Any welders? Need advice on equipment.

I have domestic single phase power and a 200amp Rohr MIG welder. I have tried another stick welder and using the Rohr as a gassless MIG. Neither were that great, gas shielded MIG is the way to go. The Rohr is fine but it is and feels like a cheap Chinese model, I had to work out the speed and power settings myself (and make a cheat sheet). 10mm steel is quite thick and I would feel a bit underpowered, I have recently started pre-heating thick metal which helps a lot.
a friend bought a Rohr MMA machine, I tried it told him it was useless, he tried a proper machine (Lorch) and the Rohr promptly went in the bin.
 
It’s mostly steel. Up to 10mm. No issue with power supply.

Oddly enough as it’s been mentioned I’m currently pondering an ESAB 210pro.

I don’t want gasless, I currently have a couple of welders and one of them is a little Clarke 140 gasless, great for small jobs but trying to run a nice weld even on clean plate is a bit iffy.

Regards,
Gixer
10mm is too thick to weld with a 200A machine in my honest opinion. You'd struggle with penetration on fillet welds. Probably manage on a double bevel butt weld but it's still not going to be ideal.

You're looking at 300A+ for fillet welding 10mm thick plate.
 
Inverter or transformer is the key decision.
Inverter has more functionality.
Transformer is time proven and easier to repair in the future.

I went for the transformer as my previous Cebora lasted me over 25 years and got passed onto my mate who for £150 got it professionally repaired.
 

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I've got a Jasic stick which it very easy to use and perfect for being a bit portable. I've run it off a genny around the farm. A bit easy to blow through thin stuff though - I've made a couple of highseats with 1.5mm wall box and it's definitely doable but takes a bit of care. I also got a Blackline MIG a while back - plenty of reviews on the mig-welding forum. Cheap and cheerful and I can turn out a tidy weld very easily, especially with thin stuff. Takes up more space, needs a bottle, not ideal outside etc.
 
a friend bought a Rohr MMA machine, I tried it told him it was useless, he tried a proper machine (Lorch) and the Rohr promptly went in the bin.
Interesting, can you be a bit more specific on its problems?

Ive heard that these cheap MIGs lie about the max power output. I can't test mine, but I suspect that the power may be on the low side. For example if I follow the suggested power settings from those online calculators like Miller welding, i can tell the power needs adjusting upwards more. This adjustment isn't really a problem until I try and weld above 5mm, but I have found pre-heating helpful.

But is it just a question of max power or is the power inconsistent or is it something to do with the wire feed or gas output. Can you be a bit more specific about the issues?

Thanks,
 
10mm is too thick to weld with a 200A machine in my honest opinion. You'd struggle with penetration on fillet welds. Probably manage on a double bevel butt weld but it's still not going to be ideal.

You're looking at 300A+ for fillet welding 10mm thick plate.
The 10mm would be a rare thing. 👍🏻
 
just prep the joint and use stringer beads

i welded 30mm steel with 3.2mm rods but it was fine grain structural and the temp needed monitoring during the welding process the manage the HAZ
150A with Arc is very different to 200A with wire.
I've welded 40mm thick weldments with 2.5mm and 3.2mm rods.

With MIG/MAG If you're not getting the localised heat and therefore the penetration it doesn't matter how many passes you put on, it's going to be like caulking a joint with silicone.
 
150A with Arc is very different to 200A with wire.
I've welded 40mm thick weldments with 2.5mm and 3.2mm rods.

With MIG/MAG If you're not getting the localised heat and therefore the penetration it doesn't matter how many passes you put on, it's going to be like caulking a joint with silicone.

i know , i was mostly on site so mig wasn't really the best option although if it was a part we could get inside or the customer had a big enough workshop i'd use mig but i was coded in both ( a long time ago now i hasten to add)

very rare i get locked in the dark room with the green light for long nowadays although having said that i just treated myself to a new shield and they are full colour now!
 
For what reason and when did you last try an ESAB?
Use one currently. The wire feed is crap.
Use to use 4 bigger units. 500 amp 50% duty jobs. The signal connector was junk and constantly played up on all four units.
Kempi and miller are much better.
Used 5 jasic units now and they are much better made and better to use.
Old murex units are good.
Avoid crosarc, just make you cross.
I used a gys a few times, it was ok.
Cebora have always seems smooth welders too.

If you just want a stick welder just get a little inverter. Most will burn 3.25 all day long.
Unless it's going to be used every day , don't overthink it.
 
Use one currently. The wire feed is crap.
Use to use 4 bigger units. 500 amp 50% duty jobs. The signal connector was junk and constantly played up on all four units.
Kempi and miller are much better.
Used 5 jasic units now and they are much better made and better to use.
Old murex units are good.
Avoid crosarc, just make you cross.
I used a gys a few times, it was ok.
Cebora have always seems smooth welders too.

If you just want a stick welder just get a little inverter. Most will burn 3.25 all day long.
Unless it's going to be used every day , don't overthink it.
Is the ESAB an older unit? I ask as they get pretty stellar reviews on the newer pro models.

The stick side can be done with the ESAB but I have a few decent stick welders already - it’s more about the versatility of having a unit that does both and is easily moved around.
 
Is the ESAB an older unit? I ask as they get pretty stellar reviews on the newer pro models.

The stick side can be done with the ESAB but I have a few decent stick welders already - it’s more about the versatility of having a unit that does both and is easily moved around.
It's a fabricator e500 I think. Thought I had a picture..
We have an old Butters and I'd rather use that but it's not quite powerful enough. It never fails though. It'll run all day maxed out until the lance melts! And it's a smooth arc.
The esab has all adjustments but they kind of don't do anything!

Esab are not what they were afraid.
Once use an old esab from the 80's. 600amp.
That was good. That put it out well and the wire feed was solid.

It's high duty cycle you want. Not for work, for the machines build!
 
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