Annealing

Hello , does anyone on here anneal their brass if so which annealer do you recommend please, are the propane ones ok ? Does anyone sell a reasonably priced induction type? The AMP ones look nice but hell they’re expensive, thanks .
I have a Reloader Brass Annealer with 6.5x55 and .300Win Mag carousels - basically unused. Why - soon thereafter (now years ago) with the assistance of a mate in the US, I built an induction annealers from a kit project (auto loader and trap door could be better but that is another story). The Reloader Brass Annealer sitting in a box - should sell it. DM if of interest...
 
I also use an “Ugly Annealer” very easy to setup and come with the bits for all except 50 bmg caliber.
They also sell very high quality trimmers for a great price, the primer tool is also ver good, I don’t have one of those
The top wheel is designed such that if you don’t use any of the inserts, it should work spot on for 50 BMG (if you can afford to shoot it 😂)
 
2 questions. The first makes me think that you don’t anneal yet and don’t know what you need to start. The second is which annealer.

If the first question is in fact what do you need to start, the answer is a domestic propane torch.

You don’t want the case head to get soft so hold it between your thumb and forefinger and rotate while heating only the neck and shoulder. When it gets hot drop it in a bucket of deep water. Don’t hold it too close to the flame. That’s it, you’re done.
 
I use the case holder from a Lee case trimmer kit in a cordless drill and a blow torch
How do you know when it’s done
I’ve seen this method on YouTube but it doesn’t seem to be “scientific”
I’m new to reloading and I’m learning a lot all the time
All my learning so far tells me it’s about accuracy and consistency- how do you ensure consistency in annealing with your method. Is there a way to know when it’s done can you over heat it and if so does this equate to over annealing or degradation of any kind.

Thanks in advance
 
How do you know when it’s done
I’ve seen this method on YouTube but it doesn’t seem to be “scientific”
I’m new to reloading and I’m learning a lot all the time
All my learning so far tells me it’s about accuracy and consistency- how do you ensure consistency in annealing with your method. Is there a way to know when it’s done can you over heat it and if so does this equate to over annealing or degradation of any kind.

Thanks in advance
You don't, it's suck it and see
IMHO, induction annealers are more likely to produce consistent results than gas burner annealers because the number of variables which can affect the final result are much reduced

Cheers

Bruce
 
Is there a way to know when it’s done can you over heat it and if so does this equate to over annealing or degradation of any kind.
@jamesey


There is a 'heat paste' you can use if you are using 'flames' to anneal. However you are still pretty much 'eye-balling' the brass to decide when it is 'cooked'.

Flames are better than nothing. Nothing is better than an AMP.😇
 
Thanks guys. Appreciate the responses
I went down the rabbit hole on annealing last night and the AMP is definitely the one BUT I don’t have that sort of dough to lay down for this. I’ll check out the AGS and hope when I get there it’s no where near the cost of the AMP. I did however watch a decent video showing the blow torch process and got an idea of time taken to anneal a case and the effects of over heating - the chap takes them and blow torches for varying lengths of time from 3 seconds to 10 seconds and then demonstrates the resultant neck tension and he kinda shows that so long as they aren’t nuked they retain necessary neck tension.
I Feel way more confident having a crack with a blow torch and concocting some sort of rig on my bench knowing that a second or two over when the brass glows orange isn’t going to destroy the case. And per @Stalker62 reply blow torch is better than not annealing at all so I’ll have a go and report back. Thanks again guys. I’m new here and already finding everyone very helpful.
 
By holding the case between your fingers, you cannot overheat the case head. It’s important that the rear of the case is not softened as this part is not fully supported by the chamber and bolt. Not fancy but it it works.
2 questions. The first makes me think that you don’t anneal yet and don’t know what you need to start. The second is which annealer.

If the first question is in fact what do you need to start, the answer is a domestic propane torch.

You don’t want the case head to get soft so hold it between your thumb and forefinger and rotate while heating only the neck and shoulder. When it gets hot drop it in a bucket of deep water. Don’t hold it too close to the flame. That’s it, you’re done.
 
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