What muzzle thread for a Tikka?

[Blunderbuss]

Hi all, first daft question from a newbie! I have a Tikka T3 Lite in 6.5 x 55mm. It's currently unmoderated and the muzzle has not been screw cut. I've done plenty of reading on moderators, but am a bit confused as to which thread is the best to choose. I suspect there is no "best" and that as with many other things in shooting its a compromise or divides opinion!

So, as I have the "luxury" of being able to choose what thread size to have cut and then buy a moderator to suit, what should I choose? 1/2" UNF seems to be the most common, particularly in second hand mods, but it seems to me a slightly bigger metric thread like M14 will leave a little more metal on the barrel leaving it stronger and also supporting the mod better? Could I (or more to the point should I) go to an even bigger thread? I'd like to buy or have made a thread protector too so that is a consideration.

Apologies again if I'm asking something which has been asked a million times before. I know how that happens with forum newcomers - but I did try a search but with no joy, honest!

 

[ejg]

I would choose M14x1. Factory threaded T3's come in M14x1 and M18x1 for Varmint as far as I know.
Saying that the 1/2"x20 will also do for a 6.5
edi

 

[Blunderbuss]

Cheers Edi, I didn't know it was the factory standard. That makes sense.

 

[swarovski]

have the minimum of metal taken off

 

[activeviii]

I like to keep all mine the same.
12.7mm of a unf or 14mm of a metric. I have UNF because thats what the first rifle i bought had on it.
NJC is going with 14x1 for the same reason.

14x1 is the std for Tikka's now on your barrel so i guess that i would go with the 14x1

all the best

Phil

 

[devilishdave]

Had mine cut 14x1 with no issues.

Dave

 

[Brithunter]

Everyone seems bother about the thickness left around the bore but no one seems bothered with having enough shoulder for the Moderator to butt up against. Some how I find this rather strange. The shoulder provides support and strength when the moderator is screwed up tight against it.

Given a choice I will always use a fractional thread rather than metric. The tolerances on the metrics are just too sloppy for my liking. Threads like the UNF just fit much better when both threads are made to the correct gauges. Sadly it seems very few actually use ant gauges when cutting threads on muzzles as they seem to use the moderator as a gauge......................... very poor practice IMHO. How do they check the Moderators thread was cut correctly?

 

[jay 22]

sporter m14x1 and varmint m18x1 cant go wrong.

 

[Whitebeard]

Everyone seems bother about the thickness left around the bore but no one seems bothered with having enough shoulder for the Moderator to butt up against. Some how I find this rather strange. The shoulder provides support and strength when the moderator is screwed up tight against it.

Given a choice I will always use a fractional thread rather than metric. The tolerances on the metrics are just too sloppy for my liking. Threads like the UNF just fit much better when both threads are made to the correct gauges. Sadly it seems very few actually use ant gauges when cutting threads on muzzles as they seem to use the moderator as a gauge......................... very poor practice IMHO. How do they check the Moderators thread was cut correctly?

I agree with all you say except the comment about metric threads, how can you say that metric threads are more sloppy then unified series? metric threads have classes of fits just like any other thread my friend.
Imperial threads have all but died a death and Unified series are only beiny used because the yanks are still using them but the metric thread is gradually taking over there as well.
I have fitted a fair few mods and have identical mods not fit the same thread, and as such i have had to cut threads to suit the moderator.
IMO its some of the mod manufacturers who need to work within the standards laid down for thread fits, the rest of the engineering manufacturing industry did so many many years ago.

 

[RichardP]

Everyone seems bother about the thickness left around the bore but no one seems bothered with having enough shoulder for the Moderator to butt up against. Some how I find this rather strange. The shoulder provides support and strength when the moderator is screwed up tight against it.

Given a choice I will always use a fractional thread rather than metric. The tolerances on the metrics are just too sloppy for my liking. Threads like the UNF just fit much better when both threads are made to the correct gauges. Sadly it seems very few actually use ant gauges when cutting threads on muzzles as they seem to use the moderator as a gauge......................... very poor practice IMHO. How do they check the Moderators thread was cut correctly?

With the relevent Screw Plug Gauge i would hope............

 

[ejg]

I also think it is bad practice to make a wrong sized thread just to match another wrong thread, meaning one might have problems when changing moderators.
If the thread in the moderator is not correct...fix it. Then cut a correct thread on the rifle. Custom threads are not really what was intended when describing engineering.

Kevin is right with the shoulder, very important to have a bit of surface especially for soft alu moderators.
edi

 

[RichardP]

I also think it is bad practice to make a wrong sized thread just to match another wrong thread, meaning one might have problems when changing moderators.
If the thread in the moderator is not correct...fix it. Then cut a correct thread on the rifle. Custom threads are not really what was intended when describing engineering.

