Best thermal scope zeroing method

[mikek207]

I’m currently using a heat pad stapled onto a target but the heat source grows in the scope. I’m thinking of drilling a hole in the target and stapling the heat pad on the back. Any interesting ideas?

 

[Ludders]

That what I do
Drill a 1 inch hole through a sheet of ply and tape the heat pad to the back. I cover the ply with plain paper. You can usually see the bullet hole as the paper retains the heat enough for pulsar one shoot zero

 

[BLUEROLL]

I’m currently using a heat pad stapled onto a target but the heat source grows in the scope. I’m thinking of drilling a hole in the target and stapling the heat pad on the back. Any interesting ideas?

Unless it is thick board you will still eventually get heat bleed through the board and the heat source growing.
I just pin the small handwarmer pouches to the target board but tip it forward so the patch hangs away from the board.

 

[Triggermortis]

A 2” square of aluminium foil tape and for some reason if you angle the board away from you slightly the square shows up brilliantly especially on a bright day .

 

[shezza87]

Came here to say the same!
Aluminium foil tape,handwarmers start heating up and become hazy.
The tape will only get colder if in the shade and create a more defined outline.

 

[Jelen]

Unless it is thick board you will still eventually get heat bleed through the board and the heat source growing.
I just pin the small handwarmer pouches to the target board but tip it forward so the patch hangs away from the board.

Out of interest, if you shoot the pouch does it disintegrate, or will it take 2 or 3 shots. Just thinking of the 200m return walk for every shot.

 

[Triggermortis]

Foil takes as many as you’ll ever need,it’s a few quid for a 50m roll and there’s 20 x 2” squares to the metre.

 

[BLUEROLL]

Out of interest, if you shoot the pouch does it disintegrate, or will it take 2 or 3 shots. Just thinking of the 200m return walk for every shot.

It seems to depend on the bullet used and if you hit it smack bang in the middle where the pad is thickest. Coppers tend to leave a small hole so it still works but the Nosler 100gr BT (6.5mm) expand very rapidly upon impact with the heat pad, blow a 1" sized hole in the backing board and I can only assume it is some sort of back blast of wood splinters that virtually destroy the heat pad.

 

[mikek207]

Out of interest, if you shoot the pouch does it disintegrate, or will it take 2 or 3 shots. Just thinking of the 200m return walk for every shot.

I usually get a few shots out of it depending on calibre.

 

[griffshrek]

I don't know about best method, but this is what I use and it works for me .
I use reactive hardox target , give the target a gentle once over with a blow lamp
( literally seconds) if you wish to see the target outline, and a few seconds more on reactive plate .
I can tell by the noise if I hit the reactive plate , if not just look with bins for the bullet impact splash on the painted target.
Don't heat plate up too much or you will get a too big a heat signature.
This is my target @ 168m .

 

[Rogerp]

Pizza box with a inch hole cut in the lid then a hand warmer stuck to the back inside the box

 

[jthyttin]

Out of interest, if you shoot the pouch does it disintegrate, or will it take 2 or 3 shots. Just thinking of the 200m return walk for every shot.

I tape the heat pad (iron oxide type) to thick cardboard. Wide tape, tape all sides. No problems with disintegration or degradation of image. Used with 53gr Varmageddon (223) and 125/165gr Accubond/Ballistic Tip (308).

Heat pads are cheap when you look where to buy. Having few in your pocket and the roll of tape while going to target (150m) but never had to replace in zeroing session.

 

[Jackal8]

If it’s sunny, a normal paper target with the black centre is fine, the temperature difference is enough to see it properly at 100m, if you can shoot with the sun behind you or at least from the sides.

 

[finnbear270]

I can never understand why some people go through all these fangled systems.

Foil tape 2" wide, angle board very slightly to the sky, VOILA! even in fog.

 

[Mungo]

Pizza box with a inch hole cut in the lid then a hand warmer stuck to the back inside the box

I like this one!

Going to try that.

 

[mikek207]

If it’s sunny, a normal paper target with the black centre is fine, the temperature difference is enough to see it properly at 100m, if you can shoot with the sun behind you or at least from the sides.

I’m in the Highlands so….

 

[Drum123]

Clout nail knocked into a board and then heat up the head with a lighter. Small , precise aiming point. Cheap and easy.

 

[jthyttin]

I can never understand why some people go through all these fangled systems.

Foil tape 2" wide, angle board very slightly to the sky, VOILA! even in fog.

I have to zero / practice on a range that has roofing over targets (or let's say it's far more convenient than other ranges).

Up to 50m or so, on sunny day, regular white/black target works OK (on my scope, and I use 10 meter air rifle/pistol targets attached to backing cardboard).

Foil generally doesn't bring anything to table, because of the roof. And I prefer targets that work in all conditions including rain and winter. Same would go for indoor ranges that some in UK seem to use.

 

[finnbear270]

IR torch shining at foil on target, won't cool down, and usable indoors even in full darkness.

 

[weblyish]

Finding this thread fascinating for all the innovative solutions. I love a bit of home electronics and pretty sure there must be a way with a couple of AA batteries and some wire you could rig up a suitable sacrificial/replaceable heat source

Battery pack on the floor. A meter of 20G/2 copper to a pair of clips
A short disposable section of single strand wire or tin sheet cut or coiled to your chosen target size

Challenge is seeing the POI if it's not on the target