BSA CF2 trigger creep

[Essexsussex]

So I’ve got my cheap 270. And it was cheap. A BSA 270 and even with scope rings and a scope. It shoots fine. Will be 1”.

The trigger is not like a husqvarna trigger though!. It’s got loads of travel before it goes tight to then squeeze it. I think this is described as creep.

Is there any fixing it? Or is that the way they are. It isn’t impossible to live with. But it could be better.

Thanks British CF experts.

 

[nun_hunter]

I had a BSA CF2 I restored. The trigger was initially as you have found. I took it out gave it a really good clean and it adjusted it. There are two screws, one for trigger pull weight and one for sear engagement (creep). It took a bit of fine tuning between both screws but I got it down pretty decent but was still a bit notchy. I ended up taking the whole trigger apart and polished the sear and it transformed the trigger into a very nice trigger, zero creep, crisp break and not heavy at all.

I did plenty of reassembling and bump testing throughout to ensure it was safe.

There are still quite a few spares about for not a lot of money so I wasn't too worried if I messed it up as could always start again.

It's definitely an easy job to tackle yourself if you take your time and use the internet for research as there is loads of info out there.

 

[Essexsussex]

Thank you.

I had a BSA CF2 I restored. The trigger was initially as you have found. I took it out gave it a really good clean and it adjusted it. There are two screws, one for trigger pull weight and one for sear engagement (creep). It took a bit of fine tuning between both screws but I got it down pretty decent but was still a bit notchy. I ended up taking the whole trigger apart and polished the sear and it transformed the trigger into a very nice trigger, zero creep, crisp break and not heavy at all.

I did plenty of reassembling and bump testing throughout to ensure it was safe.

There are still quite a few spares about for not a lot of money so I wasn't too worried if I messed it up as could always start again.

It's definitely an easy job to tackle yourself if you take your time and use the internet for research as there is loads of info out there.

That’s really helpful. I’ve a few months before this one comes out for the hinds so I’ve got time to strip the (very heavy and agricultural) stock and wire wool and chem blue the barrel, and look at the trigger.
It’ll be a grand rifle with that trigger work done.

I had a BSA CF2 I restored. The trigger was initially as you have found. I took it out gave it a really good clean and it adjusted it. There are two screws, one for trigger pull weight and one for sear engagement (creep). It took a bit of fine tuning between both screws but I got it down pretty decent but was still a bit notchy. I ended up taking the whole trigger apart and polished the sear and it transformed the trigger into a very nice trigger, zero creep, crisp break and not heavy at all.

I did plenty of reassembling and bump testing throughout to ensure it was safe.

There are still quite a few spares about for not a lot of money so I wasn't too worried if I messed it up as could always start again.

It's definitely an easy job to tackle yourself if you take your time and use the internet for research as there is loads of info out there.

NH - do you have the trigger out of the gun to adjust or can it be done in situ? Thanks

 

[HonestJohn]

where’s Brithunter!

 

[Essexsussex]

where’s Brithunter!

I know!

 

[nun_hunter]

Thank you.

That’s really helpful. I’ve a few months before this one comes out for the hinds so I’ve got time to strip the (very heavy and agricultural) stock and wire wool and chem blue the barrel, and look at the trigger.
It’ll be a grand rifle with that trigger work done.

NH - do you have the trigger out of the gun to adjust or can it be done in situ? Thanks

It was adjusted in situ as needed the bolt in and cocked to check but I took it out completely to clean with carb or brake cleaner and to polish the various parts.

 

[nun_hunter]

BSA CF2 .308 Restoration

After selling my Sako 75 in 308 and Tikka T3 in 243 to fund a Tikka T3X Tac A1 Creedmoor I thought I was done with getting more rifles as I wanted one rifle to do it all, long range targets, long range vermin and also just a good rifle for deer stalking. The Tikka in Creedmoor is brilliant, love...

www.thestalkingdirectory.co.uk

 

[Smellydog]

Cf2's should have decent trigger feel. It's there somewhere, just got to find it. Their double set unit is perfect in my opinion.
Good rifles.

 

[Essexsussex]

Cf2's should have decent trigger feel. It's there somewhere, just got to find it. Their double set unit is perfect in my opinion.
Good rifles.

I have seen the double set but they are more than the gun cost to buy! I’ll fettle this one as per nun hunter and see what happens. Thank you.

 

[Essexsussex]

Next question CF2 fans. It won’t eject.

I’ve order an ejector spring, how do i sort this out? Assume bolt apart. Any special tools required?

Thank you!

 

[Smellydog]

Next question CF2 fans. It won’t eject.

I’ve order an ejector spring, how do i sort this out? Assume bolt apart. Any special tools required?

Thank you!

Items 22&23 might be seized.

 

[Essexsussex]

Items 22&23 might be seized.
View attachment 354807

Thank you. It’s been sitting ages. A good dose of carb cleaner etc?

 

[Essexsussex]

I need to buy some imperial Allen keys too…

 

[nun_hunter]

Next question CF2 fans. It won’t eject.

I’ve order an ejector spring, how do i sort this out? Assume bolt apart. Any special tools required?

Thank you!

I don't think from memory there is anything specialist required. YouTube showed me all I needed and the rest was just carefully taking bits apart and noting where they came from. Plenty of carb or brake cleaner to get all the old crud out then little to no oil on rebuilding so as not to attract dirt and bits.

 

[Essexsussex]

I don't think from memory there is anything specialist required. YouTube showed me all I needed and the rest was just carefully taking bits apart and noting where they came from. Plenty of carb or brake cleaner to get all the old crud out then little to no oil on rebuilding so as not to attract dirt and bits.

Thank you. Just watched someone take an ejector out of a rem bolt. Looks similar and not tricky.
Stock stripped and oiled last night (more to go!) nice walnut under the varnish. Before and after below.
Liking this gun more and more. A big heavy barrel compared to modern rifles.

 

[nun_hunter]

Looks really nice, mine was a much lighter colour and nowhere near as nicely grained as yours.

 

[Essexsussex]

Looks really nice, mine was a much lighter colour and nowhere near as nicely grained as yours.

Thanks. I’ve put a lot of red gun oil into it.

 

[Smellydog]

Proper PH mounts too. Bit low for my liking.
" Red gun oil"....you haven't used ATF fluid have you?

 

[VSS]

Proper PH mounts too. Bit low for my liking.

Looks just about right to me!

 

[wanderer]

My deer rifle is a 308 BSA CF2 with the double "set" trigger. I used to struggle with the normal trigger but to be fair i never got it fettled. For the last few years i have used the set ( hair) trigger. Absolutely brilliant but you have to have your wits about you. Only engage it before just ready for the shot. Dont put your finger anywhere near the trigger until ready for the shot.
If the shot isnt taken for whatever reason then carefully open the bolt and the live round and fire of the set trigger with the bolt open. Otherwise you are walking around with a UXB..