Freelander 2 - what to look for?

Essexsussex

Well-Known Member
Morning all - off to look at one this morning, everything I read seems to suit what I need particularly the 140kg nose weight for towing on otherwise a modest vehicle.

it’s 2 owner, fsh and all that. Seems looked after.

What physically should I look for? Other than crawling underneath and seeing if it has rust or off road bangs, and checking the 4wd works?

It had a loose sub frame Bolts issue in a not a few years back which seems odd. Otherwise all research looks good.

Thanks
 
Best Land Rover made.Mines on 200k and has been reliable apart from rear differential problems twice.There is a specific kit for the repair that includes the offending bearing and gaskets(cheap)but the labour!!!!! it’s a known problem for years.
 
Check the service history to see that it has had the cam belt change done (70-120k miles IIRC) and when that’s done, it’s good practice to change the water pump too as they seem to fail around the 100k mark. You don’t say which model, engine or transmission. On the Auto, it should be smooth with no jerking. Listen for rear differential noise too - difficult to check the Haldex operation on a normal test drive. I had a 2011 SD4 HSE (only in auto in the UK) and loved it - lots of posts from me on here about it. A very capable on/off-road vehicle and well spec’d vehicle. Only recurring issues I had was with one half or the other of the front heated windscreen not working which I could never get to the bottom of - another use for the thermal spotter as long as you are below the temp threshold. The wheel arch rubbers were a faff but are easily replaced. If you do get it, join the FREEL2 forum where there is lots of good articles on common (and uncommon) issues. Only problem is it’s Euro5 not 6 so you have to pay CAZ charges.
 
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As said above, water pump check the service history, I would change the water pump, ensure the halves was serviced. Have a look at the water hoses, depending on the milage the can leak, change them for silicon ones and they will last forever. I dotthe garage to do it as I had a pipe leaking so saved me faffing around.
Like a typical Land Rover, there is good and bad. Mine has 148k on the clock and drive perfectly. Very little trouble. Check the boot and bonnet struts work ok, cheap to replace, and other that that, can’t think of anything because, nothing else has gone wrong with mine.
 
Main one to check is rear diff whine,rear drive shafts & the Haldex 4 wheel drive system is working.
On the test drive try to wheelspin it & you'll know if it's working.
Had mine since 2017 & only replaced a O2 lambada sensor.
Also the handbrake mechanism can seize if your over zealous with jet washing.
The claw that moves the pads on the cable can seize.
Bodywork wise rear door sills are prone to rust,my offside requires sorting.
Otherwise than that you'll not be disappointed with a FL2.
 
To add to the above, we’re on our second but only as we had to move the first one because it was manual & swmbo needed to get an auto due to a knee injury. Very reliable car, especially for a Land Rover!

Cam belt replacement was 10 years (or equivalent mileage) for earlier cars but then reduced to 7 years for later ones - don’t ask me why, it’s the same engine & belt! Check it’s been done & higher mileage cars may have required a second replacement by now.

When we got the auto, a 2013 SD4 HSE approved used from a main dealer, we had a water leak into the boot, dealer tried several times to find it but failed. Eventually tracked it down to the seal around the third brake light at the top of the tailgate. Seals not available from LR so it required a new light unit at their expense!

Service history as above & check MOT history to see if there is any indication of poor preventative work or generally not bothering with stuff till it’s broken or has to be replaced, eg damaged or worn tyres, worn brakes, etc coming up regularly. Also look at tyres, are they matching or Heinz 57? are they premium or budget, are they worn evenly?

While on tyres our first FL2 was on 17” rims & tyres lasted forever. The SD4 came on 19” rims & chewed through tyres like they were going out of fashion - sidewalls not deep enough flex properly so tyres scuffed on both edges. Swapped onto a set of 17” rims & problem solved!

Had to replace a radiator on the first one as it started to weep - can’t remember the details but it turns out it’s from a Volvo so no need to pay for genuine LR parts there… Many parts are common with Ford & Volvo so again, easy to sort OE parts or parts branded to either manufacturer & generally cheaper that way!

Low tone horn failed on the SD4 & it’s a pain to replace as you have to remove he whole front bumper assembly. While it’s off, assuming you have hem, check the wiring for he front parking sensors as it can & does wear through if not clipped in properly.

+1 for the FREEL2 forum, lots of useful stuff & people on there.

Would I have another one? - yes, definitely.
 
To add to the above, we’re on our second but only as we had to move the first one because it was manual & swmbo needed to get an auto due to a knee injury. Very reliable car, especially for a Land Rover!

Cam belt replacement was 10 years (or equivalent mileage) for earlier cars but then reduced to 7 years for later ones - don’t ask me why, it’s the same engine & belt! Check it’s been done & higher mileage cars may have required a second replacement by now.

When we got the auto, a 2013 SD4 HSE approved used from a main dealer, we had a water leak into the boot, dealer tried several times to find it but failed. Eventually tracked it down to the seal around the third brake light at the top of the tailgate. Seals not available from LR so it required a new light unit at their expense!

