quad sticks - Im probably just doing it wrong

DaveNeal

Well-Known Member
as per, really just checking what I think I'm doing wrong

quads, .308 - I seem to have a pivoting issue when firing and lose sight of the target ( for tracking / followup ) - am I looking to generate more of an artillery hold like using a springer or am I just not handling the recoil properly ?

I'm not particularly loose with my hold but I'm deffo not strangling the life out of it ( trying to avoid a pre flinch and dragging the shot away somewhere nasty )

ta
 
I think you may already be 'strangling it' if you're losing sight of the target on report. Having shot for far more years than I care to admit 'free-hand' the move to quad sticks was a ruddy revelation to me. Solidity 'on target' out to ranges I had previously thought as ridiculous, and a good after-shot view of the target in order to observe impact and effect. The very thought of 'making sure it doesn't move with the shot' may be why you are pulling away/flinching once the lead is airborne.

Try to set yourself in a solid but comfortable stance with the rifle on target without flexing or pushing the sticks. Squeeze slowly with the rifle firm in your shoulder and you should easily be able to watch the shot land. The old maxim of "Every time the gun goes off it should come as a surprise" tells you a lot about trigger pull and rifle-hold ;)
Unless another bean-launcher (.308-ist) comes along to dispel this of course. It's worked fine for me so far with my .270 :)

Damned shame you're not closer or I'd spend an hour or two down my zeroing range with you and see if I could help further.
 
as per, really just checking what I think I'm doing wrong

quads, .308 - I seem to have a pivoting issue when firing and lose sight of the target ( for tracking / followup ) - am I looking to generate more of an artillery hold like using a springer or am I just not handling the recoil properly ?

I'm not particularly loose with my hold but I'm deffo not strangling the life out of it ( trying to avoid a pre flinch and dragging the shot away somewhere nasty )

ta
Have you shot any deer off the quads yet, or is this a problem that's become apparent on paper targets?
 
What is the front rest like? Is it flat or a v like on BandQ diy jobs? I found when using sticks with a v I was bending the sticks to track the target and on firing the sticks would unload. Now on sticks with a flat front section I find I don’t load the sticks and get less bounce.
 
Have you shot any deer off the quads yet, or is this a problem that's become apparent on paper targets?
o yeah, munts from 30 to 130 yds, unsurprisingly they've all fallen on the spot with a 308. I'm kinda avoiding moving up to anything bigger coz I'm pretty sure they're not gonna go down straight away with one in the engine and I'll be scrabbling around trying to re-acquire or ( worse ) needing a follow up
 
What is the front rest like? Is it flat or a v like on BandQ diy jobs? I found when using sticks with a v I was bending the sticks to track the target and on firing the sticks would unload. Now on sticks with a flat front section I find I don’t load the sticks and get less bounce.
flat front, v rear. tikka ctr with the xl forestock - so about as flat as I get. hand on the forestock between thumb and finger for moving the front around, read v just behind the pommel of the hand grip.

by load the sticks, you mean lean into them or push on the front ? I try and keep my front arm as straight as possible and I thought I was loosey goosey in my shoulder mount but maybe I'm fooling my self
 
I think you may already be 'strangling it' if you're losing sight of the target on report. Having shot for far more years than I care to admit 'free-hand' the move to quad sticks was a ruddy revelation to me. Solidity 'on target' out to ranges I had previously thought as ridiculous, and a good after-shot view of the target in order to observe impact and effect. The very thought of 'making sure it doesn't move with the shot' may be why you are pulling away/flinching once the lead is airborne.

Try to set yourself in a solid but comfortable stance with the rifle on target without flexing or pushing the sticks. Squeeze slowly with the rifle firm in your shoulder and you should easily be able to watch the shot land. The old maxim of "Every time the gun goes off it should come as a surprise" tells you a lot about trigger pull and rifle-hold ;)
Unless another bean-launcher (.308-ist) comes along to dispel this of course. It's worked fine for me so far with my .270 :)

Damned shame you're not closer or I'd spend an hour or two down my zeroing range with you and see if I could help further.
tbh, it almost feels as though I should have a more solid 'stopper' behind the butt - I'm hardly scared of the recoil, I know it's a 308 and it's gonna move some, its just that it's pivoting and obv the scope then points skyward.

very generous of the coachin, fortunately the East Anglia BDS have some range days coming up at a place called Euston Estate so I'm just gonna concentrate on stick work there and see what the ladys and getns there can spot - the BDS head of development is usually there too, I'll try to snag him I think.

bean launcher - you sound like my son and his 6.5 needsmore .... :-)
 
Sounds like you may be putting tension on the sticks before you pull the trigger.

What weight bullets and are you using a mod?
150 ( norma white tail ) and a wildcat mod. also got one of those american butt savers/recoil pads.

just so I understand, under tension == pulling the sticks towards me ? if anything, it feels like I'm leaning into them coz I know the shove is coming

thanks
 
o yeah, munts from 30 to 130 yds, unsurprisingly they've all fallen on the spot with a 308. I'm kinda avoiding moving up to anything bigger coz I'm pretty sure they're not gonna go down straight away with one in the engine and I'll be scrabbling around trying to re-acquire or ( worse ) needing a follow up
Did you experience the same problem whether you were shooting live quarry or targets, or was it worse on one than the other?
 
read v just behind the pommel of the hand grip.
Could be your problem, i don’t know about anyone else but my rifle sits a couple of inches in on the rear rest with the V behind the sling stud giving maximum distance between the two “touching” points.
 
