paulbshooting
Well-Known Member
My 308 is zeroed for 200m. Most shots tend to be 100-150m but the fallow on fields can be out to 200m.
308 100m zero.
- Thread starter sparrow123
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Nothing says you're British like mixing your units
billy_boyle_2010
Well-Known Member
The prob with zeroing high at 100 is 70- 100 is often the distance people head shoot at.
Head shots are risky enough without worrying about stuff like that.
Head shots are risky enough without worrying about stuff like that.
Good point - and may be the deciding factor to go for the 100m zero if you’re a head shot man
the old 308 howitzer trajectory ain’t as forgiving as some
Stalker62
Well-Known Member
billy_boyle_2010
Well-Known Member
I haven't claimed to have any empiracle evidence. It's anecdotal.
I didn't say I knew it. It was obviously opinion. I said "often".
I have met a number of stalkers who consider 100 yards to be the upper limit of their comfortable head shooting limit (those who head shoot at all anyway). Also I have read a couple of studies which measured average shot distances (a mix of deer and fox from memory- shot location wasnt recorded) and 100 yards was the average distance. (likely no Scottish Highlands were surveyed).
So it seems plausible to me. But it's not empiracle.
I'm sure you could conduct your own empiracle research if you would like.
billy_boyle_2010
Well-Known Member
Good point - and may be the deciding factor to go for the 100m zero if you’re a head shot man
Scope height probably plays a role too. Makes a massive difference with a loopy air rifle. But given some stalkers use big 56 objective scopes- I would imagine at 40-50 yards the shot placement would be significant for head shots.
big ears
Well-Known Member
Don’t head shoot then.
Simples
billy_boyle_2010
Well-Known Member
95% of the time- I don't. But some do.
Having a MPBR type zero designed for chest shooting- and then head shooting as a one off- seems like an easy way of wounding a deer to me.
Foxyboy43
Well-Known Member
Hmmm.
Whilst I understand there is an argument in commercial culling head-shooting is not for me, be it deer or even foxes - I need all the help I can get and the sleep to match - my conscience means too much to me.
I think there is a need to make it clear that these are not “head- shots”- they are BRAIN-SHOTS - i.e. a target maybe only 10% in area of the deer’s head - miss it and what remains of said head will likely disappear from view as the vey damaged deer takes it with it - over the far hill…
In my case and as you can see with a 100 zeroed rifle my 130gns 6.5 is more than an inch low at the 50 mark so (wrongly) using that as POA a Muntjac/CWD or Roe deer would likely be hit at the top of the jaw - anything other than a perfect shot would make it worse. Of course if said deer was obligingly standing perfectly broadside at exactly 50 then I could aim high to effect but what if it was at say 70? If said deer was face on a headshot without precise knowledge of distance and POI would in all likelihood strike said deer in the top lip, mid-snout or worse.
Conversely with the same scenario and a 200 zero the rifle is spot on at said 50 but what about 70/80, 120/160 etc…. aiming for that small head?
Clearly the bigger the target the less critical the 100 or 200 zero so broadside or hilar shots on say red hinds will, if the aim is true, result in a quick dispatch - so again why a headshot?
For thebop - the critical thing for me is know where your bullet is going at all distances; this can only really be achieved by spending time and money on the range - logging the results, and putting them into practice.
Class discuss…
Whilst I understand there is an argument in commercial culling head-shooting is not for me, be it deer or even foxes - I need all the help I can get and the sleep to match - my conscience means too much to me.
I think there is a need to make it clear that these are not “head- shots”- they are BRAIN-SHOTS - i.e. a target maybe only 10% in area of the deer’s head - miss it and what remains of said head will likely disappear from view as the vey damaged deer takes it with it - over the far hill…
In my case and as you can see with a 100 zeroed rifle my 130gns 6.5 is more than an inch low at the 50 mark so (wrongly) using that as POA a Muntjac/CWD or Roe deer would likely be hit at the top of the jaw - anything other than a perfect shot would make it worse. Of course if said deer was obligingly standing perfectly broadside at exactly 50 then I could aim high to effect but what if it was at say 70? If said deer was face on a headshot without precise knowledge of distance and POI would in all likelihood strike said deer in the top lip, mid-snout or worse.
Conversely with the same scenario and a 200 zero the rifle is spot on at said 50 but what about 70/80, 120/160 etc…. aiming for that small head?
Clearly the bigger the target the less critical the 100 or 200 zero so broadside or hilar shots on say red hinds will, if the aim is true, result in a quick dispatch - so again why a headshot?
