Just rebooting this. How is it best to "fill" exposed porous antler?
Attaching Antler to Walking Stick
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NOTSHARP
Well-Known Member
Use this : Ronseal Wet Rot Wood Hardener - 250ml | Wickes.co.uk
Pour this into the exposed end of the cut antler. Leave it for a day or two. It will set, hard.
It is then easy to drill the inside of the antler, and epoxy some threaded rod into it, if stick making. Preferably, stainless steel studding.
I have made, probably, hundreds of stick handles like this, and they do not fail.
Steve.
I normally fill it with super glue, coat the porous part and let it soak in, when set add more, keep going until it wont take any more.
This
I pour this into the trabecular bone in the middle of the antler (be careful, though, as it will come out the other end!) and leave it to set. Stops any subsequent crumbling.
I’ve used this when using antler as handles for sticks, carving forks, butter knives, shaving brushes, bottle openers, etc.
I think I may have originally heard about this method from @NOTSHARP, and it’s been failsafe ever since.
I do quite a few sticks and I use both the tenon fit and threaded Rod method depending on the thickness of the shank. Rod can split the shank if to much force is put on the handle so if possible I use the tenon method. As for the drying leave all sticks for at least 12 months and use steam to straighten. As for finishing I use danish oil for all of mine as they can have a coat when they get worn
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Left field and possibly unhelpful response, but for what it’s worth I’ve come to the conclusion that in many instances it’s far more pleasing to the eye to leave at least some of the bark on a shank. Allow circa 12-months to dry and sand sparingly to remove the bark that clearly wants to part company and any areas that suggest interesting juxtaposition.
I also recommend using dyes (green is good!) to tone down overly white wood and those all-important profiled knots/thorns/branches.
K
I also recommend using dyes (green is good!) to tone down overly white wood and those all-important profiled knots/thorns/branches.
K
Thanks folks!
Boo on PigeonWatch is the best, lives less than a mile from me. I’ve had a few sticks from him, they were lovely.
Rams horn crook
Evening , just about finished this crook , horn is clear of cracks& splits , solid top , nose a little out ! Sanded, wet& dried, polished on the mop , fitted on dark hazel shank , on the whole fairly pleased with it ,all a learning curve....
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deerstalker.308
Well-Known Member
This thread prompted me, I was asked a while ago to make a stick for a friends dad who’s turning 80, by coincidence he is up visiting next weekend so I thought why not get on and make it so he can take it with him when he goes.
He was undecided on brief, he wanted an antler thumb stick but was conscious his dad may actually need more of a classic walking stick, as luck would have it I had this interesting shaped bit of antler from a stag I’d shot years back which must have damaged it in velvet and kept growing. Result it something that can both be used as a thumb stick or with the hand on top of the flat and used more like a conventional stick. Antler tips are finished with polished buffalo horn.
The wood is holly I’ve taken the blowtorch to, to give it some colour, never tried that before, not entirely sure but I think the finished article looks passable.
He was undecided on brief, he wanted an antler thumb stick but was conscious his dad may actually need more of a classic walking stick, as luck would have it I had this interesting shaped bit of antler from a stag I’d shot years back which must have damaged it in velvet and kept growing. Result it something that can both be used as a thumb stick or with the hand on top of the flat and used more like a conventional stick. Antler tips are finished with polished buffalo horn.
The wood is holly I’ve taken the blowtorch to, to give it some colour, never tried that before, not entirely sure but I think the finished article looks passable.
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Finish in progress:
It’s an an oak sapling that some vandal snapped off on a woodland dog walking route.
K
It’s an an oak sapling that some vandal snapped off on a woodland dog walking route.
K
HonestJohn
Well-Known Member
Unbelievable, I bet he wears a green felt hat too!
thorneyglatt
Well-Known Member
Prefer to leave antler natural. Usually tie a string noose around antler or horn handle and hang from a beam in the garage - assuming there's no car wanting the same space. But who uses the garage for a car these days ?
Some great advise on this thread, would like a go at making a stick for beating/dog walking, but my permission only have a couple of roe on it,which I won’t shoot so a nice piece of antler is out of the question.
Is there anyone who would be kind enough to send me a piece suitable for a nice stick? I would cover costs of course.
Is there anyone who would be kind enough to send me a piece suitable for a nice stick? I would cover costs of course.
Essexsussex
Well-Known Member
Just what I did for the couple I’ve made for my son and brother (brother shot the roe we don’t see many).
Used a length of 22mm pipe for a ferule and the threaded rod trick
Then furniture wax rather than oil because that’s what I had.
A bit industrial but as we are sharing ideas…this is of course pre-cleaning up and polishing / waxing.
Used a length of 22mm pipe for a ferule and the threaded rod trick
Then furniture wax rather than oil because that’s what I had.
A bit industrial but as we are sharing ideas…this is of course pre-cleaning up and polishing / waxing.
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I’ve made sticks using roe antler, but it wouldn’t be my preference for a working stick - those points sticking up can be dangerous!
Stalker62
Well-Known Member
@Stimo444
Would you mind awfully, just expanding on what that means?
I recently broke (twice!) my favourite 'Crook Stick', whilst up in the Highlands.
The local Stalker has past the stick (hazel), onto a local stick-maker to attach something splendid and to 'make good'. It will make for a nice story when it finally wends its way back home.
I would have had a go myself, but a man has to know his limitations. It is all I can do to make kindling....
I prefer to use a 12mm stud/bolt:
Hole is cental to the shaft at the narrowess point of stud depth.
K
Hole is cental to the shaft at the narrowess point of stud depth.
K
Hi
I find that if the head is large enough to drill a good size hole then I cut a spigot on the shank and glue and fit it like that. If not big enough then I use the threaded steel method. However have found that the threaded steel method can cause the shank to split and I have repaired quite a few sticks made by other people and they have all been made in this layer method
I find that if the head is large enough to drill a good size hole then I cut a spigot on the shank and glue and fit it like that. If not big enough then I use the threaded steel method. However have found that the threaded steel method can cause the shank to split and I have repaired quite a few sticks made by other people and they have all been made in this layer method
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Dunwaters
Well-Known Member
Cut the tips and sand down the pearling a bit, it will be safer and you’ll have a nice contrast between the ivory coloured sanded finish and the darker antler body.
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