Chainsaw not cutting straight

[countrryboy]

Well said above was, on both posts.
Oregon files are not wot they used to be.

Must admit I made a complete aunt of a chain the other day, 80 rubs it got yesterday alone and still like holding on to a f**king machine gun.

Found a slightly damaged but newish chain in bottom off piece bag, cutting rubbish thought I'd give rakers an extra rub with flat file before having a go after I sharpened it, forgetting a brand new sharp flat file.
Dunno wot I was thinking had to sharpen half the chain away just to try an hold on to the bloody thing.
Every day is as school day, althou I don't expect to be making school boy errors when I really should know better!!
Moral of story go easy on rakers and use proper guides to get them right, does make a saw quite unsafe if there too low.

No idea about the science of chains and grinders but I do think it makes hem harder to sharpen.
Very few harvester boys even attempt to touch up adull chain by hand now if machine sharpened, u now get automatic grinders do it all themselves, move the chain on and alter grinder angle, but just doing it in 1 hit.
A few folk started businesses just sharpening harvester chains on these fancy new auto grinders

Talking about the chrome, glass used to always be the worst thing to hit, sometimes would strip the chrome right of a cutter


I'm actually buying 2nd hand chains off a cutter who has stopped bothering to sharpen his small saw chains, ( 18- 20") running that new husky X cut chain or 325 Pico ( 325 but 1.3mm/050 guage)
I buy the husky stuff new of local dealer new and it's not bad to sharpen, but he uses Oregon stuff ( think 95?) and it is a bugger to sharpen that 1st time
After that not so bad

 

[glasshalffull]

But I bet the Mrs appreciates it when he takes his sweaty shirt off...

Gets rid of the beer gut

 

[Tim.243]

I buy that.

What about the wheel rolling microscopic flakes of chrome onto the part of the tooth that the file meets (which is usually just steel)? The counter to that, of course, is the same as one's objection to the carbide inclusion hypothesis...

Oh Carl.......

 

[countrryboy]

I think that's wot u call a square grind sharpen, not really taken off in this country.
All angles completely different

Must admit different mentality over there with there big bars, 32" to cut 20" trees just bonkers.
Lugging round a big heavy saw bet 90cc + and an awkward cumbersome big bar.
Bugger that.
Over here most folk would use a 40-50cc saw and 15,,"bar and be almost as quick but not as tired at the end of the day.
Plus not buying a bloody expensive, saw bloody expensive bar and more chain to sharpen

 

[teyhan1]

I used to own a garden machinery shop and have ground many thousands of saw chains.
The problem is that people just don’t know how to use them.
1st is chain ID
2nd that tells you what size grinder wheel to use
3rd you will need to look up sharpening angles for that particular chain
4th don’t heat up the chain.
5th check the rakers
6th learn how to dress your bar.

With regards to chain oil, it has an additive that makes it adhesive/stringy. If you have some put a bit between your finger/thumb and when you separate them look at the strings. This stops it from being thrown off the nose of the bar. Don’t forget that those chains are doing 10000 rpm.
Oil enters the bar at the top. Without the additive the majority will spray off at about the 9 o’clock position of the nose. With the additive it stays on. Without additive the bar will wear quickly and will heat up. When you get a chain heat seizure, it is due to the bar expanding, not the chain.

 

[rem284]

I think that's wot u call a square grind sharpen, not really taken off in this country.
All angles completely different

Must admit different mentality over there with there big bars, 32" to cut 20" trees just bonkers.
Lugging round a big heavy saw bet 90cc + and an awkward cumbersome big bar.
Bugger that.
Over here most folk would use a 40-50cc saw and 15,,"bar and be almost as quick but not as tired at the end of the day.
Plus not buying a bloody expensive, saw bloody expensive bar and more chain to sharpen

Yes, I have an 880 which is 121cc. It's a pain just thinking of using it and costly.

My favourite saw is the wee husky 346 with the 15 inch bar, it does most jobs

Next is the 560. Ive got a 20 and a 18 inch bar. This saw would be great if it didnt take the huff every now and then. 5 series huskies can be a pure b@st@sd to start when hot. Last time I used it was felling large sitka. At the end of the 1st day I had 4 trees left. I knew the wind was to be strong the next day and would be blowing against the desired felling direction of one of them. Well, the 560 said it had worked enough for one day and wouldn't start. So no option but to leave and come back. Sure enough wind was against me, owner of site in a panic to get them felled so got a rope and machine on it. 560 starts fine from cold. Only thing was machine wouldn't pull it over. High lift wedges in, still wouldn't go over. Jack in the back just about over but jack slips out at last minute. Tree rocks back and a moment of panic as I think this is going to break the hinge and go the wrong way. It didn't so jack back in and eventually over she went, spot on. A lot of extra fcuking about just because 560 would start when conditions were good

I am considering getting a stihl 500i but at just over a grand I will think for a bit longer

 

[countrryboy]

That sounds a pure **** off a day.
It's getting all ur gear to the top of the hill is the problem, those jack's aren't light, bloody brilliant thou.
I've actually gave up on my high lift wedges, used to love them but since I swapped shafts to plastic they just don't drive in the same and then shafts pop out when ur giving them some severe malky.
Back on to those nylon 1s and doubling them up, really impressed with them they have sat in an for years and never been used till recently ( plus some old steel 1s, that everyone tells me are banned)

Just as in stalking wind is an absolute killer or ur best friend.

I've had the same ideas as u about the 500, everyone raves about it BUT they reckon u can't carry enough petrol to keep it going, went to be savage.
Decided, well almost decided to get a ms462 instead, althou thought it would be a bit cheaper than the 500 , but they offered me a really good price so only 100 quid more for 500.
It's purely the petrol issue put me off, just dunno how u can easily carry 2 cans in every day over forestry sites plus ur other gear, esp if u haven't left ur saw in from night before

I just bought 2 2nd hand huskies there after saying I wouldn't have another with an external clutch, a 550 and 560, price was right and done bugger all.
Still very impressed with them and on that small chain cut well.
Infact thinking about seeing how big a bar I can get for 560 only for emergency use, been told 6 trees at the top of hill to fell that I've never seen and heaps of brashing to do on way down, I'm to old now to go brashing with my big saw

 

[rem284]

I had a go of a 500i, it was awesome. It had a 25 inch bar, was not noticeably heavier than the 560 but seemed alot faster and loads of power. One of the attractions is no carb problems

 

[countrryboy]

The 462 is a quality saw too thou, that doesn't drink fuel for fun.
U hear off cutters going throu 9 litres of fuel some days

 

[Odders]

I picked up a chainsaw (Husqvarna 266) for the first time in nigh on a decade today.
Spent half an hour reducing a 20' plum with a 12" trunk & similar sized damson to 12" long logs & a pile of small (<1.5") branches.
My only thought was it's harder to forget how to correctly operate a chainsaw than it is forgetting how to ride a bicycle.
Mind you; I spent nigh on 5 years running 262's & 266's for 40-60 hours a week 35-40 years back.