Gun Cabinet Placement

[TheDeerWalker]

Hi All, I have emailed my FEO but not heard back for a while, so thought I'd try and get ahead of the curve and ask in here!

I'm applying for my first FAC, and with that means getting my very first gun cabinet. I have been reading up about the placement of these, and approiate fixing methods. My house is an old granite wall bugalow, but the inside is stud framed and insulated and the floor is suspended so wooden, this is probably a stupid question but where and how am I best attaching the cabinet?

It says to attach to solid walls, I orginally was thinking of finding the stud on an external wall and pumping two 3 inch coach bolts into that and then using some heavy drywall fixings for the other mounting points. I was assured that would fail a visit from the FEO. Given the wall studs are 4x2s not sure about going directly into the stone wall behind that, and can't be removing plasterboard (partner isn't happy with the "ugly" cabinet in her spare bedroom as it is)

Almost 100% sure I'm not the only person in this situation, and probably just overthinking it! Any suggestions from people that have the same sort of set up?

Cheers

 

[VSS]

Hi All, I have emailed my FEO but not heard back for a while, so thought I'd try and get ahead of the curve and ask in here!

I'm applying for my first FAC, and with that means getting my very first gun cabinet. I have been reading up about the placement of these, and approiate fixing methods. My house is an old granite wall bugalow, but the inside is stud framed and insulated and the floor is suspended so wooden, this is probably a stupid question but where and how am I best attaching the cabinet?

It says to attach to solid walls, I orginally was thinking of finding the stud on an external wall and pumping two 3 inch coach bolts into that and then using some heavy drywall fixings for the other mounting points. I was assured that would fail a visit from the FEO. Given the wall studs are 4x2s not sure about going directly into the stone wall behind that, and can't be removing plasterboard (partner isn't happy with the "ugly" cabinet in her spare bedroom as it is)

Almost 100% sure I'm not the only person in this situation, and probably just overthinking it! Any suggestions from people that have the same sort of set up?

Cheers

Removing plasterboard would actually work rather well, and make the installation less ugly (so happy partner!) as it will almost be a flush fit.
Stand the cabinet against the drywall where you want it to go, and draw around it. Move the cabinet aside and carefully cut out the piece of plasterboard to match the shape of the cabinet. Now fit your cabinet into the rebate you've created, bolt it directly to the stone wall, and then neatly seal around the join between the plasterboard and the cabinet.

 

[Greenmist]

If its an old building, by all means bolt into the stone, but be prepared for rust due to the extremes of temperature. Trust me I know, putting thick osb between the cabinet and wall will help matters considerably.
There is a post somewhere that details fitting a cabinet to a stud wall,

 

[shakey jake]

be aware of cold bridging. you may hide the cabinet a bit but it will be covered in condensation in the winter.

 

[shakey jake]

greenmist was quicker than me

 

[Stalker62]

be aware of cold bridging.

God Bless Google...


What is a cold bridge? A cold bridge is an area in a building where a gap occurs in the insulation (for example: the roof/wall junction and the wall/floor junction). As these areas will be colder than the main areas there is a greater risk of condensation forming. With condensation comes the added problem of mould.

 

[TheDeerWalker]

Yeah I've done a fair amount of work to get he U-Values of the walls up, and still the house can be fairly chilly. So will try my best to find a solution that doesn't remove insulation... If possible

Assuming that the newer wooden houses have a similar issue, unless they all have concrete floors to attach to

 

[Greenmist]

For stud walls, I believe the following is looked upon favourably,

• Remove plaster board to expose battens
• Fit noggins or better still, steel plate with coach bolts to correspond with holes in cabinet
• Refit plaster board
• Fit cabinet and tighten nuts

Personally I couldn't be bothered to do the above and would just lay it flat and bolt to the floor

 

[timbrayford]

Two other considerations, your cabinet should not be easily observed by visitors and never discuss your security arrangements on social media!

 

[308tikka]

Chemical anchors are excellent if you have anywhere to put them.

If you have an old house and theres very old, dry and extremely hard oak, its not unheard of to fit to that.

 

[Pedro]

Just make the spare room into a gun room. I'm sure your partner wouldn't have any objections.

 

[addjunkie]

partner isn't happy with the "ugly" cabinet in her spare bedroom as it is)

easy fixed, will only cost you half the house!


Ona serious note. If you offer up cabinet. Mark holes. Remove cabinet. Chem fix in suitable size stud bar. Then use crush tubes over the stud bar to set the spacing between the plaster board surface and the stone. Then fit cabinet, use nyloc nuts, trim to length.
You can also get expanding rubber floor fixings. Basically a bolt with a chunk of rubber on the end to get a good fix to a suspended floor, often used for fitting money safes

 

[gixer1]

I’m confused as to how some people are told “this will almost certainly fail inspection”…..

