hik micro alpex 4k zeroing what Im I doing wrong

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timeandtide1

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just purchased a Alpex 4k which Im struggling to zero(100 yds). Rifle Tikka T3 .204, mounts opticlocks mounts. watched the online videos, so take the shot, up mag to14, freeze the screen, adjust X and Y, then save settings, take next shot POI has moved but move but more than it should ? can ajustments only be done at 3.5 mag? tryed to adjusting the old fashioned way by adjusting the Y from -62 to -65 think it would move POI by 1inch, it moved aprox 6 inchs. what am I doing wrong. thanks for any answers
 
When freezing frame did you freeze when the cross was on intended target then moved the cross to the poi? Doesn't have to be on 3.5 mag. It's easier when zoomed in.
 
evening
i have an Alpex 4K as well and its on my blaser witha .204 barrel. i have to say i had some issues but that was becuase i was not on an absolute dead rest when trying to adjust the POI. What i did was zero at 25 yards, then moved out to 50 yds and finally to 100 yds once i knoew my adjustments were true.
Good luck
B
 
The key is you need to ensure that the shot is good and you are on bags or a frame, secondly when you freeze you need to ensure the freeze is plum on centre of bull before you do the X/Y adjustment to the POI
 
yep started at 50 yards using bipod and sand bag under rear of rifle. increase mag to get dead centre when freeze frame, guess Im doing something wrong. I will check zero in morning and try phone app to adjust if needs fine tuning
thanks chaps
 
I tend to take the shot at 14 mag at 100 yds. Go to zeroing, scroll down and mag is automatically back to 3.5x so adjust that back to 14 mag then go to freeze and adjust x and y, turning the adjuster nice and slow so you can see each click. When adjusted to the poi, long press takes you back, another long press takes you to ‘save?’ Short press to save. Long presses until back to Home Screen. Repeat until perfect, probably three shots, done.
 
You can adjust the mag up to 28. Go onto the zero screen, adjust mag, take shot, freeze frame and make sure the cross hairs are on the point that you aimed, move cross hairs and make sure you "save co ordinates". Take another shot and this should be (ideally) where you aimed.

I got an Alpex a couple of weeks ago and zeroed at 150 yards on the .243. 5 shots and it was smack on. Hits the 3 inch gong at 200 yards all day long and accounted for 4 foxes out to 250 yards so a lucky start :)
 
Drew 3 said:
I tend to take the shot at 14 mag at 100 yds. Go to zeroing, scroll down and mag is automatically back to 3.5x so adjust that back to 14 mag then go to freeze and adjust x and y, turning the adjuster nice and slow so you can see each click. When adjusted to the poi, long press takes you back, another long press takes you to ‘save?’ Short press to save. Long presses until back to Home Screen. Repeat until perfect, probably three shots, done.
Click to expand...
Sounds like a lot of faffing about compared to just telling the app how many cm your last shot was high/low and left/right.
 
Tazz said:
The key is you need to ensure that the shot is good and you are on bags or a frame, secondly when you freeze you need to ensure the freeze is plum on centre of bull before you do the X/Y adjustment to the POI
Click to expand...
Spot on. When I got my Alpex (and I'd had some experience with HIK sights before) for the first time I had it zeroed with two shots. As Tazz says you need a rock-solid rest and make sure the central X and the reticle are perfectly placed.
 
It is possible to shoot and make the adjustments fully zoomed in which makes it much easier, if you can ensure the gun is completely stable. As others have said, easier still using the app.
 
old keeper said:
Spot on. When I got my Alpex (and I'd had some experience with HIK sights before) for the first time I had it zeroed with two shots. As Tazz says you need a rock-solid rest and make sure the central X and the reticle are perfectly placed.
Click to expand...
I have zeroed my mates Hikmicro Stellar 3.0 and I fire 3 shots then do the Freeze and then do the adjustment X/Y to the middle of the 3 shot group
 
I have to admit that trying to zero a HIK Thunder thermal scope was far more difficult than the Apex. These ancient eyes had difficulty reading the on-screen icons. However, I realised that the secret was to get the placement of the ret and cross absolutely dead on. Unless you do, each click of the X Y Coordinates moves the reticle too far.
 
Mike1979 said:
I personally dont think its any more faff then a "traditional" scope. Aim, shoot, adjust, go again.
Click to expand...
In general it isn't Mike, you can get pretty damn close.
When you are trying to adjust 1 click to get it bang on then the faff begins.
The single clicks trying to centre a one shot crosshair on the centre of group 1cm out at 100 mtrs is pretty hard.
You are a better man than me if you can tell me off the top of your head if the co-ordinates + or - , x or y
Are left, right up or down.
This would be easily solved just having them marked up as a traditional scope has.
 
I find it a PITA to zero also . I dont get why they could not work the same way as regular dials. I very near got rid , the instructions are terrible costs a fortune in ammo to get a sound zero optimised
 
Once you get the hang of it, it is the proverbial piece of, err pear.
Zoom in, Shoot at target, you may have to zoom in, then take a picture, move crosshairs to bullet hole, shoot again to check, then either same again to fine tune if necessary.
If that isn’t working, you’re doing something wrong.
Unfortunately, like most things, if you are not doing it regularly then you forget how. And with so many scopes out there now with so many different ways of zeroing, it can get confusing.
I am now man at Alpex, got 3 of the bloody things.
 
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