I turned it off , if it works for him great !Im not sure I would be trying to emulate that process too much, there’s a lot neater, easier and quicker demonstrations on YouTube to try and learn from.
I turned it off , if it works for him great !Im not sure I would be trying to emulate that process too much, there’s a lot neater, easier and quicker demonstrations on YouTube to try and learn from.
With a decent knife ( I use a Green River sheep skinner) you are able to open the gut cavity hide with deer on its back and then use a two handed grip on the knife handle and with a stout upwards cut you will split open the full brisket. I can do this on most of the largest sambar and those little deer would be easy to split.Right folks, I’m ashamed to say I’m probably into 3 figures now of deer shot,(that’s not a brag, just to giving an idea of scale) and I’m getting a little frustrated with how long the gralloch takes me.
Now I’m doing a ‘clean’ job and I think the standards get higher and higher with time but it’s probably taking me 15 minutes to do when really the field part should only take about 5.
I’ve done suspended grallochs and they’re pretty handy but usually there aren’t suitable trees so let’s assume that option is out.
Where I find the biggest wrestle is pulling the oesophagus and trachea through the chest once it’s been tied off and cut. And similarly, getting everything back out through the diaphragm - everything else is ‘easy’ enough.
Deer lying on its side, do you pull everything down through the oesophageal hiatus/hole in the diaphragm? Or remove the diaphragm completely?
At the neck, (once tied off and cut), I try and pull the trachea and oesophagus downwards to ‘loosen it’ but it still seems a fair pull from the lungs backwards to get stuff to shift.
Just wanting to see if there’s any experienced tricks I can pick up. The job is getting done without gut contamination but it would be nice to do it with more speed and less wrestling..
Cheers!
Yep until you have a bull moose at your feet, a bloke needs an arm length like LeBron has lol.Either reach up inside
Not a problem I ever anticipate having.Yep until you have a bull moose at your feet, a bloke needs an arm length like LeBron has lol.
I have stalked with several vets who do a lot of surgery. None are fast, all are absolutely meticulous and produce far cleaner, better presented carcasses than me.I go stalking with an ex surgeon, it's a lovely neat job but I've had breakfast and two brews by the time all the kit is laid out! I really wouldn't worry, I doubt in my experience you'll be able to find two people on here who do it the same, the guy who showed me my first gralloch said " if the bits are gone and your fingers still on, it's a good job"!
Totally agree but we stalk near glenluce, yep midges means speed is a need!!I have stalked with several vets who do a lot of surgery. None are fast, all are absolutely meticulous and produce far cleaner, better presented carcasses than me.
Unless the midges are bad, there’s nothing to be gained by trying to speed up.
My slow point now is the bladder in bigger animals. Still not worked out a totally efficient way that I’m happy with.
I used to stalk with one too. On a couple of occasions the only clue he left as to which was the front and which was the back end was the way the direction the hair was growing.I go stalking with an ex surgeon, it's a lovely neat job but I've had breakfast and two brews by the time all the kit is laid out! I really wouldn't worry, I doubt in my experience you'll be able to find two people on here who do it the same, the guy who showed me my first gralloch said " if the bits are gone and your fingers still on, it's a good job"!
So essentially you cut the urethra while freeing up the rectum?I pretty much always do suspended (snoot to hoop) but it works equally well on the ground.
Once you've opened up the chest / belly area reach behind the bladder and work as many pellets as you can back up the bowel and away from the anus. You then need to trim around the anus and withdraw a good amount out the "back end". You'll have to keep trimming around the inside of the pelvis as you withdraw. Keep the knife angled towards the pelvis as you work to avoid nicking the rectum. I use a pair of forceps to grip the anus and keep my fingers / gloves clean and you can pull the anus to one side or another as you trim to give you more room to work. On a red you want something like 4-6" or so clear. Tie off if you want (twine / cable tie).
When you then drop everything back inside (suspended) you need very, very little pressure to withdraw rectum, anus and bladder etc out through the inside of the pelvis. Bladder stays attached and as you aren't tugging and straining there is very little chance of spilling urine everywhere (and no lose pellets as you worked them all away from the anus).
Females I take everything out the same hole at the back still attached but males I tend to find the pizzle comes off quite easily when "notching" it out between the haunches but you can leave it attached. Just a big stinky lump to drag through the inside of the pelvis though so I tend to trim it off!So essentially you cut the urethra while freeing up the rectum?
I hear you but speed often matters ! Last light with rapidly failing light or getting another done before they couch down . Culling numbers ? You will certainly be pressed on speed and productivity and remaining lightI don’t think there’s any one right way - and as others have said, of the end result is clean, speed isn’t important.
For me, the real increase in efficiency came when I started freeing off as much of the material in the chest cavity as possible before starting to pull. Either reach up inside and blunt dissect everything, or open up the rib cage and cut. The looser all that is, the quicker.
My slow point now is the bladder in bigger animals. Still not worked out a totally efficient way that I’m happy with.
Myself my left hand thumb tendon , Had three Stags down not much sleep a couple of hours at most after a long drive up and more beasts to get onto . Holding the head out of the way on a slope and the knife got stuck going up the neck , gave it more pressure and it popped free and raced up the neck at high speed into my left hand . I omitted any sharpening notches on my knives from that point onwards as i think that is how the knife got stuck .For the small stuff I'd do a version of maximus otter's way - I don't always hang the carcass, the deer laying with its head down a decent bit of slope will get the bits moving in pretty much the same way.
As others have said, go as fast as you can while still being safe
I rushed a dead simple gralloch one time and for no good reason I ended up with a severed tendon in one of my fingers
It never healed properly
Go fast but don't rush
Thank god someone said it before meIm not sure I would be trying to emulate that process too much, there’s a lot neater, easier and quicker demonstrations on YouTube to try and learn from.
Another vote for Amazon's cut-resistant gloves. I find the standard size is perfect. I'll often discover I've nicked a nitrile glove in the course of the gralloch and didn't feel a thing (so check for nicks more often). Without them, I would have had a micro-cut or two, or worse. Note that they will reduce, but not prevent, more serious attempts to maim oneself.If working at speed, or tired, I strongly recommend cutproof gloves which are only a few quid on amazon. Buy a size larger for leas constriction under nitrile.