brass cases, what gives first?

Tikkat1x

Well-Known Member
what in people's opinion gives in first, split necks, case separation or lose primmer pockets,
im thinking of getting an annealer and i know its also to do with constant neck tension, and prolonged life, but no point buying one for longevity of the brass if lose primmer pockets or case separation
rears its ugly head first,

thanks.

lee
 
From a very amateur perspective, I'd say primer-pockets might give first if your load were at the higher-pressure end. Case-heads might separate first if you were routinely sizing the cases too short for your chambers.
Overall, my call would be that there are too many variables to say - but on the whole annealing is a Good Thing: so whyever not?
 
Last edited:
For the price of cases. I don't see the point in annealing them. Be reloading 30 years. Never did it yet.
I annealed my TR cases after the 8th firing, and they're now on the 14th. No idea whether it made any difference, but I did it on a borrowed machine so no major capital outlay. If the primer-pockets are still OK then, I might do it again after 16th firing.
 
I annealed my TR cases after the 8th firing, and they're now on the 14th. No idea whether it made any difference, but I did it on a borrowed machine so no major capital outlay. If the primer-pockets are still OK then, I might do it again after 16th firing.
What cal and cases
 
I have just started annealing because I have just started getting the odd split neck after around 6 or 7 reloads. Currently using just a blow torch and eyeballing the process, zero expense and quite good results.

No signs of case head separation and primers pockets are still good so far.
 
What cal and cases
good points, 223, i FL size every time, trim my brass back to 1.750" bump the shoulder 2 thou, no hot loads, as i started with a shed load of brass, Hornady, Sako, ADI and Norma, im only on my second firing of the sako and hornady, 5th on ADI, so not come across any problems yet,
im not adverse to spending money on the annealer, i spend money like a sailor on shore leave :lol:
was just wondering if it was the right move or not with regards to my reasons above, knowing me i will get one just for the sake of it:D
 
good points, 223, i FL size every time, trim my brass back to 1.750" bump the shoulder 2 thou, no hot loads, as i started with a shed load of brass, Hornady, Sako, ADI and Norma, im only on my second firing of the sako and hornady, 5th on ADI, so not come across any problems yet,
im not adverse to spending money on the annealer, i spend money like a sailor on shore leave :lol:
was just wondering if it was the right move or not with regards to my reasons above, knowing me i will get one just for the sake of it:D
Trouble is I can't borrow an annealer off a friend, as I don't know anyone who has ever used one. But if someone wants to anneal some for free! 😁
 
My answer may cause greater worry than a definitive cause. I have had necks split on the first firing annealing solved that. I haven't had case head separation, primer pocket's gone loose at 9 firings. Annealing is worth the work in terms of brass life.
 
My answer may cause greater worry than a definitive cause. I have had necks split on the first firing annealing solved that. I haven't had case head separation, primer pocket's gone loose at 9 firings. Annealing is worth the work in terms of brass life.
Only cal I've had that had split neck cracks were 17 remington. And that were after around 6 reloads.
 
Consider chamber dimensions, factory versus custom etc etc. I've got Lapua brass splitting necks at 8th firing (twice annealed), because I mistakenly skimmed them for "consistency" for use in a no turn chambering (highest standard of work).
 
My new calibre 45/70 , when I couldn’t get new brass I managed to get hold of some used cases that someone had shot black powder in.

I scrupulously cleaned them & tumbled them to get them shiny.

I then FL sized them using Hornady Case Lube that I’ve used previously on 243.

But about 20 cases after I minimally flared them, the bullet head when seated dropped into the bottom of the case and I had to used the ‘Hammer of Shame’ to dismantle them.

I think the brass on these 20 have been stretched and resized to the limit so I’ve discarded them.

The others from the same batch that I bought were ok.

It was just a faff dismantling them but I suppose that’s the chance you take buying pre-loved brass at 30p a case.

I have been able to buy new brass recently but it’s a £1 per case which seems pricey !

Mind you some factory are £3 a shot but they’re hunting loads.

Has anyone else had any experience of 45/70 ?
 
I think it depends on calibre, 17 rem case necks will go 1st, annealing reduces these allot, 260 loaded hot will be primer pockets, 22.250 case head shows after quite allot of firings but id throw cases after about 10-12 firings, only my experience of course.
 
what I’ve found from only ever reloading centre fire ammo is that annealing “seems” to help keep a consistent neck tension and shoulder bump when sizing and seating. I’ve never had a split neck even after reloading some pieces of brass 14-15 times, each time they have been annealed. I’ve not done actual tests to see any difference.

I’ve had primer pockets give up on me on occasions and I’ve had 2 partial case head separations with the same pieces of brass.

Stick to bumping shoulder 4 thou at the very most, use bushing dies with the correct bushing or a honed die for your chamber as to no over work your necks and a piece of high quality brass should be good for 20-25 reloads providing you not loading high pressure rounds
 
Back
Top