Newly Acquired M590 223

Jh1986

Well-Known Member
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Morning all. I've just bought myself this M590 lefty in 223.

I'm not too sure in the history of these but I don't believe they came screw cut, and this one is with a 20-in barrel. I have no idea on The twist rate, and I'm getting mixed Google results on what they originally came with in terms of twist rate. The previous owner did say he hadn't had a barrel change but cannot attest to what happened to it prior to him.

Would this be stamped somewhere because I'm not seeing it?

Also, it has a slightly weak ejection, it does fully eject s but doesn't exactly fling the casing far. Ejection spring? Where are people getting spares for these things now?

It's a shame the barrel has been marked by the moderator, the moderator being some ungodly looking t8 thing with no identification in terms of cereal or anything. It's marked on fac as unknown brand unknown serial number. I've also read mixed reports of being able to change and unidentifiable moderator without a one for one, but I'm not sure on that one.

This is going to be my foxing rifle
 
590 had some problem with the ejector port and next model (595) fixed that. The 590/595 Tikka was/is a dedicated hunting rifle and therefore very unlikely barrel was shot out i.e. replaced. If rifle hits a dime at 80 m with V-Max 50/55 gr it will be 1:12 tw.
 
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you might be able to improve the ejection (slightly) by removing the ejector and cleaning out the hole and the spring. it might be dragging on years of oil and detritus. other than that GMK will probably have a bolt servicing kit that your local RFD account holder can order for you.
 
Nice rifle, I’ve just had my 590 rebarreled and have also bought a 695.

There should be a proof mark by the thread if it was done after the rifle was originally proofed post manufacture (before anyone says, yes, you don’t have to have a barrel proofed after threading but you do if you want to sell it). That said, I’m sure some say they’re not going to resell in order to avoid a proof fee and then resell anyway.

It won’t be stamped with a thread. My guess, nothing more, would be 1/2 unf or 14x1 as anything wider is unlikely to fit the sporter profile on a Tikka. If you have some vernier callipers, measure the O/D of the thread as that’ll narrow the options and the only thing you will be unsure of is the pitch.

Ejection is probably a weak spring or it being gummed up with old oil and dirt. I’d try soaking it with solvents and then oiling. The ejection on both of mine is strong, so it’s certainly not the case that it’s to be expected.

The difference with ejection on the 590 and 595 is the size of the port, larger on the 595 with some of the upper receiver milled away. It makes it easier to single feed the later rifle but I’ve never noticed a problem on my 590 with the cases failing to eject because they’re hitting the port and falling back in.
 
As above, standard barrel will be 1:12 twist from factory.

Re the ejection, Norman Clark Gunsmiths know all about how to fix that - they did mine & it’s like a new rifle 👍
 
Where are people getting spares for these things now?
Supply of spares is drying up. Sako has only some parts in stock, and only parts they've restocked are plastic and probably outsourced (this is based on parts order last year, and I don't believe Sako has made any new effort since they're busy with military side).

So if you find spares, buy another set for the future.
 
An excellent rifle but I seem to remember a potential safety issue with the 590 and 690 rifles resulting in a safety warning issued by the then importer JLS Arm of Wednesbury. I can't remember the full details but you should be wary of stripping the bolt as I seem to remember that it's possible to re-assemble it incorrectly that could result in it being unsafe. This was why these rifles underwent a slight redesign to produce the 595 and 695 models. Get a hold of the user manual from Tikka and you shouldn't go wrong if you follow the instructions.
 
Oh the good old days of moderator unknown make no number easy peasy to replace. Ungodly T8 things were at the time cutting edge and there’s probably many out there quietly doing the business.
 
Nice rifle, I’ve just had my 590 rebarreled and have also bought a 695.

There should be a proof mark by the thread if it was done after the rifle was originally proofed post manufacture (before anyone says, yes, you don’t have to have a barrel proofed after threading but you do if you want to sell it). That said, I’m sure some say they’re not going to resell in order to avoid a proof fee and then resell anyway.

It won’t be stamped with a thread. My guess, nothing more, would be 1/2 unf or 14x1 as anything wider is unlikely to fit the sporter profile on a Tikka. If you have some vernier callipers, measure the O/D of the thread as that’ll narrow the options and the only thing you will be unsure of is the pitch.

Ejection is probably a weak spring or it being gummed up with old oil and dirt. I’d try soaking it with solvents and then oiling. The ejection on both of mine is strong, so it’s certainly not the case that it’s to be expected.

The difference with ejection on the 590 and 595 is the size of the port, larger on the 595 with some of the upper receiver milled away. It makes it easier to single feed the later rifle but I’ve never noticed a problem on my 590 with the cases failing to eject because they’re hitting the port and falling back in.
I have this problem with my 590, cases very often fail to eject, no issue on my 595.
 
Oh the good old days of moderator unknown make no number easy peasy to replace. Ungodly T8 things were at the time cutting edge and there’s probably many out there quietly doing the business.

I’m not so sure, they always rotted out from the inside!
 
Well, it's been a while but I haven't wanted to fire it until I had the actual scope I was going to use (digital day/night).

Bought my DNT Zulus 5-20 on here, and got it all mounted with a picatinny rail I also had to order.

488e32b2-9f87-46bd-9d33-78f3399d8bc3-1_all_19728.webp


I'm not saying it particularly goes wit,h the traditional wooden stock, but I am more form over function (most of the time).

Anyway, it bloody works. Went and zeroed today and wow does this thing crack! Even the landowner popped over and mentioned how loud it was. I suppose I am in an open field rather than his woods, but it seemed louder than my 308.

Started at 25m, zeroed. Back to 50, zeroed. Back to 100m and zeroed again. Spot on.

The one shot zero feature is brilliant (it takes a freeze frame and you simply move the reticule to the impact).,

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I'm all ready for foxing, although this whale of a moderator needs to go but even then I can't imagine it'll do anything for the crack this thing makes.
 
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Morning all. I've just bought myself this M590 lefty in 223.

I'm not too sure in the history of these but I don't believe they came screw cut, and this one is with a 20-in barrel. I have no idea on The twist rate, and I'm getting mixed Google results on what they originally came with in terms of twist rate. The previous owner did say he hadn't had a barrel change but cannot attest to what happened to it prior to him.

Would this be stamped somewhere because I'm not seeing it?

Also, it has a slightly weak ejection, it does fully eject s but doesn't exactly fling the casing far. Ejection spring? Where are people getting spares for these things now?

It's a shame the barrel has been marked by the moderator, the moderator being some ungodly looking t8 thing with no identification in terms of cereal or anything. It's marked on fac as unknown brand unknown serial number. I've also read mixed reports of being able to change and unidentifiable moderator without a one for one, but I'm not sure on that one.

This is going to be my foxing rifle
A nice rifle , I've always liked the 590/595 series . As others have pointed out , check your ejector spring .

AB
 
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