For thebop - the critical thing for me is know where your bullet is going at all distances; this can only really be achieved by spending time and money on the range - logging the results, and putting them into practice.
Class discuss…
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billy_boyle_2010
Well-Known Member
Hmmm.
View attachment 393438 View attachment 393439
Whilst I understand there is an argument in commercial culling head-shooting is not for me, be it deer or even foxes - I need all the help I can get and the sleep to match - my conscience means too much to me.
I think there is a need to make it clear that these are not “head- shots”- they are BRAIN-SHOTS - i.e. a target maybe only 10% in area of the deer’s head - miss it and what remains of said head will likely disappear from view as the vey damaged deer takes it with it - over the far hill…
In my case and as you can see with a 100 zeroed rifle my 130gns 6.5 is more than an inch low at the 50 mark so (wrongly) using that as POA a Muntjac/CWD or Roe deer would likely be hit at the top of the jaw - anything other than a perfect shot would make it worse. Of course if said deer was obligingly standing perfectly broadside at exactly 50 then I could aim high to effect but what if it was at say 70? If said deer was face on a headshot without precise knowledge of distance and POI would in all likelihood strike said deer in the top lip, mid-snout or worse.
Conversely with the same scenario and a 200 zero the rifle is spot on at said 50 but what about 70/80, 120/160 etc…. aiming for that small head?
Clearly the bigger the target the less critical the 100 or 200 zero so broadside or hilar shots on say red hinds will, if the aim is true, result in a quick dispatch - so again why a headshot?
For thebop - the critical thing for me is know where your bullet is going at all distances; this can only really be achieved by spending time and money on the range - logging the results, and putting them into practice.
Class discuss…
Completely agree.
I do think that most deer calibres are pretty flat and one can over think these things. If you keep the scope low, zero at 100- chest shoot- you're pretty safe out to 150 or so without any real worries about slight variations in point of impact. Knowing you're 3-5" low at 200 covers most people.
Polar Lynx
Well-Known Member
big ears
Well-Known Member
Yep so don’t do it.
308rws
Well-Known Member
I don’t like to be critical of what other’s write but we really have to be careful of our advice
Beginners turn to this sort of thread for guidance
Let us not over complicate it or pretend there is some sort of magic involved
If you want to zero at 50m and work from there
Or..
Zero at 100
Or 1” high at 100
Or 200m
Who cares?!?
Just know your rifle, your ammo, your drops and wind effects
It doesn’t matter what the starting point is
What matters is that you know your tools, your land and your quarry
Keep it simple
Know your limits
Practice
If centre fire is too expensive then practice with .22LR
If there are any newbies out there that need to zero their rifle, practice the DSC shooting test, Or learn something about shooting at varied distances
I’m happy to give you a day FOC if you can make it to Cornwall
PM me
J
PS
MPBR is an abbreviation for Max Point Blank Range
Imagine a pipe (let’s say a 5” drainage pipe) between you and your quarry
Your ‘ line of sight’ is down the middle
A MPBR is the max range that the bullet will not deviate from within that imaginary pipe
It is a distance where you don’t need to worry about the exact range to target as you will still hit the critical area
You could have an MPBR for 6” or 4” or 3”
It is an infantry thing, but useful for us hunters
The US forces call it “battle sight zero” I believe
Beginners turn to this sort of thread for guidance
Let us not over complicate it or pretend there is some sort of magic involved
If you want to zero at 50m and work from there
Or..
Zero at 100
Or 1” high at 100
Or 200m
Who cares?!?
Just know your rifle, your ammo, your drops and wind effects
It doesn’t matter what the starting point is
What matters is that you know your tools, your land and your quarry
Keep it simple
Know your limits
Practice
If centre fire is too expensive then practice with .22LR
If there are any newbies out there that need to zero their rifle, practice the DSC shooting test, Or learn something about shooting at varied distances
I’m happy to give you a day FOC if you can make it to Cornwall
PM me
J
PS
MPBR is an abbreviation for Max Point Blank Range
Imagine a pipe (let’s say a 5” drainage pipe) between you and your quarry
Your ‘ line of sight’ is down the middle
A MPBR is the max range that the bullet will not deviate from within that imaginary pipe
It is a distance where you don’t need to worry about the exact range to target as you will still hit the critical area
You could have an MPBR for 6” or 4” or 3”
It is an infantry thing, but useful for us hunters
The US forces call it “battle sight zero” I believe
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In which case set the ‘zero’ 2” high at 100 yards & then get on with the job in hand - shooting deer!
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