Case prep, order in which you would perform the Neck Turning operation

[DCG]

I don’t want this to degenerate into a discussion about the merits or otherwise of neck turning, suffice to say, I’ve given it consideration, purchased the equipment and I’m going to give it a go, mainly to uniform the necks rather to adjust neck tension. Then I’ll find out for myself. So ideally I’d appreciate your views on the following.

My question is, in which order of case prep do you perform the operation. Initially I’ll be using good quality new brass, which once fire formed, I’ll continue to use neck sized rather than full length size.
so do you:

1. full length size or not
2. Trim to length and chamfer
3. neck turn

Also, at a later date, I may try it on another caliber I load for in which case I’ll be using used brass, which has been fire formed in the rifle that I’m using and would therefore prefer to just neck size it, which I would usually do along with de priming before tumbling then chamfering, trimming for length, etc.

Also, if annealing at which point in the process would you perform this operation.

Thanks in anticipation.

 

[jb1]

Not sure if the pro's do it this way but,
Trim length, full length resize new brass, use the mandrel with the K&M neck turning kit then neck turn and thats it.

 

[Davee]

New or preferably once fired, deprime, clean, neck size with Mandrel, trim, neck turn, neck size then check trim and chamfer. The Mandrel opens the neck slightly, giving very little neck tension, so resize after turning. Theoretically the mandrel forces all imperfections -doughnuts etc- to the exterior where they can be trimmed off. At this point you can fit a dial gauge to check on the wall thickness you have and decide what you want it to be. Ensure you get the correct angled cutter for your cartridge and just kiss the shoulder, do not cut into it -creates a weak spot- but don't leave a bit of unturned neck -creates doughnuts -. Remember you are only uniforming the neck, not sizing it for BR shooting with a custom throat so the majority of cases will probably not be cut all the way round. Needless to say do every case you own to the same dimensions. If you find a case that doesn't get cut all, either ditch it or, redo all of them from scratch. It's a bit of a faf but only needs to be done once. I found that even brand new Lapua case had variations in neck wall thickness, the worst were some of the american brands.

 

[jcampbellsmith]

A. Anneal
B. Steel pins clean
1. full length size - non-bushing die
2. Trim to length and chamfer
3. neck turn
4. Ultrasonic clean

Is my current process.
Regards
JCS

 

[Rusty Gate]

Not sure if the pro's do it this way but,
Trim length, full length resize new brass, use the mandrel with the K&M neck turning kit then neck turn and thats it.

If your resizing after trimming surely any bump back has reduced the case length by the same ammount

 

[DCG]

Thanks for your replies everyone. It’s interesting to see who does what when and some of the reasoning behind doing it. Obviously I did a bit of research on line before asking the question, as everyone seems to have a different method/sequence Based on their own experiences.

 

[jb1]

If your resizing after trimming surely any bump back has reduced the case length by the same ammount

Being as its for neck turning and its a one off process, i personally never been concerned about case length.
I resize all new cases, so for me it a matter of doing what ive always done, my process is for unfired cases, if im prepping fired cases then yes trim is the last thing to be done.

 

[jcampbellsmith]

Being as its for neck turning and its a one off process, i personally never been concerned about case length.
I resize all new cases, so for me it a matter of doing what ive always done, my process is for unfired cases, if im prepping fired cases then yes trim is the last thing to be done.

My Sinclair neck turner indexes on the neck length, so consistent neck length is important to me. Also my trimmer indexes on the case shoulder.
Regards
JCS

 

[nun_hunter]

As mentioned above if you're using the K&M you'll need to use the mandrel before you use the cutter to even out any imperfections in the neck. This will open the neck more than you want for seating the bullet with the right tension so you have to size the neck after. The K&M also uses the neck length to adjust where the cutter stops relative to the shoulder so you have to get a uniform case length first or your cutter will either go too deep into the shoulder on some and not far enough on others.

I can't speak for other systems but with the K&M it's trim to length first, expander mandrel, cut the necks then resize necks with a bushing die to achieve the tension you want.

 

[Klenchblaize]

As mentioned above if you're using the K&M you'll need to use the mandrel before you use the cutter to even out any imperfections in the neck. This will open the neck more than you want for seating the bullet with the right tension so you have to size the neck after. The K&M also uses the neck length to adjust where the cutter stops relative to the shoulder so you have to get a uniform case length first or your cutter will either go too deep into the shoulder on some and not far enough on others.

I can't speak for other systems but with the K&M it's trim to length first, expander mandrel, cut the necks then resize necks with a bushing die to achieve the tension you want.

Spot on. It's why I purchased a decent trimmer as I found my old RCBS (press down and clamp case rim) unit to be far from perfect.

K

 

[NP435]

I don’t want this to degenerate into a discussion about the merits or otherwise of neck turning, suffice to say, I’ve given it consideration, purchased the equipment and I’m going to give it a go, mainly to uniform the necks rather to adjust neck tension. Then I’ll find out for myself. So ideally I’d appreciate your views on the following.

My question is, in which order of case prep do you perform the operation. Initially I’ll be using good quality new brass, which once fire formed, I’ll continue to use neck sized rather than full length size.
so do you:

1. full length size or not
2. Trim to length and chamfer
3. neck turn

Also, at a later date, I may try it on another caliber I load for in which case I’ll be using used brass, which has been fire formed in the rifle that I’m using and would therefore prefer to just neck size it, which I would usually do along with de priming before tumbling then chamfering, trimming for length, etc.

Also, if annealing at which point in the process would you perform this operation.

Thanks in anticipation.

Anneal. full length size unless you use a separate decap die and do that first, neck turn , trim chamfer and deburr. if your neck sizing any way do that not full. I just noticed that in your post. best wishes for good shooting.

 

[Rusty Gate]

Being as its for neck turning and its a one off process, i personally never been concerned about case length.
I resize all new cases, so for me it a matter of doing what ive always done, my process is for unfired cases, if im prepping fired cases then yes trim is the last thing to be done.

Set die to bump back two thou on a fired case, trim after sizing. Your chambers the ideal I go with

 

[DCG]

Great response guys. It’s amazing how much in sight you get, even from the little snippets, some elements of the process I hadn’t even considered. Hopefully it’ll prevent me from wasting a load of time and as importantly good brass.
Much appreciated.
DCG