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150 ( norma white tail ) and a wildcat mod. also got one of those american butt savers/recoil pads.

just so I understand, under tension == pulling the sticks towards me ? if anything, it feels like I'm leaning into them coz I know the shove is coming

thanks
As described above, twisting the sticks tracking the target. When you pull the trigger you relax and the sticks move to their natural position.

It may just be the recoil to be honest, try a lighter load and see if you still get the issue. Firm hold on the fore stock, pulled into the shoulder but not murder tight.
 
flat front, v rear. tikka ctr with the xl forestock - so about as flat as I get. hand on the forestock between thumb and finger for moving the front around, read v just behind the pommel of the hand grip.

by load the sticks, you mean lean into them or push on the front ? I try and keep my front arm as straight as possible and I thought I was loosey goosey in my shoulder mount but maybe I'm fooling my self
With the yoke type front if it is in the middle then the rifle has somewhere to go, I personally don't buy in to this "tracking"
term as when a deer runs or gets up you could have missed, it could go down then get enough go to get up and run.
All this time you will be processing what to do! Where it runs and how far is the next thing, say 50 yds you might not have 50 yds of travel on your yoke. Now what? Then you will have to pivot the sticks to the deer then take your shot.
I like and use the twin v's as I don't like the yoke as you have to then add a way of keeping the rifle from moving L-R
Lots of times people use a V bag at the front to keep the rifle true for a zero, no different than using a bi-pod as that keeps the rifle dead centre with the stock making the adjustment.
 
It may just be the recoil to be honest, try a lighter load and see if you still get the issue. Firm hold on the fore stock, pulled into the shoulder but not murder tight.

As mentioned, try some lighter loads.

Always lost the sight picture with 150gr in my 30.06 - much better using 123gr loads.
 
flat front, v rear. tikka ctr with the xl forestock - so about as flat as I get. hand on the forestock between thumb and finger for moving the front around, read v just behind the pommel of the hand grip.

by load the sticks, you mean lean into them or push on the front ? I try and keep my front arm as straight as possible and I thought I was loosey goosey in my shoulder mount but maybe I'm fooling my self
Basically if the sticks are under pressure when you fire the pressure will release and move the rifle. I found with a front v I was putting pressure into the sticks when making fine adjustment to aim.
 
read v just behind the pommel of the hand grip
It's usually recommended to put the rear V as far back as possible, i.e. behind the rear sling stud. That way you get additional support by rear leg resting against your chest, and it lessens the angular movement of the rifle since the distance between supports is longer.

With the front, while it would be beneficial (for the angular movement) to put the contact point as far forward as possible, I'd say with 308 it's more important to find a position where you can comfortably hold the forend. At least if you strive for same POI in different positions.

Usually it's also recommended to be as straight as possible, i.e. not crouch onto the sticks. While this gives you tallest position (may matter sometimes), I don't find it ideal for the POI change between positions. Prefer somewhat crouched position, but I don't shoot straight / leaning back freehand neither. If you only shoot (and zero) of sticks you need to find repeatable position that works for you. If you shoot from different positions, you really need to test the POI also, and maybe adjust positions.
 
I find the whole thing is much more controlled with the v at the front and flat at the rear. (Depending on design, it might be easier to use by swapping the tops over.)

Front up against the sling stud, so you can hold the sling down into the v. Rear up against the rear sling stud - making an easy, controlled pan left/right.

I find the occasional 20+ shots with .22 makes a big difference to using sticks well. Paradoxically, I find the lack of recoil helps with technique and precision.
 
It's usually recommended to put the rear V as far back as possible, i.e. behind the rear sling stud. That way you get additional support by rear leg resting against your chest, and it lessens the angular movement of the rifle since the distance between supports is longer.

With the front, while it would be beneficial (for the angular movement) to put the contact point as far forward as possible, I'd say with 308 it's more important to find a position where you can comfortably hold the forend. At least if you strive for same POI in different positions.

Usually it's also recommended to be as straight as possible, i.e. not crouch onto the sticks. While this gives you tallest position (may matter sometimes), I don't find it ideal for the POI change between positions. Prefer somewhat crouched position, but I don't shoot straight / leaning back freehand neither. If you only shoot (and zero) of sticks you need to find repeatable position that works for you. If you shoot from different positions, you really need to test the POI also, and maybe adjust positions.
This ^^^^.
A .308 and a heavy bullet at short ranges can be snappy enough to lose your (narrow FOV) quarry in your sight picture - especially if on high magnification (like why?). If possible try a pal’s lighter chambered rifle, same sticks, same hold - I know I certainly see a difference between my .308 and 6.5x55 SE in terms of retaining the sight picture, especially off sticks.
🦊🦊
 
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