Coach screws wound into studs or structural timber will withstand someone hanging off the cabinet…I don’t know who in the police force keeps coming up with the nonsense about these not being suitable as it’s part of the structure of the building.

I know of several cabinets mounted to the stud framing and floor and it would take significant force to remove them.

Regards,
Gixer

 

[TheDeerWalker]

I’m confused as to how some people are told “this will almost certainly fail inspection”…..

Coach screws wound into studs or structural timber will withstand someone hanging off the cabinet…I don’t know who in the police force keeps coming up with the nonsense about these not being suitable as it’s part of the structure of the building.

I know of several cabinets mounted to the stud framing and floor and it would take significant force to remove them.

Regards,
Gixer

This was my thoughts, they are 2x4s and in several spots will be bolted themselves to the granite block work, I honestly couldn't see the issue with an M12 bolt into them and then four into the floor - granted the whole thing is wooden but still you'd need to cut it all out and the same could be said for masonary fixing anyway.

I'll hopefully get a response back from the FEO soon, I outlined some options and asked their thoughts. I'll post on here the reply

 

[gixer1]

This was my thoughts, they are 2x4s and in several spots will be bolted themselves to the granite block work, I honestly couldn't see the issue with an M12 bolt into them and then four into the floor - granted the whole thing is wooden but still you'd need to cut it all out and the same could be said for masonary fixing anyway.

I'll hopefully get a response back from the FEO soon, I outlined some options and asked their thoughts. I'll post on here the reply

Bolt it in, make sure it’s secure and then invite them to look at it - if they have a complaint ask them to put it in writing so it can be reviewed.

Regards,
Gixer

 

[phildsmith69]

Bolt it to the wooden joists in wall and floor. This is how mine is attached and passed inspection without question.

 

[stubear]

When you’re attaching the bolts you can go for expansion bolts but personally (having used expansion bolts the first time and then resin the second) I would go with that bonding resin.

You just buy 10-12mm threaded bolt and then drill your holes 2mm bigger than the bolt, inject the resin and then twist the bolts in. It chemically cures and bonds to the stonework and it is ridiculously strong, far stronger than expansion bolts. I put one bolt in the wall then stood on it, and I weigh just over 100kg - it was solid as houses.

The only thing is you have to make sure of is you get all the dust out of the hole once you’ve drilled it. You want the resin to bond to the stone, not to the dust!

Would definitely recommend them, they work great

 

[JTO]

A few years ago some villains took down a blockwork wall in Weymouth to steal a cabinet that belonged to a police officer's son. They couldn't get the ammo shelf door open, just as well because there was several thousand pounds in banknotes inside.

 

[Sellars]

This was my thoughts, they are 2x4s and in several spots will be bolted themselves to the granite block work, I honestly couldn't see the issue with an M12 bolt into them and then four into the floor - granted the whole thing is wooden but still you'd need to cut it all out and the same could be said for masonary fixing anyway.

I'll hopefully get a response back from the FEO soon, I outlined some options and asked their thoughts. I'll post on here the reply

I'd agree, many houses have timber framed structural walls and no masonry to bolt to. Cutting out the plasterboard and going back to solid masonry would create cold bridging and damp and cause problems. The correct size of coach bolts or screws into 2x4's will be strong enough. M12 is probably too big and larger that the usual predrilled holes in cabinets and could also split the 50mm timber stud. I'd stick with screws of a diameter to suit the predrilled holes in the cabinet. One thing the police look for around here is that the cabinet should be flush to the wall with no gaps a crow bar could be used to jemmy behind the cabinet and look for skirting to be cut out to allow a neat fit, or a backboard the same thickness as the skirting. Regarding the earlier comment about the cabinet looking unsightly, depending on the room layout and space, you could build a cupboard around the cabinet, stud and plasterboard then you have somewhere to store other stuff and the cabinet is not visible. I did this and put a 5 lever lock on the cupboard door, my cabinet is fixed to a timber floor and an internal stud wall and has passed several inspections.

 

[hogey]

I’m confused as to how some people are told “this will almost certainly fail inspection”…..

Coach screws wound into studs or structural timber will withstand someone hanging off the cabinet…I don’t know who in the police force keeps coming up with the nonsense about these not being suitable as it’s part of the structure of the building.

I know of several cabinets mounted to the stud framing and floor and it would take significant force to remove them.

Regards,
Gixer

I have 4 cabinets bolted to the wood joists in my loft with coach bolts .No problem on inspection.Cabinets recessed behind plaster board and only doors visible .Cabinets insulated and small heaters inside