member
I suppose the trouble is 'can of worms' caused by social media.
ie. if they agreed to take it back for re-coating, and you made the world aware of it, suddenly 30,000 tikka's are being sent back for re-coating by the owners because they feel they have a valid excuse for a bit of free restoration on their hunting rifle.
moreover, it begs the question to Sako/Tikka, should there be a product recall? if so, we're talking millions of rifles.
as said, can of worms..to them, it's a better deal to lose you as a customer.
just a business decision really
nun_hunter
Well-Known Member
There are many different variants of Cerakote and their "toughness". I think this is just a case of your expectations not being the same as Sako's and from reading the replies there are plenty of people who side with Sako and some who side with you.
Personally I would expect it to wear on areas of friction based on prior experiences of metals with various coatings rubbing against each other.
A large tolerance will soon wear out , while a tighter tolerance will wear in ! The English hand made shotgun is a classic example , regards forend removal . The maker gives it a nice tight tolerance so it has a long life , the user might well be a hedge fund manager though and only uses their digits for computer key pads and such? He struggles to remove it, So he sends it back for adjustment ! Suspension joints on vehicles etc etc . Just after being coated the sako extractor pin ( that horseshoe type device , that rides under the bolt) wasn't rising just as fast as i worked the bolt " reliably on my own Sako. it took more than a spray of oil ( i polished it with some 800 / 1000 grit paper) worked fine ever since ( this stuff is thin )
if you expect something , its wise and ethical to tell the client at the point they are buying . I practice this a lot selling knives
200 cycles? You must have very low expectations of a coating….especially Cerakote.
For the revenue made on the 1 million+ T3’s or whatever it was…I would expect them to sort the rifles complained about, they would not need a full recall as some may be happy to plod on with their poor coating. It would go a long way to keeping future customers and I would be willing to bet the US customer would be more particular about this than the U.K. customers (and they sell a hell of a lot more in the US)
Regards,
Gixer
I'm not sure that's a fair comparison - doors and windows don't actually bear on the frame, or shouldn't. They tend to jam if they do! So you can get away with painting them.
I think the better comparison would be something like the pistons of an engine or a bike chain.
yet those are the bits that make the door bind in its casing when they swell or warp and joints expand ! ( used to be in the job a fair while actually ) ideally of course your correct atmospherically your not unless you are in a very dry area and managed to find 50 year air aged quality timber . Ours are very good mahogany and its normally june before we can safely open the two sets of west facing French doors.
On my rifles I prefer not to have any paint on the metal moving parts. Cerakote is a paint nothing else, a polymer that contains some ceramic powder. Rub against a stone and it is scratched. To apply paint properly to say a bolt, one would need to key the surface, who would want their lovely surface quality of a bolt and raceway sand blasted? I'd say the sooner the paint comes off the bolt and internals the better.
edi
edi
Soda blast not sand blast , entirely different ! Cera holds lubricant very much better than bare steel BTW . rub anything against bare steel with stones and it will scratch up .
I actually have two well used firearms correctly applied by two different contractors and i have to say this is very inaccurate compared to my findings . Heck one is a ten bore used weekly on the saltings for a good few YEARS , yet it looks pretty much perfect . Its actually in the classified adverts as i have quit wildfowling
I have nothing against Cerakote on the outside of a rifle/gun. It is just not the right thing for moving metal surfaces / bearing surfaces. Why would you ceramic coat moving surfaces. That's how you make sandpaper... glue ceramic powder on a surface. I know some add Teflon to the paint to reduce friction. Still I am not convinced.
edi
Until it’s worn away by friction! If you’re gonna adhere to this philosophy go with the blasting of your choice as a carrier of lubricant.
K
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