good luck with the project @Lateral - I have a later model so I think the rear yoke is longer. It allows me to leave the rifle sitting on the sticks with the fifth leg deployed so I can see where you are coming from. The fifth leg is an absolute game changer. I deploy it 80% of the time just not when using the sticks for quick shots. Unbelievable stability but like everything you need to practice with it otherwise it’s totally useless!
Viperflex Idea................
- Thread starter Lateral
- Start date
Update, I posted out 6 units to those who had paid.
Mark
Mark
HI.
I've received mine and sent you an urgent DM
It appears there may be more than one version of the slotted ends 
Jelen just sent me a picture of something totally different to my sticks.
If this is the case, it will be rectified ASAP, and replacements sent out to those with the different ends.
Please let me know if you have an issue.
Jelen just sent me a picture of something totally different to my sticks.If this is the case, it will be rectified ASAP, and replacements sent out to those with the different ends.
Please let me know if you have an issue.
Ok, First things first, the stick that fit my yoke need to look like the original picture I posted of my sticks, and the recesses in the yoke. NO GEARS !
Pictures for reference.
Next, I need to get hold of the later sticks, so that I can make a "VERSION B", to replace the ones that don't fit.
Is there anyone in the Watford area who could meet me so that I can either borrow a set for a few days, or at least get some pictures and measurements ?
Mark
Pictures for reference.
Next, I need to get hold of the later sticks, so that I can make a "VERSION B", to replace the ones that don't fit.
Is there anyone in the Watford area who could meet me so that I can either borrow a set for a few days, or at least get some pictures and measurements ?
Mark
Rutland lad
Well-Known Member
Hi - an issue has arisen.
The part doesn't seem to mate with the Viperflex rear parts. Unless I’m doing something out of the ordinary ?
Perhaps the attached photo will explain.
I tried to PM you but that won’t let me attach photo.
I now see yesterday’s post with the comment NO GEARS - but obviously by then mine was in the post.
The part doesn't seem to mate with the Viperflex rear parts. Unless I’m doing something out of the ordinary ?
Perhaps the attached photo will explain.I tried to PM you but that won’t let me attach photo.
I now see yesterday’s post with the comment NO GEARS - but obviously by then mine was in the post.
UPDATE:
Jelen very kindly offered to lend me the later geared top section, so I can work on a new version.
It's going to take a little time to sort, but fingers crossed I'll have something within a couple of weeks.
If people are happy to wait, I'll keep you informed, but if anyone would prefer a refund, please PM me, and I'll sort it out.
Mark
Jelen very kindly offered to lend me the later geared top section, so I can work on a new version.
It's going to take a little time to sort, but fingers crossed I'll have something within a couple of weeks.
If people are happy to wait, I'll keep you informed, but if anyone would prefer a refund, please PM me, and I'll sort it out.
Mark
Rutland lad
Well-Known Member
Personally - l can wait.
Bavarianbrit
Well-Known Member
On the surface that touches the stock you could use Tesa anti vibration tape which is black and has a sort of wooly texture to prevent scratching the stock. It gets wrapped around things that touch in the car industry mainly behind door cards or instrument panels ask your local car dealer.
Bavarianbrit
Well-Known Member
It's certainly an option, but there is a silicone insert, which should help.
Another update. I try print small sections to check the file, and adjust the settings, rather than print the whole thing, until I know I'm close.
Version 2 is mostly done, but the software is estimating the print time at 2hrs 15mins at the moment 
but I hope to speed that up 
Some testing to see if 3D printing the "knob" is viable to retain, or if "knobless" would be a better option, at least to avoid breakages.
Just this test piece took 44mins. It's the first version.
Peoples thoughts on the importance of the knob ?
Version 2 is mostly done, but the software is estimating the print time at 2hrs 15mins at the moment
but I hope to speed that up Some testing to see if 3D printing the "knob" is viable to retain, or if "knobless" would be a better option, at least to avoid breakages.
Just this test piece took 44mins. It's the first version.
Peoples thoughts on the importance of the knob ?
My understanding is that its purpose is to lock the sticks together for transit, prior to them being opened up and deployed.Another update. I try print small sections to check the file, and adjust the settings, rather than print the whole thing, until I know I'm close.
Version 2 is mostly done, but the software is estimating the print time at 2hrs 15mins at the moment
Some testing to see if 3D printing the "knob" is viable to retain, or if "knobless" would be a better option, at least to avoid breakages.
Just this test piece took 44mins. It's the first version.
View attachment 425742
Peoples thoughts on the importance of the knob ?
So importance is essential in my opinion.
I'm getting differing views. Some say it's too slow with the sticks shut, and they stalk holding the sticks, but using their fingers to keep the sticks open, ready to open quickly. TBH, the earlier Viper-Flex also have a "lock", but I also use my fingers to keep the sticks open, which I find quicker and easier.
Regardless, if it's what people want, and it's viable, I'm happy to incorporate it.
When transiting ground I carry the Viperflex sticks on my left shoulder via a strap.
My rifle is on my right shoulder with its sling.
That way both hands are free to use binoculars or thermal as necessary, when I stop.
For me, it is essential that the Viperflex sticks locking facility for transit is retained.
My V1 clearly didn’t have the knob, because the earlier sticks use a lock mounted on one of the sticks itself, but no one mentioned it being an issue ?
As I said, I’m happy to retain the knob, hence the test prints, and asking the question, I just don't know how it will fair over time, and stalker abuse
The lock knob is rubber and has flex which enables it to squeeze between the legs. I'm not sure a hard plastic one would allow that?. The sticks also have lock clips at the bottom of the legs which lock the legs in the closed position for transport. I suppose one could saw off the plastic lock knob iff it didn't work?My V1 clearly didn’t have the knob, because the earlier sticks use a lock mounted on one of the sticks itself, but no one mentioned it being an issue ?
As I said, I’m happy to retain the knob, hence the test prints, and asking the question, I just don't know how it will fair over time, and stalker abuse
The lock on the earlier are a hard plastic, and they work fine, no issues.
This is the first complete print of the V2 yoke, with knob. As it is, this is taking over two hours to print, including making the "thinner" face a little thicker, to strengthen the area, which will help prevent the knob getting broken.
Just need to make sure everything fits correctly. Let you know..........................
This is the first complete print of the V2 yoke, with knob. As it is, this is taking over two hours to print, including making the "thinner" face a little thicker, to strengthen the area, which
will help prevent the knob getting broken.Just need to make sure everything fits correctly. Let you know..........................
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