Opinals

Sol

Well-Known Member
I got gifted an engraved opinal so far Its did one gralloch and been used around the house plenty, I'm just wondering how many deer people typically get through before having to re-sharpen there blade?

Obviously the amount of bone hut, blade angle and how harsh your treating it matters but prior to this I had one of there carbon steel blades and it really couldn't keep its edge so I'm mildly surprised that a knife (surprisingly) should keep its edge.....
 
I've got one which I should think I've gralloched and processed half a dozen roe with. Doesn't need sharpening yet, and I'd expect it'll do another four or five before needing a light sharpen. It's not really a deer knife, but I sometimes forget to put the Mora in a pocket.
 
Seems like the stainless steel holds up much better, but yeah totally agree with carbon they dont hold up at all.
Not to mention unless your oiling that handle almost every time any sort of moisture in the wood just wrecks the blade asap.

Carbon steel + moisture = Rusty and shite looking blade.

If your gonna go for a nice little dainty looking blade you want it to look nice for years to come.

Admittedly mines is more for at home use but I always take it with me regardless there's always a moment of realization where we've forgot a knife and or the one we brought Is too dull or gets lost etc.
 
i have a couple with the stainless filleting blade,lost count of the fish ive filleted between a quick steel an strop bloody things still sharp enough to scare ya.
JB
 
  • Like
Reactions: Sol
I got gifted an engraved opinal so far Its did one gralloch and been used around the house plenty, I'm just wondering how many deer people typically get through before having to re-sharpen there blade?

Obviously the amount of bone hut, blade angle and how harsh your treating it matters but prior to this I had one of there carbon steel blades and it really couldn't keep its edge so I'm mildly surprised that a knife (surprisingly) should keep its edge...
Straight High Carbon like 1095 etc Have no extra elements , it sharpens really good with a fine grain and if the heat treat is good it can get very hard and takes a nice temper . Originally it was made for clock springs the traditional was was oil and brine creates a good few point higher harness . Its not as expensive to buy or work with ( heats up and transforms and you dump it in oil or Brine ) . Stainless is far more expensive the cheaper end cutlery grade stainless , is not going to reach as high a harness , it wont rust so fast and more importantly it wont stain . 1095 and its kin cutting citrus fruits or being left wet it will rust far faster and stains fast - so stainless has become . The first uses of " stainless was for Battle ship guns .and table cutlery where is was was cheaper than silver !!
There are endless different steels available today But choosing the right steel for purpose and then how the heat treatment was done , is paramount .
 
Straight High Carbon like 1095 etc Have no extra elements , it sharpens really good with a fine grain and if the heat treat is good it can get very hard and takes a nice temper . Originally it was made for clock springs the traditional was was oil and brine creates a good few point higher harness . Its not as expensive to buy or work with ( heats up and transforms and you dump it in oil or Brine ) . Stainless is far more expensive the cheaper end cutlery grade stainless , is not going to reach as high a harness , it wont rust so fast and more importantly it wont stain . 1095 and its kin cutting citrus fruits or being left wet it will rust far faster and stains fast - so stainless has become . The first uses of " stainless was for Battle ship guns .and table cutlery where is was was cheaper than silver !!
There are endless different steels available today But choosing the right steel for purpose and then how the heat treatment was done , is paramount .
I have made my last few blades from 1070 and 1080. They are easy to work and heat treat. They seem to be holding a good edge.
What is your opinion of these steals?
Tusker
 
I have made my last few blades from 1070 and 1080. They are easy to work and heat treat. They seem to be holding a good edge.
What is your opinion of these steals?
Tusker
they are just 1095 with a bit less Carbon 80CRV2 is also similar with additives ( slightly harder to heat treat ) . I lke 1095 the most in that bunch with a brine quench and a good temper , One " french patern chef " has sat on the breadboard here for many years . 1080crv is 1080 with chromium and vanadium added The Chromium and Vanadium doesn't really help much with rust in the mix just helps the grain structure and edge retention, its harder to convert tad hotter and more time without growing the grain
 
Gave one to my 8y old nephew as part of a bushcrafter pack of goodies this Christmas. Cheap, so if he looses it no dramas. My brother was not pleased 😂 the wee man has a habit of cutting himself. But he will learn.
 
Try a Buck 110
Yes ones my mate uses, so far only sharpened it once after this post but I admit Its dull as crud since I skinned some heads those things wreck knives in a moments notice!

Good knife to keep around I do use it on a daily basis (and use on deer in a pinch) but yeah I wouldn't really say Its ideal by any means.
 
Back
Top