Blade sharpening

[Deermanagement]

Used a Buck 278 alpha hunter folding knife for donkey's years which was ok, well made but not the sharpest of blades. Bought an Outdoor Edge folder a few years ago but never used it until last year. Big difference, the OE held a good edge and was always sharp. Maybe a finer blade made from 8Cr3Mov as compared to the Buck's 420HC blade but the Outdoor knife's blade lock has failed, probably lost a bit of spring steel that creates tension to hold the lock in place. So I've had to go back to the Buck and try and improve the edge. I spent many years associated with sharpening tools, having been a qualified toolmaker then mechanical design engineer who's worked on shear tools cutting steel up to 7.5mm thick, so I'm no snowflake. But hell, someone explain why I can't get a decent edge on the Buck with an included edge angle of around 25 degrees, somewhere around the recommended angle for 420HC? Go any finer and my edge starts to break down, so unless someone can give me a little hope, I either buy a new blade or continue to hack my way into the Sika and Muntjac.

Btw... should I go and buy a new blade, I was thinking of the Outdoor edge swingblade with AUS-8 steel. Any recommendations for this or real life reviews?

 

[Mungo]

You clearly have far more knowledge and experience than I do. However, the one thing I can contribute is that I’ve found any angle of more than about 22 degrees very frustrating when used as a deer knife. It works, but exactly as you describe, you end up ‘hacking’ at it.

 

[Free range rob]

I was thinking very similiar, in experience and personal preference.
I use from 17 -20 degree maximum, any more and the edge just doesn’t last, but agree different steels hold sharpness differently, also a lot will depend on the hardening process the steel has indertaken

 

[Shootgun]

I sharpen my Eka swingblade at 20 degrees and you can shave with it, same the Emberleaf.

 

[CBH Australia]

I would expect the Buck to be decent.
I think some stuff is now made in China so QC may be slipping.

Don't hack through your deer maybe consider another knife. I maybe have too many but they are tools and good tools make the job easier.

 

[FISH BOY]

Sharpen all mine to 25 degrees as I find it the perfect balance between sharpness, edge retention and longevity.

Have an EKA swing blade and EKA no9 - found the steel very hard, both are very sharp and hold there edges for ages.

Have a look at the EKA No9 - it’s a lovely shaped blade - if it was on the swing blade I probably wouldn’t own another knife.

 

[finnbear270]

I would bet it would come back from Longstrider with a pro edge.

 

[Utectok]

I’ve never had a problem using a warthog v2 followed by a few swipes of a lanskey pocket ceramic sharpener

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[Hook'N'Bullet]

420HC is a soft enough steel but that also means you can sharpen it pretty quickly. You should be able to get it razor sharp as a result. You probably already know but you need to create a bur on the opposite edge.

What are you using to sharpen it?

 

[Deermanagement]

420HC is a soft enough steel but that also means you can sharpen it pretty quickly. You should be able to get it razor sharp as a result. You probably already know but you need to create a bur on the opposite edge.

What are you using to sharpen it?

I've used an oil stone, different grades on each side, and just finish with an old leather belt as a strop. Don't have a problem with any other knike. The Buck was bought in the US in 2008 so should have been genuine US. It does sharpen quickly and yes it is relatively soft, I'd say no more than 56 rockwell C. Because it's on the soft side you wouldn't expect the edge to chip so easily either.

 

[Longstrider]

Put a decent convex secondary on it and strop it to a polished finish and it will s-l-i-c-e through meat like never before. It's what I do with my own Buck knives (and the rest ) If you don't let it become too dull before giving it some attention, a good stropping will then bring the edge back to life each time it needs it for a very long time.
420HC is a forgiving steel so re-sharpening is an easy task. OK it doesn't hold an edge like many of the fancier steels but that is what makes it easier to sharpen. Run a hone over a properly heat treated piece of 420HC and the same again in something like ZDP189 or S11V and you soon realise the difference. Don't even get me started on REX121 !

 

[Bowland blades]

Impossible to say what is wrong, i suspect its not raising the burr or your struggling to remove it fully. Its not to do with the actual angle itself , if the steel can support the burr you can sharpen a knife just on one side ( like a chisel ) and it will get sharp . Wild guess is your not keeping one angle on each side top to bottom ?

