I don't have a comprehensive parts list and I'm not going to build any more of these, but the principal electrical/electronic components are:
a. 2000 watt ZVS induction heating power module
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Josenidny-Voltage-Induction-Heating-Flyback/dp/B0CJC8GDTR/ref=sr_1_20?crid=HL7BYK779CZU&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.O5k643Xg5vj_E6lVqqU-xuN4q9GCM69nrEk0oSRsFCOeE51stGu7Qdb2U7iZq_JFMfjyacRVMUKOfB0LGhm2I1snsA8QgdB_1FNzCe9BCBWr8aQ37nNFv2qcrm4dyVzKG-K1JuC46C74vhC0L6Rmu5d8pnzRcFqJwbkBejgyCkNpF-c6bMjDEBd6Qe3nUws1gPu0X7F3Ei8Nou-OdVZN5yRvGb0MqGp-69EHU3qlX524ZOKD0bx_fpnnMBRx2r62wIt7JxK7WeMDWJbtFggy87ICZ8J5oTb-3VutjavKNkc.YExFcNfCXl_uqgRyEtc4T2ulb5ExOk72dFZ3Tu3S3Ew&dib_tag=se&keywords=zvs+2000w+power+supply&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1730542405&sprefix=zvs+2000w+power+supply,aps,95&sr=8-20
This converts incoming 36 volts DC into the high frequency AC needed to power the induction coil
b. 36 volt 1000watt DC power supply
https://www.amazon.co.uk/MEISHILE-230VAC-DC36V-Transformer-Monitoring-Industrial/dp/B07FRTG295/ref=sr_1_6?crid=22164DBSJ1Q50&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.FDfyw8UlIvmsRFZeU_sY2Y9CPkdXa-uiSj30KDnue0FoVWZwfCmzDOpJIKADDimbwE-wVkyELmdavlx5DFg-kVS6BBTUoIo_aHCZL8GlbHcJEAGyOPAezDnBRV5cR4sseT7lRj34AuBCrhZ75gEVL0JNck8DX-Henkm0FjnBh-0949xBgRb5H7AxeIPz8JOL1nmtDCNh2ZtlIzlFdaIub_DKcW8IBjSotNci8QjVWwDiCsSusXTM5FSs-aAi_Kpiq8wI7WBbemEFXFDT8BS9cfOEBXms0Gx6Ofeh6ZlLHdU.nkg2ts7seNcueXkiYtSRUfU15xy0IqKkQxMtqkdL9jI&dib_tag=se&keywords=1000watt+36+volt+power+supply&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1730542685&sprefix=1000watt+36+volt+power+supply+,aps,74&sr=8-6
This converts 240v ac power into the 36 volt DC power used by the ZVS module
c. There has to be a switch between the output of the 36 volt power supply and the input of the ZVS module to stop and start the annealing process. This switch has to handle a lot of current and be controlled by the timer which sets the annealing time. There are two ways to do it:
1. Use a solid state relay. This is the best way, but all the DC to DC solid state relays on Amazon are really poor quality and I had 3 fail in short order before I found a used genuine solid state relay (Sensata/Crydom D1D-100) that does the job. Even second hand, the relay cost over £100
2. The other way is to use a miniature DC contactor like this
https://www.nationwide-trailer-parts.co.uk/products/24v-hd-iskra-starter-del-tail-lift?currency=GBP&variant=1201879045&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&stkn=3093597afcc6&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwm5e5BhCWARIsANwm06j0avXmG-4N1jpCIqR7ch3v_g5CELa9apH-55Gecjo6o8czshLwTkwaAsCMEALw_wcB
It's a bit clunky, but it will work
d. I made the induction coil from a length of 5mm OD copper tube. I insulated the central section of it using fibreglass high temperature insulating sleeving and then formed the coil by wrapping it around a wooden dowel. There are 6 turns on the coil and the inner diameter of the coil is about 25-30mm.
Trying to make it tighter than this runs the risk of flattening the copper tube.
There is a break in the insulation where the tube is electrically connected to the ZVS module but straight sections of insulated tube extend along the length of the module and exit at the rear of the module where they are connected to plastic pipes from the cooling pump
Running coolant (water and antifreeze) through the coil dramatically reduces it temperature and increases it's life span. In fact I'm still using my original coil
e. Timer module. This is used to set the annealing time. Pressing the start button pulls in the relay allowing DC power to reach the ZVS module and start the annealing process. At the end of the timed period, the relay opens, cutting off power to the module and ending the annealing process. On my set up, the end of the timed period triggers the solenoid that allows the case to drop out of the coil
This is the timer I'm using
https://www.fruugo.co.uk/for-inkbir...UL_umfe5yEFVfVNTVO9yC_dyPwydeYdcaAlZ8EALw_wcB
f. 12 volt 20 amp DC power supply - something like this
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Universal-Regulated-Switching-Transformer-LED/dp/B07CRNNQ2P/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=3IDTA9Q1P9182&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.sbQR3j_-UqEP7metB6ID3tw769THFvQ8oxKfi_eAvBjNltGBpHLlP7SAWtmcBeks7X6aC2wjBdiOw9fXjyaNzFl2p7w5BT6JBTUg7q31fs-aeWMU8Y-XD2z_Sa0f7tuF58PTQkfZJ0H6RnnRS9J0vzyVZtdU6kXdaz1g0L9oxjYYPSqLTqy4X_tpJFIhxeXHuRBxTkvBHtOi7a1fyJdiNq95H3wQf2pWjEiiCifCQ0ui9IhqsdALBgQc9Y776IwldCfEzDAUveM5MOTxs6sr-w6Dj5hU-cLsX9jJ3vM3m64.TwxlYAfOzfKa0eMin-WvUNsEiwa7AEZl_Rp4eO5e0k0&dib_tag=se&keywords=12+volt+20+amp+Dc+power+supply&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1730546009&sprefix=12+volt+20+amp+dc+power+supply,aps,132&sr=8-3-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1
This provides power for the timer, the relay/contactor, coolant pump and solenoid that allows the cartridge to fall at the end of the annealing cycle
g. Other bits: that will be needed
On/off power switch
Start switch (push button)
Coolant pump (12 volt) plus hoses and tank
Solenoid to open and close the cover that allows the case to fall at the end of the annealing cycle
Case to build the whole thing into - I got a used computer case for the cost of 2 pints of beer from a local computer shop
h. Other optional bits:
A shunt connected between the 36 volt supply and the ZVS to measure the current being drawn by the ZVS module when powers up. This along with the voltage from the 36 volt power supply are fed into an energy measurement module that displays the voltage, current, power and energy consumed
Coolant digital thermometer - the probe lies in the coolant tank and the temperature is displayed on the front panel. The coolant can get up to over 70 degrees centigrade when annealing a lot of brass!
Cheers
Bruce
. I had been pondering how to connect the coil part to the water and the ZVS without lots of complicated soldering etc, but having reread the above I shall see is there is room for the copper tube to pass through my ZVS unit; it would certainly make life much easier. I’m still waiting for the timer from fruugo who charged like a wounded rhino for the carriage and have been very uncommunicative. As your case trap worked so well it makes no sense for me to reinvent the wheel and was wondering if you could show me a few pix to give me a starter. Many thanks, Ralph
