BenBhoy
Well-Known Member
Though we're both on SD at 6am drinking coffee!Ffs I started putting malbec, just for you, but then got distracted!! Bugger!!
Paint stripper.
- Thread starter The Ratbasher
- Start date
The Ratbasher
Well-Known Member
Thanks for that. I'll see if I can find a link ?.
The Ratbasher
Well-Known Member
Bo Diddley
Well-Known Member
Join the airgunforumuk and ask on there, someone will put nath in the loop. He does some lovely work on refinishing & stock repairs.
Why d'you say that?
Worked great on my shotgun stock. Which reminds me, I really should finish it 
I did the stock & forend of a Beretta 686 that was lacquered using wire wool & a ground down hacksaw blade to clean & sharpen the chequering.
Hook'N'Bullet
Well-Known Member
Stops it from drying out too fast before it gets a chance to eat through the finish. I'd also do multiple coats over a couple of days. Its slow and tedious but will get there with time.
Bo Diddley
Well-Known Member
Easy to get it wrong.
I'd rather let the chemicals work slowly, then the old coating literally falls off with a little help with a nylon brush.
Everyone to their own, I suppose
.
you might need to score the surface to help it react.on a different note we used to smear some on the management toilet door handle when he ****ed us off
The Ratbasher
Well-Known Member
I'm already a member. Been on for years. But I'll have a looksee.
The Ratbasher
Well-Known Member
Stock now sanded to within an inch of it's life ( yes, I did it the hard way ), and first coat of Alkanet oil applied.
Let's see how this turns out ?.
Let's see how this turns out ?.
What's this obsession with a desire for an excessive redness in stock finishing?
Far better IMHO to focus on maximising the inherant character of the wood and adding to the depth of figure c/o heat (scorching) and layered dyes that ensure visible separation of the grain once cut back between applications.
I'm not talking about dying a stock in a preffred but unnatural colour, before you assume I want all such to exude vert!
K
Far better IMHO to focus on maximising the inherant character of the wood and adding to the depth of figure c/o heat (scorching) and layered dyes that ensure visible separation of the grain once cut back between applications.
I'm not talking about dying a stock in a preffred but unnatural colour, before you assume I want all such to exude vert!
K
The Ratbasher
Well-Known Member
The colour of the stock is way less red than with the factory varnish, which incidentally was hiding what actual figuring there was on the stock in the first place. It's only had a couple of coats of the Alkanet, as I didn't want it too dark.
dropmdead
Well-Known Member
There are companies who will sell original recipe Nitromors in gallon tins. It smells and burns just like the good ol' days.....
Due to H&S nowadays, they will only sell to a business address.
If anyone in central Scotland needs some, feel free to contact me (I have 3 gallons).
Due to H&S nowadays, they will only sell to a business address.
If anyone in central Scotland needs some, feel free to contact me (I have 3 gallons).
The Ratbasher
Well-Known Member
Well folks. After much rubbing ( stop giggling at the back ) and aching wrists ( I said stop it ! ) and achy fingers. Lot's of oil ( oh, I give up 
) and wax.
I ended up with this.
None of the grain was visible through the factory varnish, or whatever they use ?.
I think it looks OK ?.
) and wax.I ended up with this.
None of the grain was visible through the factory varnish, or whatever they use ?.
I think it looks OK ?.
That is an admirable effort. . I gave my Sako Vixen the same treatment.
. I gave my Sako Vixen the same treatment.
The Ratbasher
Well-Known Member
Thanks bud. Much appreciated. Let's be seeing the Sako then.That is an admirable effort.
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