Mauser M12 243- copper advice
- Thread starter beebuzz
- Start date
Somersetdk
Well-Known Member
Have the m12 in 308 , fox classic hunters do the business well. These can be loaded or purchased as full rounds 
farrieral
Well-Known Member
80 grain TTSX if you home load.
Shot a few decent fallow bucks this last 6 weeks and nothings gone further than 20 yards... got them kicking along at 3,335 fps!
I'd be happy to take it North of the boarder to cull a few hinds and followers after seeing the results thus far! Half inch groups to boot
Out of a X Bolt but it is a 243 so worth trying, 1:10, 22" barrel
Shot a few decent fallow bucks this last 6 weeks and nothings gone further than 20 yards... got them kicking along at 3,335 fps!
I'd be happy to take it North of the boarder to cull a few hinds and followers after seeing the results thus far! Half inch groups to boot
Out of a X Bolt but it is a 243 so worth trying, 1:10, 22" barrel
foxshooter69
Well-Known Member
I have literally been trying copper in my new Tikka .243 1/8 20" barrel this morning. Zeroed with Federal 100g Powershok. First of the copper, I tried some home loaded TTSX 80g tailored to my previous .243 which shot 3/4" groups then factory Sako Blades 80g which were clover leafing and finally factory Hornady CX 80G 1" grouping.
Very very impressed with the Sako Blades, not got round to trying them on live quarry yet.
Very very impressed with the Sako Blades, not got round to trying them on live quarry yet.
That’s a very kind thought! Thanks for the advice
Thanks all for the comments. I don’t home load so off the shelf is the way for me. Might have to be a short stop gap on copper before getting on with buying the new rifle. Such a shame as the M12 .243 shoots really well and I’ve a lot of confidence in it and like the 3 position safety. Would ideally like 100g+ in copper for the fallow- I’ll start looking in the new year…..
100+ grain in non lead is not necessary.
The 80 grainers perform as 100 grain lead bullets. I have used the 80 grain Sako blade to good effect on fallow.
Thanks. That’s helpful to know.
Smokedude
Well-Known Member
Short of buying a new rifle why not rebarrel?
I never thought about that as an option!
Any of the 80gr factory options should shoot and perform admirably in .243
personally if running short barrels or extended range that lowers the terminal velocity I would advise choosing a shot placement that provides bone to assist expansion or proximity to the CNS to offer a better knock down
I personally advocate the line above the halfway tidemark and up the front leg for a high shoulder shot
very little walks away
if you want a 100gr non lead we have developed Peregrine VRG3 and Fox Classic Hunter in factory load form that works well but benefits on small game are limited
personally if running short barrels or extended range that lowers the terminal velocity I would advise choosing a shot placement that provides bone to assist expansion or proximity to the CNS to offer a better knock down
I personally advocate the line above the halfway tidemark and up the front leg for a high shoulder shot
very little walks away
if you want a 100gr non lead we have developed Peregrine VRG3 and Fox Classic Hunter in factory load form that works well but benefits on small game are limited
87g .25 at c80 yards. Didn't go far and even less had it not 'fallen' down hill:
K
Thank you. Experience and confidence in the 80gr is good to hear. I want to be sure it will do the job so thank you for your reply!
Thanks. Seems like it is worth sticking with the .243 and trying a few copper options out.
80gr at 32-3300fpa has more terminal energy across the entire range of expected shots 0-300m
The velocity drop you get from most factory ammo 100gr sees less energy
You need to be stoking them up with homeloads or lucky in your choices to gain anything
As with any solid the velocity outweighs a lot of other factors
The velocity drop you get from most factory ammo 100gr sees less energy
You need to be stoking them up with homeloads or lucky in your choices to gain anything
As with any solid the velocity outweighs a lot of other factors
I bought a 1in 8 twist tikka 243 it puts Fox classic non toxic to the same point of aim as sako 90 and 100 grain lead bullets.Don’t be so hasty to get rid of your 243 .
As an aside..I recently bought an M12 in .243 and was advised via Brock and Norris not to use copper without complete lead cleaning as when using copper there is an affect on the barrel due to a chemical interaction ...any experience of this on the forum?
Heym SR20
Well-Known Member
I am introducing a friend to deer stalking. I have one piece of ground that was clear felled about 5 years ago. The stumps are just beginning to soften and starting to rot.
Last Sunday we had stalked most of the day, but the deer hadn’t got the memo on turning about. Was getting close to last light so I picked out a stump about 160 yards away in a 20° downward angle. It was quite an awkward shot from the raised bit of hill we were sitting , but typical of the sort of shot you get when stalking.
The stump was the size of a sika front / shoulder. I directed him onto it and asked him to put a killing shot into it. He got comfortable in a seated position uses sticks am pack under his shooting arm.
He shot with my 243 using Fox 80gn bullet.
Delighted he had shot it perfectly. The stump was a bit more than a foot in diameter and bullet had gone in diagonally from high passing staight through where the heart and longs would be, at out the other side and burying into the hillside.
The little 80gn bullet must have gone through at least 14 or 15” of decaying pine stump. There was a decent sized exit hole at base of stump and I followed bullet path several further inches down in amongst the roots. Before the tangle of roots and loosing light defeated me.
That shot has given me the confidence that that bullet will more penetrate straight the shoulder / kill zone of even the largest deer we see in the UK.
I am not advocating that the little 243 80gn Monolithic bullet is the best for targetting big deer - its not - a 7mm or 308 diameter from a good cartridge will be much better. However if its all you have in your hand when that big stag steps out of the wood and shot placement is good the result is certain.
Last Sunday we had stalked most of the day, but the deer hadn’t got the memo on turning about. Was getting close to last light so I picked out a stump about 160 yards away in a 20° downward angle. It was quite an awkward shot from the raised bit of hill we were sitting , but typical of the sort of shot you get when stalking.
The stump was the size of a sika front / shoulder. I directed him onto it and asked him to put a killing shot into it. He got comfortable in a seated position uses sticks am pack under his shooting arm.
He shot with my 243 using Fox 80gn bullet.
Delighted he had shot it perfectly. The stump was a bit more than a foot in diameter and bullet had gone in diagonally from high passing staight through where the heart and longs would be, at out the other side and burying into the hillside.
The little 80gn bullet must have gone through at least 14 or 15” of decaying pine stump. There was a decent sized exit hole at base of stump and I followed bullet path several further inches down in amongst the roots. Before the tangle of roots and loosing light defeated me.
That shot has given me the confidence that that bullet will more penetrate straight the shoulder / kill zone of even the largest deer we see in the UK.
I am not advocating that the little 243 80gn Monolithic bullet is the best for targetting big deer - its not - a 7mm or 308 diameter from a good cartridge will be much better. However if its all you have in your hand when that big stag steps out of the wood and shot placement is good the result is certain.
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