 

[Longstrider]

For Sale: - Knife Sharpening/ Regrinding service

I offer a sharpening service for any plain edged (non serrated) edge tools. Knives can be sharpened or reground to remove edge damage. Costs vary with the work to be done but are kept as reasonable as possible. Knives can be posted or dropped off and collected from me near Wellingborough...

www.thestalkingdirectory.co.uk

Just sayin'

 

[Deermanagement]

Eka swingblade with 12c27 steel arrived yesterday. Feels good in the hand, should be a more simple and hence more reliable knife than the outdoor edge folder that I liked until part of the lock for the blade broke off. The knife feels solid and well made so thanks to guys who made the suggestion. Bought from Gearfreak £63.60 delivered so a good saving on some other stockists at over £80 with delivery.

 

[Free range rob]

Eka swingblade with 12c27 steel arrived yesterday. Feels good in the hand, should be a more simple and hence more reliable knife than the outdoor edge folder that I liked until part of the lock for the blade broke off. The knife feels solid and well made so thanks to guys who made the suggestion. Bought from Gearfreak £63.60 delivered so a good saving on some other stockists at over £80 with delivery.

I’ve got one and rarely use it to be fair, pain in arse to sharpen and clean.

 

[Overlay]

'

I’ve got one and rarely use it to be fair, pain in arse to sharpen and clean.

I’ve been using one for the atlas, and legs on fallow it now needs a decent strop up or a sharp, as it’s a tad blunt I’m not good on scandi grinds or others and only have any success on flat grind, it’s a lovely hard going working Bit of kit but I am a bit worried it might end up in the “another buggered up knive draw).

 

[Free range rob]

'

I’ve been using one for the atlas, and legs on fallow it now needs a decent strop up or a sharp, as it’s a tad blunt I’m not good on scandi grinds or others and only have any success on flat grind, it’s a lovely hard going working Bit of kit but I am a bit worried it might end up in the “another buggered up knive draw).

We all have a few like that I reckon, hence I love the mora’s.
I tend to keep a few of my favourite ones sharp now and that’s it

 

[Bowland blades]

'

I’ve been using one for the atlas, and legs on fallow it now needs a decent strop up or a sharp, as it’s a tad blunt I’m not good on scandi grinds or others and only have any success on flat grind, it’s a lovely hard going working Bit of kit but I am a bit worried it might end up in the “another buggered up knive draw).

Most struggle when they dont just follow the single bevel each side on a scandi and instead try and create another small bevel, it rarely works out . Scandi are really for green wood and splitting / battoning firewood etc .
Take heads n slots off with a cheap larder knife , no need to take them off with your stalking knife you use for the bleed and gralloch etc .

 

[The Singing Stalker]

Can’t help with the first, but for the second… if you get a swing blade, look to get one that can be taken apart, otherwise they are a sod to clean.

 

[Lancaster]

Used a Buck 278 alpha hunter folding knife for donkey's years which was ok, well made but not the sharpest of blades. Bought an Outdoor Edge folder a few years ago but never used it until last year. Big difference, the OE held a good edge and was always sharp. Maybe a finer blade made from 8Cr3Mov as compared to the Buck's 420HC blade but the Outdoor knife's blade lock has failed, probably lost a bit of spring steel that creates tension to hold the lock in place. So I've had to go back to the Buck and try and improve the edge. I spent many years associated with sharpening tools, having been a qualified toolmaker then mechanical design engineer who's worked on shear tools cutting steel up to 7.5mm thick, so I'm no snowflake. But hell, someone explain why I can't get a decent edge on the Buck with an included edge angle of around 25 degrees, somewhere around the recommended angle for 420HC? Go any finer and my edge starts to break down, so unless someone can give me a little hope, I either buy a new blade or continue to hack my way into the Sika and Muntjac.

Btw... should I go and buy a new blade, I was thinking of the Outdoor edge swingblade with AUS-8 steel. Any recommendations for this or real life reviews?

Bit surprised by this, I have a Buck 105 fixed and can easily get an really keen edge after using the Ruixin Pro sharpener to set the bevel at 17°.
Okay, the edge dulls fairly quickly, but a steel and a strop gets it back on song.