Service history as above & check MOT history to see if there is any indication of poor preventative work or generally not bothering with stuff till it’s broken or has to be replaced, eg damaged or worn tyres, worn brakes, etc coming up regularly. Also look at tyres, are they matching or Heinz 57? are they premium or budget, are they worn evenly?

While on tyres our first FL2 was on 17” rims & tyres lasted forever. The SD4 came on 19” rims & chewed through tyres like they were going out of fashion - sidewalks not deep enough. Swapped onto a set of 17” rims & problem solved!

Had to replace a radiator on the first one as it started to weep - can’t remember the details but it turns out it’s from a Volvo so no need to pay for genuine LR parts there…

Low tone horn failed on the SD4 & it’s a pain to replace as you have to remove he whole front bumper assembly. While it’s off, assuming you have hem, check the wiring for he front parking sensors as it can & does wear through if not clipped in properly.

+1 for the FREEL2 forum, lots of useful stuff & people on there.

Would I have another one? - yes, definitely.
I echo all the above - had the rear brake light water leak too😆 Thickers seals available off eBay :thumb:I stayed with the 19" rims but fitted Falken Wildpeak AT3s after have 4 General Grabbers go through sidewall damage. So good I had 2 sets on the FL2 and I drop my DS down from 20" rims to 189" and fitted the Falkens to that too.

Never had any issues with the horn but when you take the bumper off, you'll see that there's a lot of room to get a big winch in there ;)

ce5807ae-5b04-43f5-8d4a-3537a02dfa4d.jpegIMG_4115.jpeg

I did have an issue with the amount of off-road driving that I was doing in that I ripped the rear EGT sensor cable off several times and ended up putting it in a conduit and re-routing it ass best I could given the length of the wire. Something to think about after buying but I added a front sump plate and fuel tank protectors too. Do PM if you are thinking of going down that route. Same for adding CarPlay :thumb:
 
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I echo all the above - had the rear brake light water leak too😆 Thickers seals available off eBay :thumb:I stayed with the 19" rims but fitted Falken Wildpeak AT3s after have 4 General Grabbers go through sidewall damage. So good I had 2 sets on the FL2 and I drop my DS down from 20" rims to 189" and fitted the Falkens to that too.

Never had any issues with the horn but when you take the bumper off, you'll see that there's a lot of room to get a big winch in there ;)

View attachment 413074View attachment 413071

I did have an issue with the amount of off-road driving that I was doing in that I ripped the rear EGT sensor cable off several times and ended up putting it in a conduit and re-routing it ass best I could given the length of the wire. Something to think about after buying but I added a front sump plate and fuel tank protectors too. Do PM if you are thinking of going down that route. Same for adding CarPlay :thumb:
Bought it! Really nicely looked after, it’s had a new clutch just recently, 84k miles. Leather sunroof and all that. Needs a cam belt right now I’d say but has been serviced v regularly
looks fancy!
 
Morning all - off to look at one this morning, everything I read seems to suit what I need particularly the 140kg nose weight for towing on otherwise a modest vehicle.

it’s 2 owner, fsh and all that. Seems looked after.

What physically should I look for? Other than crawling underneath and seeing if it has rust or off road bangs, and checking the 4wd works?

It had a loose sub frame Bolts issue in a not a few years back which seems odd. Otherwise all research looks good.

Thanks
Great vehicles, ours from 6 months old put 165K on it only two issues pulley sheared off alternator and issue with rear part of prop. Great off road and drives like a car on the motorway
 
Bit of a coincidence, looking at a FL2 2014 just now. Only issue is stop start not working - still on original battery. It's in good order full service, cam belt done, all passes on the MOT. Just having but reading the above then writing this, I think I'll buy it! 5k, which seems fair for age, spec and mileage - 150k
 
Bit of a coincidence, looking at a FL2 2014 just now. Only issue is stop start not working - still on original battery. It's in good order full service, cam belt done, all passes on the MOT. Just having but reading the above then writing this, I think I'll buy it! 5k, which seems fair for age, spec and mileage - 150k
Must be new FL day!
 
Rats, may not be available now. In looking for others, manual or auto. Always had and prefer manual, but am aware that clutch replacement is a pig due to it's position.
 
Bit of a coincidence, looking at a FL2 2014 just now. Only issue is stop start not working - still on original battery. It's in good order full service, cam belt done, all passes on the MOT. Just having but reading the above then writing this, I think I'll buy it! 5k, which seems fair for age, spec and mileage - 150k
Stop start won’t be working as it probably doesn’t have it… ours doesn’t & it’s an end of production car.

I stand to be corrected of course 👍
 
Rats, may not be available now. In looking for others, manual or auto. Always had and prefer manual, but am aware that clutch replacement is a pig due to it's position.
Luckily mine has just had it done. I’d have had an auto but you can’t spec an old bus!
 
Bit of a coincidence, looking at a FL2 2014 just now. Only issue is stop start not working - still on original battery. It's in good order full service, cam belt done, all passes on the MOT. Just having but reading the above then writing this, I think I'll buy it! 5k, which seems fair for age, spec and mileage - 150k
Start stop may be due to the condition of the battery, once the battery capacity falls below a certain threshold it stops working.
 
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