hik micro alpex 4k zeroing what Im I doing wrong

Hi, recently purchased a Hikmicro Alpex 50EL - with regard to zeroing with the Hikmicro Sight App does the menu button on the scope still have to be pressed to freeze the frame or can it be done in the app say on an iPad. Quite difficult to not move rifle when pushing button on scope, thanks, Bill
No just don’t need to touch the scope at all! Fire a group, take a ruler and measure the distance in cm from your zero (if you’re on paper). Go into the app and adjust, it’s really straightforward.
 
No just don’t need to touch the scope at all! Fire a group, take a ruler and measure the distance in cm from your zero (if you’re on paper). Go into the app and adjust, it’s really straightforward.
I'll have to try this. My experience is as @Bowland blades gone through a stack of ammo as it doesn't seem to hold zero. I think it is fitted correctly, optilocks on a Tikka 695. I find the freeze leads to a very fuzzy picture and it's hard to freeze exactly at the point of aim as th press to freeze shift the location. So I like the idea of adjusting by measuring with the app. I'm not that impressed with the image though, the 28 zoom is poor
 
I have to admit to doing it the old fashioned way.

Fire a group. Twiddle with the x and y adjustment ‘a bit’, fire again. Repeat until group is landing on the target.

Once I realised that x and y need to be adjusted the opposite way to what you do for a glass scope, and had a feel for the value of ‘a click’, it all went quickly.
 
I have to admit to doing it the old fashioned way.

Fire a group. Twiddle with the x and y adjustment ‘a bit’, fire again. Repeat until group is landing on the target.

Once I realised that x and y need to be adjusted the opposite way to what you do for a glass scope, and had a feel for the value of ‘a click’, it all went quickly.
I checked that function before starting saved a few rounds! And press save.
 
It literally could not be easier
Yes it’s sometimes not one shot zeroing but I usually go full magnification then freeze then adjust then save. Job jobbed
 
Thats the key bit. On these scopes you move the reticle to the hole whereas on traditional scopes we move the hole to the reticle
I think both are working the same way.

It’s just that on glass, the turrets are labelled in reverse so stupid people like me don’t get confused!

I have come across older German scopes labelled the other way.
 
I think both are working the same way.

It’s just that on glass, the turrets are labelled in reverse so stupid people like me don’t get confused!

I have come across older German scopes labelled the other way.

And all modern scopes have lettering and markings on the turrets that are printed with very poor quality printing that is generally unreadable without good optical instruments.
 
I think both are working the same way.

It’s just that on glass, the turrets are labelled in reverse so stupid people like me don’t get confused!

I have come across older German scopes labelled the other way.
Now you are confusing me and I had just got it straight in my head 😂
 
Another tip I read was before you go to zero the 1st time, go into the X & Y correction and make sure they are both set at Zero (0) then save
This will give you maximum crosshair adjustment
 
You must Chrono your rounds, the factory box data is no good for precision
Would suggest the majority of us dont have access to a chrono but appreciate your point. I bought the non lrf version to avoid the faffing. If its 150 yards away I aim right at it, 200 yards aim right at it, 250 aim about 4-6 inches high depending on rifle 👍

Minute of deer or fox is fine as you arent going to be using an Alpex for target shooting :)
 
Whenever I buy a NV device, it doesn't go anywhere near the rifle unit I fully understand it's operation, So for instance I would go into the zeroing menu and work out how to change profiles ( although I never use this function, 1 sight for 1 Rifle has always been my way ) then I will change the co-ordinates to the top right hand side of the screen, then save it, then switch the scope off and take the battery out, then refit the battery and switch it back on to check if it has saved correctly, I do this a few times to make sure I understand it's function correctly.

Once I understand all the menu functions, I then fit it to the rifle measure the scope height, centre of barrel to centre of scope and write it down, then when I have my other ballistic data such as bc and fps I enter this into a ballistic calculator to work out what the best MBPR is for the round I'm using, so for instance on my 22.250 using a 77gr TMK with a BC of 0.207 @3210fps with a scope height of 3.04 inches my first zero is 66 yards and 2nd is 232 yards 0.9 inches high @100 yards and MBPR of 266 yards based on 1.5 inch radius or 3 inch circle. so once zero'd at 66 yards I then check it at 232 yards to confirm my calculation are correct, I can then enter all the correct info into a ballistic solver on the Rifle scope, once this is done you can then range a random target at say 330 yards and check it to see if its correct< I always bore sight first to save wasting dozens of rounds, I went to help someone one day who managed to burn through 3 boxes of 22.250 rounds and still not have a zero.

But what I'm saying is make sure you fully understand the Scope even before you put it on the rifle, and before anyone says 77gr bullets in a 22.250 it has a 1:7 fast twist barrel ;)
 
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