CF2 set trigger reassembly problems

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cf2fan

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As my screen name suggests, I really like the BSA CF2. They are not common where I live but they are very underrated and a great value, in my humble opinion.
This particular rifle has a regular trigger pull of 2 lbs. consistently and the set trigger goes off with very light pressure. I have no problems with this performance at all.
The bolt would not come out of the receiver no matter how I manipulated the triggers. I was assured by a local "gunsmith" that he knew how to fix it. A couple of days later, he tells me he can't find a problem but he can't get the trigger assembly back together! I was very upset and took my rifle out of there. None of the parts seemed damaged or modified. By using online drawings and diagrams, I was able to put it back together but I can't figure out how the 2 springs (the hammer spring and the sear spring) are oriented and how to install them. The parts diagrams don't show specific positioning. Is there a trick to reassembly? Does anyone have a diagram or drawing that shows the correct position? What is the correct way to remove the bolt from a CF2 with a set trigger?
I am kicking myself for using a gunsmith that I am not very familiar with and I am more than a little embarrassed. I do have some mechanical ability but I'm certainly no expert. Don't laugh at me too hard but I deserve it a bit.

Thanks for any help
 
Ronin,
That is a really good cutaway schematic, I will file it for my older BSA triggers. Mine is the the later set trigger.
Thank you for your help.
 
Not sure if it is at all relevant to the CF2 but reading about the older Royal model triggers in the Frank de Hass book on bolt action rifles he says-

"The trigger mechanism is used to disengage the sear (bolt stop) so the bolt can be removed. Here is what takes place: To begin with the bolt must be closed and the striker let down, leaving the sear pivoted below the bolt. To withdraw the bolt the sear must be held down in this position, which is done by pulling back on the trigger firmly and holding it back while the bolt handle is raised and the bolt withdrawn. Pulling the trigger back firmly causes the trigger to tip the trigger pawl forward against the lowered trip lever to hold this lever down. The sear has no separate spring of its own and if the sear lever is held down by continued firm pressure on the trigger the sear will remain down of its own weight so the bolt can be removed."

The silhouette diagram of trigger parts in the book looks identical to the diagram that Ronin posted. The book does give further information on trigger adjustment so perhaps it may be worth a look. I'm not positive but I think that I may have seen this book in pdf form on the internet at one time.
 
I cant remember having an issue removing my cf2 bolt, it was thirty years ago but I do remember struggling to remove my little bsa hunter in hornet. Until a friend showed me to decock it and then hold the trigger back before attempting to remove the bolt.
Cant help with the springs but would love a go.
How about taking lots of pictures from different angles??
 
I too had a CF2 (varmint barreled rifle in .243w) some thirty plus years ago and had forgotten about the need to de-cock the bolt before removing the bolt until I looked it up. Then I remembered that you pull the trigger back very firmly and hold it right back when withdrawing the bolt.
 
Thank you all for the bolt removal info, I will give it a go when I get this trigger back together.
Smellydog, I am not so good at posting pictures but I will try.
 
I been away from the computer a bit. I’m having troubles trying to post pictures and I still have the trigger assembly issue but I think I found an older master gunsmith who has a really good history of working on older English rifles.
Thanks to the forum for the previous help, I really appreciate it.
 
I’ve had some computer problems but hopefully they have been fixed.
After a month, I visited the gunsmith mentioned in post #9 for an update on my trigger issues and not only did he not even look at the trigger, he couldn’t find my parts for a long time. When he did, he then informed of that he would not get to it for at least 12 weeks. Needless to say, I was quite frustrated and took my parts out of there.
Does anyone know of a gunsmith familiar with BSA set triggers that is willing to put this one together correctly?
I don’t mind shipping it to them and paying for their time.
I just seem to be spinning my wheels and wasting time and gas in my locality.
Thanks.
 
Also, I tried looking for CF2 set triggers and CF2 standard triggers. They seem to be extremely hard to find and out of stock everywhere.
 
enfieldspares said:
Surely he who has bust it should bear the cost to fix it? Knibbs now tradings as The Countrystore maybe has a replacement unit?

www.airgunspares.com

BSA CF2 Set Trigger Unit Assembly Part No. 634600

BSA CF2 Set Trigger Unit Assembly. Set Trigger Mechanism Assembly Complete.May require slight fitting and adjustment once fitted to rifle. This spare fits the following models: CF2
www.airgunspares.com www.airgunspares.com
Click to expand...
He should but I don’t want anything to do with that gunsmith.
Knibbs/Countrystore is out of stock on these triggers.
 
Smellydog said:
I can't see how it is that difficult to put back together??
Click to expand...
You'd be surprised. I once stripped a Steyr-Hahn 1911 pistol and whilst before you could apply the safety with the hammer cocked afterwards you had to slightly pull the hammer back to do so. Only a tad but somehow the intimate positioning of them something never did go back right despite stripping and restripping a dozen times. The only pistol I've ever thrown across a room in frustration.
 
Smellydog said:
IMG_0024.webpIMG_0025.webpI can't see how it is that difficult to put back together??
Click to expand...
I tried a couple pictures. Airgunspares.com shows a good parts diagram and I see where the 2 springs go get pinned on the same pin but it does not show where the legs of the 2 springs go. The housing is a closed unit and VERY difficult to work in.
First, trigger housing with pen showing the location the 2 springs are pinned on.
Second, components overlaying housing and the 2 springs.
 
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