Sako opti lock mounts

[sharper]

Evening all. I’m trying to settle something…I was speaking with someone who I genuinely trust and appreciate their opinion, on how to properly fit sako opti lock mounts onto a sako 85 rifle…they said to fit the front mount close to the breech and fully tighten the screw securing it to the action. I remember watching a YouTube vid somewhere that instructed to tap the front mount forward onto the rail/mount providing a solid friction fit and then to tighten the screw on the side. My question is, albeit a little vague and probably not well explained, which one is best !! I have to admit tapping the mount forwards into the rail giving a solid friction fit and tightening the screw providing extra/additional strength/securing points seems very logical, but this completely contradicts my friend’s opinion…please share !!

 

[Dunwaters]

You’re both wrong.
Position the scope loosely in the mounts and slide them into the bases. Push the rear base forward until the recoil pin is bearing against the receiver and tighten it. Make sure the forward mount is fully in the dovetail and position the scope to your liking.
Tighten the forward base and the scope rings.
You can now remove the scope and mounts and use the recoil pin on the rear one to reposition them back without losing zero.

 

[Dalua]

The way described in the instructions for mine (all bought/fitted >15years ago) is to push the rear base/ring forward snug up to the recoil pin and tighten. Then to fit the forward base so the rear of the base is level with the front of the ejection port, and then tighten it. Then pop the 'scope (with the plastic bits in place) in according to taste and tighten the rings down onto it.

There have been previous threads explaining the the official instructions changed to the 'tapping onto the dovetail' for the forward mount - but mine are all still fitted according the to old rules. I agree with Dunwater's findings about the reliable return to zero on removing/replacing in this configuration - though I've always checked zero after the doing so!

 

[paulbshooting]

I would fit something else. The hidden screws can come lose risking accuracy issues. Plenty of good better designed options out there

 

[Sako6.5x55]

 

[sharper]

I would fit something else. The hidden screws can come lose risking accuracy issues. Plenty of good better designed options out there

Iv had them come loose on my .25-06 previously ! What would you recommend…is it a case of fitting a picatinny rail ?

 

[paulbshooting]

Iv had them come loose on my .25-06 previously ! What would you recommend…is it a case of fitting a picatinny rail ?

I fitted a pica rail, Talley one I think, was a while ago. Been great with Warne and or Tier One rings for day scopes and NV.

 

[Sako6.5x55]

Iv had them come loose on my .25-06 previously ! What would you recommend…is it a case of fitting a picatinny rail ?

Every rifle in my cabinet is a Sako, .22LR, 223, 243, 2 - 6.5x55swede, .270, .284. All fitted with Optilock mounts all torqued to 5Nm (as recommended by Sako) and never in 40 years had one come loose. Maybe investing in a torque wrench/driver, is an easier/cheaper option than modifying the mounts.

 

[antsa]

I have six Sako rifles. Five with Optilock rings and bases and one with Optilock one-piece ring mounts. The rings and bases are all mounted according to the instructions in the packets and that mirror the method in the video above, except for one thing: Sako did not specify any torque values back then. Never had an issue with these.

Around 2020 the instructions changed. The method for the rear mounts was the same but for the front mount it is recommended that they are pushed forward on the dovetail as far as possible. Also specific torques for all screws are given.

For ring mounts the rear one is also mounted as above while the forward one is to be placed "about" halfway along the dovetail.

As I said, all of my two-piece mounts are done as per the old method but tightened to the now-recommended torques.

All a bit confusing but that's not very surprising when it comes to Sako!

Cheers

 

[sharper]

I have six Sako rifles. Five with Optilock rings and bases and one with Optilock one-piece ring mounts. The rings and bases are all mounted according to the instructions in the packets and that mirror the method in the video above, except for one thing: Sako did not specify any torque values back then. Never had an issue with these.

Around 2020 the instructions changed. The method for the rear mounts was the same but for the front mount it is recommended that they are pushed forward on the dovetail as far as possible. Also specific torques for all screws are given.

For ring mounts the rear one is also mounted as above while the forward one is to be placed "about" halfway along the dovetail.

As I said, all of my two-piece mounts are done as per the old method but tightened to the now-recommended torques.

All a bit confusing but that's not very surprising when it comes to Sako!

Cheers

This is kind of my question…should that front mount be pushed up as a tight friction fit then nipped/torqued in place with the side screw or should it sit just past the ejection port (as it is currently) im not really sure what difference either would make, nor am I expecting a right/wrong answer, was more an itch to scratch ! Thank you for your answer though much appreciated