Sako 90 recoil lug 30.06

jb1

Well-Known Member
Here are images of the recoil lug and steel lug receiver plate, the marks in the image marked don't fill me with any confidence that this rifle will give me repeatable accuracy. To my very limited knowledge on these issues it clearly shows that the movement is linear to the action on recoil as per the friction marks, it also does not seem to be central. The action bolts had been tightened to 55 in-lb/ 6.2nM this was the max i could measure on my torque wrench.

What are the thoughts on full bedding (personally i think its a poor move by Sako from the 75 recoil lug) my thoughts are that it will remove this problem and improve accuracy and consistency, unfortunately at my cost 👎
 

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Mod on Mod Off, scope swapped, both Swaro, bi-pod on, bi-pod off and shot from a bag (improved a bit off bag) all action bolts and scope fixing checked and all good. Looking at the marks it looks to me as if there is linear movement that's occurred over times from recoil.
 
Sako have used this bedding solution throughout the 85 series of rifles and it has had many bad reports over the years. Some get lucky and others suffer similarly to the OP. There are reports of the stock coming loose after multiple shots. I believe it is because the wooden stocks compress under load and this movement exacerbates upon recoil. This is where the small amount of movement is amplified down range.

A solution is to have pillars added to the stock bolt holes and the inlet devcon bedded with the use of a Tikka T3 recoil lug replacing the current setup.


Obviously not what anybody really wants to be doing on a new rifle that cost a lot of money.
 
The wood may be compressing and essentially loosening up with use, which then allows it to move. Torquing it too high will cause this until the compression has maxed out.

Also, when you re-fit the stock, lightly nip the screws, hold it by the barrel and “thud” the butt down on the floor. Maintain the downwards pressure and tighten the screws. This keeps it seated against the lug.
 
As Scotch has advised

Pillar bed and use a T3 recoil lug fitted to the slot in front of the pitiful cantilever excuse for a recoil lug

The marks you see on that are from movement
Thank you fir the confirmation Ronin, its very little movement that end that Will obviously increase down range (tried to explain to the other half 🙄). Are the T3 recoil lugs easily available ?
I've fully bedded a Tikka M55 with pillars, are 90s more challenging ie will it be better to let a pro do it ? :-|
 
Here are the pillars/lugs that I made for bedding my friend's 85. Should be same for the 90.

IMG-20240301-WA0007.webp

It can be done more simply. Just gluing in the existing steel lug properly then bedding and possibly adding pillars would take away any room for movement.
 
Sako should really listen and sort this out. The 85 in 270 ejection was a problem as well. Cases would chip away at the bottom of the scope.
I thought this was the reason for the twin plungers on the 90, apparently Sako have ears open if your from the USA due to the increased spend than the UK.
I will see if Sako have any opinions on the images, it wont cost anything but a few minutes.
 
Easy enough to do yourself if you have done one previously (successfully)

Rory’s solution would be good as an easier fix with integral lug and pillars - worth supporting him if you did decide to proceed doing it yourself 👍🏻
 
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