.223 bullet drop

[Tikkat3xl]

I was out zeroing my .223 with Norma 50gr vmax from a tikka t3 20 inch barrel.
I zeroed at 100m and then took it back to 200m to see what the drop would be like.
When I took the shoots, the 5 shot group was 50p piece size but the drop was 3inches.

Does this sound about right for this calibre and bullet for drop?

 

[big ears]

Sounds about right for your rifle using those bullets.

 

[Accurate 1]

Yes , that sounds spot on . And a 50p 5 shot group at 200m is excellent shooting

A1

 

[Tikkat3xl]

I always assumed that a .223 was point and shoot at a fox out to 200m, not that I have as all my shooting has been 20-120m at night so no need to push long ranges, how wrong I was I

I must add it was off a bench, using shooting bags front and rear to ensure being steady with zero wind, can’t fault the 2 Tikkas I have in .243 and .223

 

[DVS1]

Maybe experiment by zeroing half inch or 1" high at 100m that way you'll be 2" low at 2" and still easily in minute of fox

I zero .75" high at 100m or a 175m zero and at 200m I add 2 clicks elevation or 1" for a bob on shot...thats with 50gr BK

 

[User00044]

It looks as though they're leaving the barrel at approx 3250 fps , I quickly ran it through Strelok , given the 20 inch barrel that's pretty spot on .

 

[Nick703]

Same gun-barrel , I use hornaday superformance 53g,zero at 60y shoot at top of shoulders at 300 ish,always works for me

 

[Len the dog]

I’m using the same ammo in my T3X 22-250 with a 20” barrel, it absolutely loves them and I get Norma brass to then reload.
As DVS1 said, zero a touch high at 100 and be a touch low at 200.

 

[Hook'N'Bullet]

I always assumed that a .223 was point and shoot at a fox out to 200m, not that I have as all my shooting has been 20-120m at night so no need to push long ranges, how wrong I was I

I must add it was off a bench, using shooting bags front and rear to ensure being steady with zero wind, can’t fault the 2 Tikkas I have in .243 and .223

I mean, 3 inches is pretty much point and shoot.

Alternatively, you could just zero an inch or two high at 100

 

[gixer1]

Or if you see something at 200m give it 4-5 clicks up on the elevation turret….however 3” when pointing at the shoulder area is a dead fox every day of the week, or just aim a little higher on a roe.

Regards,
Gixer

 

[Dalua]

I always assumed that a .223 was point and shoot at a fox out to 200m,

I think it is, but you have to zero so as to make the most use of the trajectory. POI 1.5" high at 100m should put you about on at 200m, and hey presto...

 

[DVS1]

This is my Strelok chart with data verified to 300m...want to check 400m but grass too frickin long at the mo as said i zero .75" high at 100m 23" 1:8 tube using rs40 23.8gr & 50gr SBK

 

[wabbit warren]

Same gun-barrel , I use hornaday superformance 53g,zero at 60y shoot at top of shoulders at 300 ish,always works for me

Nick can i ask why you zero at 60yds if your shooting them out to 300yds
i use the same ammo and rifle as you
i zero roughly 3/4" high at 100yds as most of my shooting is 100/150 yds
shooting off sticks ive shot a few just over the 200yds with just a small bit of hold over

 

[Warbucks]

What iv'e found with most centre fire rifles is if you zero 1" high at 100 yds the bullet then raises another 1/2" at 150 yds then back to zero around the 200 yd mark, if you go any more than 1" high at 100 yds and you pull the shot slightly high you will shoot over the fox at 150 yds, been there got the badge.
Foxes look like they average 7"/180mm on their body, but that is because of all the hair, iv'e watched then jump threw a 150mm wire fence so their body must be less.
Seen as most foxes are shot sub 200 yds i do think you need a zero that is point and shoot for this range with hold over for further.

Dave (warbucks)

 

[Len the dog]

There are two zero points on a trajectory, for my 22-250 I zero at 200 but the bullet path also intersects line of sight at about 70 yds, known as first zero.

 

[Tikkat3xl]

Thanks for all your suggestions, I zeroed using the Pulsar C50 so I have set my first zero at 100m then a second zero at 200m so anything that’s at that distance I can just change the zero point

 

[David.evans]

My c50 is zeroed at 150 yards , point and shoot , thats on 7x
atb

 

[ejg]

The 50gr V-Max from Fiocchi can be between 2800 & 2900 with a 20" T3, accurate but slow. I pays to check velocity of the ammo used.
edi

 

[Nick703]

Nick can i ask why you zero at 60yds if your shooting them out to 300yds
i use the same ammo and rifle as you
i zero roughly 3/4" high at 100yds as most of my shooting is 100/150 yds
shooting off sticks ive shot a few just over the 200yds with just a small bit of hold over

My rifle is a tikka t3x super varmint 20in with a drone pro on top,the 60 yard zero is because it’s easier to zero with nv at that range and my 2nd zero is over 200. 99% of my foxing is from the bonnet with bipod and rear bag ,no holdover whatsoever at 200-250

 

[Warbucks]

My rifle is a tikka t3x super varmint 20in with a drone pro on top,the 60 yard zero is because it’s easier to zero with nv at that range and my 2nd zero is over 200. 99% of my foxing is from the bonnet with bipod and rear bag ,no holdover whatsoever at 200-250

A high mounted scope/nv/thermal will also extend your second zero.
I have two Drone Pro 10's the scope height is 2.6 ", this can give most centre fire rifles point-n-shoot out to 200 yds+

Dave (warbucks)