Kevin is right with the shoulder, very important to have a bit of surface especially for soft alu moderators.
edi

I agree but i guess problems start if the mod thread is over size then what ..??...scrap mod or thread to match...??...but like you said both threads should be checked to the rellevent class fit gauges....

Rich

 

[Overlay]

Have the Sako 85 in 6.5 x55 mod thread is M14x 1

 

[Dovebob]

Blunderbus,

As above, I have an 85 Swede which came with a factory muzzle thread of M14 x 1. I subsequently got another 85 which wasn't cut. I had the second one cut in the same thread. I use the same mod (Northstar) on both, to very good effect.

Cheers,

Bob

 

[Blunderbuss]

Cheers all, not quite unanimous, but M14 x 1 it is.

 

[Brithunter]

I agree with all you say except the comment about metric threads, how can you say that metric threads are more sloppy then unified series? metric threads have classes of fits just like any other thread my friend.
Imperial threads have all but died a death and Unified series are only beiny used because the yanks are still using them but the metric thread is gradually taking over there as well.
I have fitted a fair few mods and have identical mods not fit the same thread, and as such i have had to cut threads to suit the moderator.
IMO its some of the mod manufacturers who need to work within the standards laid down for thread fits, the rest of the engineering manufacturing industry did so many many years ago.

Actually it's very easy to say that the Metrics are sloppy because then are when compared to the fit of Imperial threads. A company I used to work for had the contract to make and supply all the special bolts for the Bugatti owners club. They have all sorts of weird sizes. One could make the bolt to the ring and gap gauge as well as checking with O-Vee wires and then make the nut so suit using the gauge and when you put the nut on the bolt it wobbled about. Very sloppy. Compared that to say a 5/16 UNF or 4 BA thread and they fit together, that is nut and bolt of the same size , very nicely.

Like most things that the EU has to do with it's a con. We were told that the Metric system was easier and better. One didn't need all these special threads .......... that the Imperial systems had......................... Bull hicky. That's why we have all these speacial Non Standard threads for cars etc because the std ones are no damned good.

They have been forcing it upon us by any under hand means they can because lots of people were not interested in changing. One thing they are doing is making it more difficult for ordinary people to get imperial fastenings. However that's another tale.

Me i'll stick with Imperial threads and if I make something it will have imperial threads the SI lot can go take a very long walk off a short pier.

 

[trouble]

Hi all, first daft question from a newbie! I have a Tikka T3 Lite in 6.5 x 55mm. It's currently unmoderated and the muzzle has not been screw cut. I've done plenty of reading on moderators, but am a bit confused as to which thread is the best to choose. I suspect there is no "best" and that as with many other things in shooting its a compromise or divides opinion!

So, as I have the "luxury" of being able to choose what thread size to have cut and then buy a moderator to suit, what should I choose? 1/2" UNF seems to be the most common, particularly in second hand mods, but it seems to me a slightly bigger metric thread like M14 will leave a little more metal on the barrel leaving it stronger and also supporting the mod better? Could I (or more to the point should I) go to an even bigger thread? I'd like to buy or have made a thread protector too so that is a consideration.

Apologies again if I'm asking something which has been asked a million times before. I know how that happens with forum newcomers - but I did try a search but with no joy, honest!

google specialist rifle services , hes only at badgeworth not far for you to go

 

[bewsher500]

I like to keep all mine the same.
12.7mm of a unf or 14mm of a metric. I have UNF because thats what the first rifle i bought had on it.
NJC is going with 14x1 for the same reason.

14x1 is the std for Tikka's now on your barrel so i guess that i would go with the 14x1

all the best

Phil

best answer yet.
I use the same mod on 5 calibres and am about to add a sixth!
all happen to be 1/2" UNF! couldnt care less what the thread is so long as it fits!

 

[Cyres]

Suggest you give Teagues a call based at Tortworth, just down the M5 from you will do an excellent job and sort out re proof.

You might find SRS a ittle difficult to get hold of and may have a long turn around time, thats why I had mine done by Nigel.

D

 

[activeviii]

Blunderbuss, I spoke to Steve Bowers a little while ago about cutting a thread, turn round time was not great but he will talk the price up. he would have done just a cut but then it can be a while to get rifle back unless you pay for 4 hours of his time to run up to Birmingham to get the proof done. if you dont have anyone to cut for you yet then shout Neil and ask about Mike Norris. I used Alistair but never again as the thread was as bad as the old one, very ruff.