Need some inspiration, what shall I do with a sako 75

Acm

Well-Known Member
So I have a sako 75 in .243 varmint configuration, wooden stock, heavy barrel, generally good condition, the barrel hasn’t been looked after and it shows, however the rifle still shoots great.
I bought it from a good mate on a whim and didn’t need another stalking rifle, it’s just very hard to walk past a sako 75 at the right price. I’ve been using it for stalking and for now have it spitting hornady outfitter factory ammo with an 80grn mono into a good group at 100m, it’s been medicine on roe, and I’m excited to try them on fallow properly.
I already have a sako 6.5x55 in a McMillan stock but I fancy making somthing of this 75.
At the moment it’s a bit heavy, and a bit long with its 24 inch tube plus a jet z mod but I’m enjoying it and that length barrel does make the most of a .243.
I flit between a 6 creed and a fast twist .243, so, if it was yours, what would you build?

* try to resist saying “just use it” I’m already doing that 😂
 

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Sadly there is no one in the UK who will 'a' run a larger reamer into the existing chamber ("opening up") and/or 'b' reduce barrel diameter ("re-profiling"). You are therefore into a new barrel as a minimum.

I would start again and simply use the action as a basis for whatever chambering and stock type/profile floats your canoe.

K
 
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Depends on what else you have in the cabinet.. how about a short barrel 7-08?

if sticking with 6mm calibres a fast twist .243 would be my choice and stick with 24” but with a reflex mod
 
6mmBR with a 1:8 twist - stay with 24" barrel but get a light over barrel moderator, maybe get a barrel profile half way between a standard hunter & a heavy varmint too.

Or, same as above but stick with .243W.
 
Sadly there is no one in the UK who will 'a' run a larger reamer into the existing chamber ("opening up") and/or 'b' reduce barrel diameter ("re-profiling"). You are therefore into a new barrel as a minimum.

I would start again and simply use the action as a basis for whatever chambering and stock type/profile floats your canoe.

K
Mr K;
Is that a fact?

I tried (Got one more try) to get someone to run MY reamer into a shotgun style rifle barrel and I’d except all responsibility for reamer and barrel, but, no body will take the job on!
Is it too difficult?
I know it gets done in the USA.
Kb.
 
It is tempting! But I’d worry about losing velocity.
Would appreciate @Ronin & @BE Precision input too.

You probably will a tad. But who cares ?! 😀


Losing 4" will cost you 150fps. 5" around 200fps. Whats that at 200 yards ? 1" or so ?

You could prob make up for that by running a warm load. Better that than binning the barrel.

A same length creed would only be 100fps more anyway. You have a lovely gun in a lovely calibre.

Unless you're looking for an excuse to spend money. But 75s in classic calibres will be rarer than 6.5s IMO.....
 
Mr K;
Is that a fact?

I tried (Got one more try) to get someone to run MY reamer into a shotgun style rifle barrel and I’d except all responsibility for reamer and barrel, but, no body will take the job on!
Is it too difficult?
I know it gets done in the USA.
Kb.
Contributing factors to the stance adopted for both re-chambering and/or barrel re-profiling/fluting of factory installed units:

1. Challenges of unscrewing barrel from action without damage.
2. Risk of damage/ware to tooling.
3. Client displeasure with loss of accuracy due to barrel warping. (For want of a better term.)
4. Full order books, so Gunsmith is in a position to pick & choose most lucrative work/jobs. (Selling you a new barrel realises a mark-up that machine shop time alone does not!)

I could go on.

K
 
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Contributing factors to the stance adopted for both re-chambering and/or barrel re-profiling/fluting of factory installed units:

1. Challenges of unscrewing barrel from action without damage.
2. Risk of damage/ware to tooling.
3. Client displeasure with loss of accuracy due to barrel warping. (For want of a better term.)
4. Full order books, so Gunsmith is in a position to pick & choose most lucrative work/jobs. (Selling you a new barrel realises a mark-up that machine shop time alone does not!)

I could go on.

K
#1. No need to unscrew my shotgun style barrel.
#2. Reamer supplied so not much (If any) tooling to damage.
#3. No body would offer a guaranteed shooter.
#4. The only one of the 4 I agree with.
Thanks Mr. K.
 
#1. No need to unscrew my shotgun style barrel.
#2. Reamer supplied so not much (If any) tooling to damage.
#3. No body would offer a guaranteed shooter.
#4. The only one of the 4 I agree with.
Thanks Mr. K.
Supply of reamer I get, but all other barrel work considerations I stand by.

How do I know? Because no one will flute my Sako 75's heavy barrel.

K
 
You probably will a tad. But who cares ?! 😀


Losing 4" will cost you 150fps. 5" around 200fps. Whats that at 200 yards ? 1" or so ?

You could prob make up for that by running a warm load. Better that than binning the barrel.

A same length creed would only be 100fps more anyway. You have a lovely gun in a lovely calibre.

Unless you're looking for an excuse to spend money. But 75s in classic calibres will be rarer than 6.5s IMO.....

I don’t think I can afford to lose any speed with this load, it’s hornady outfitter factory copper cx, when I reload maybe it’ll be different, but this is just about getting me out to 300m.
 

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I had exactly the same quandary with exactly the same rifle ended up have it rebarreled in 6-284 it's now a foxes worst nightmare but with a slightly heavy head it would be great on roe or fallow
 
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