Car Buffer

It is only aa tin box do something else more worthwhile with your life. From a tin box designer of 52 years experience. The tin box will not thank you.
 
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depending upon how much knowledge you have on using one depends on what to go for, if your knowledge is minimal i would suggest going for a DA as they're a lot more forgiving. a rotary polisher isn't.

regarding polishing your car to bring a shine back, need to ensure you have no contaminants on the surface so prior to polishing you want to use a fall out remover and clay bar the car too.

MY DA is from Rupees and my rotary is a bluepoint one. both been faultless but coming up 10 year old now, there may be better on the market.
 
And don't forget, there's always the possibility that the paint film ain't as thick as you think it is........
That's probably not so important if you're using something non abrasive like Simoniz wax, but beware of products that "remove traffic film instantly", or anything described as a "polish"...

D
 
depending upon how much knowledge you have on using one depends on what to go for, if your knowledge is minimal i would suggest going for a DA as they're a lot more forgiving. a rotary polisher isn't.

regarding polishing your car to bring a shine back, need to ensure you have no contaminants on the surface so prior to polishing you want to use a fall out remover and clay bar the car too.

MY DA is from Rupees and my rotary is a bluepoint one. both been faultless but coming up 10 year old now, there may be better on the market.
This. ^^^^^

"Detailing" a car takes a fair amount of knowledge and skill, not to mention the right products and processes for using them.

I see a lot of cars/trucks over here that have flaking, rusting or oxidized finishes because somebody was using either a cheap buffer and/or used an expensive random orbital with variable speed control, but didn't know what they were doing. (And it usually takes a couple months before it really starts to show.)

Anything that isn't pure wax (preferably carnauba) is an abrasive. Which means whenever you "polish" something, you are removing material, however slight. Over time it will remove too much if not careful.

"Polishing" should be done rarely. Washing, regularly. Wiping off surface contaminants almost daily if not garage kept (with a fresh microfiber towel; never use one that is dirty or contaminated).

This company has a pretty good "How-to" section (granted they are pushing their own products, but they do provide good information).

How-To Topics - Griot's Garage

They're probably one of the top of the line products (of maybe 3) that are used on very high end and/or collectible cars here in the US. I've been using their stuff for 10+ years now. Expensive? Yes. Worth it? Every penny.
 
If this type of "detailing" is new to you then a DA (Dual Action) Polisher like the type from RUPES (if you are rich) or the below option from DAS (if not so rich ;) )

DAS-6 PRO v2 Dual Action Polisher

As said above - decontamination is CRUCIAL to avoid destroying your paintwork and be careful on flat paint (no lacquer) as you can burn through this stuff if done repeatedly so use your hand to touch the panel and ansure you are not burning the paint away, lukewarm is fine but hot is not good!

Have fun and enjoy the results!
 
Thinking of buying an electric car buffer/polisher. Has anyone used one that they would recommend??
If you have never mopped a car before then you could well burn through the lacquer or if it is a solid colour that also.
THB I would give it a good wash and buy some hand glaze, we would leave the masking on when flat and polishing as the compound flicks in every corner and you would spend more time cleaning.

Trust me the adverts for this are not how it is!
Back in the day the G3 G6 splatter would leave a neat line on your work clothes lol
 
Thank you for all the advice. My truck is white but the paint is very oxidised and rough to the touch so I have just started using a clay bar on it.
 
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