Custom knifes ??

Invest in a decent blade thats suits your species and then buy a victorinix for bone laden work they are a cracking blade I use a 5” lamb blade with a steel and its brilliant
 
That’s true I do that… but you still have to make the initial cut at the back of the head and or in the belly. In a rutty stag that’s often gritty. I’ve never had an issue with bones though as your usually cutting flesh and tendons round the bone and then simply parting. I mean it would be great to do all that in the larder but it needs to be practical for some fairly brutal abstraction and no quad bike…..
No, you don't have to make an initial cut at the back of the head. Apart from when you're removing the lower legs, the only cut you need to make from the outside is a tiny nick just in front of the pizzle (where there's generally a little bald patch anyway) to get the point of the knife in. Everything else can be done cutting from the inside outwards.
 
Last edited:
I don't do the volume of deer that I used to but when I did I used a 9 dollar knife I bought in the USA in the 70s. The egde angle was 30 degrees, not razor sharp but remained sharp for many deer. It only had a 3" blade and it would rip through a fallows sternum easily. You should be able to dissemble a deer with a penknife, without having to cut bone if you know what you're doing.
I do like my Stuart Mitchell knives though and if I'm doing boar the the blade is more likely to loose a bit of edge because of the sh1t and sticks in the boars coat that by hitting any bone.
I still have my 9 dollar knife It has great sentimental value and a reminder of many past stalks.
 
Just chatting to a custom knife maker over in Croatia I’ve bought a couple off in the past about a little 3” hunter. One of his more popular knives and said a customer butchered a whole bear with one!
 
No, you don't have to make an initial cut at the back of the head. Apart from when you're removing the lower legs, the only cut you need to make from the outside is a tiny nick just in front of the pizzle (where there's generally a little bald patch anyway) to get the point of the knife in. Everything else can be done cutting from the inside outwards.
I'll have to try that thanks
 
  • Like
Reactions: VSS
I use a danum blades roe catcher weekly on both deer and boar.
Stropping just becomes part of routine maintenance of the blade. It holds its edge for longer than the much cheaper knives I’ve had then again it was 20x the cost and the edge certainly doesn’t last 20x as long.
Personal preference and budget I would say, but if you’re using a blade week in week out a custom knife is such a nice thing to have as it becomes part of you and your everyday kit.
 
I use a danum blades roe catcher weekly on both deer and boar.
Stropping just becomes part of routine maintenance of the blade. It holds its edge for longer than the much cheaper knives I’ve had then again it was 20x the cost and the edge certainly doesn’t last 20x as long.
Personal preference and budget I would say, but if you’re using a blade week in week out a custom knife is such a nice thing to have as it becomes part of you and your everyday kit.
Yep that’s how I do my Danum blades that’s all they need 👍
 
Just chatting to a custom knife maker over in Croatia I’ve bought a couple off in the past about a little 3” hunter. One of his more popular knives and said a customer butchered a whole bear with one!
Have you a link to the guy in Croatia please

Cheers

Phil
 
I feel like this is overstating things a bit. I've battoned logs into kindling with a Mora and it's been shaving sharp afterwards. I also split chickens lengthways in the kitchen with a big sabatier kitchen knife - i.e. straight through the breast bone - and it just needs a touch of steel afterwards. I haven't butchered a rabbit for a long time so perhaps I am underestimating the toughness of rabbit bones.

I was sort of thinking the same. Rabbit bones aren't that tough. I've used a cheap kitchen knife for it with no issues. I wonder did the post OP get a dodgy heat treat on a Fallkniven F1. Those knives shouldn't be that brittle
 
I'm interested in people's real life experiences with custom knifes the likes of emberleaf, stuart Mitchell...

@Boydie
@Stuart Mitchell

I have an Emberleaf - it never (and I mean never), leaves the house.


IMG_1585.JPG

I also have a beautiful 'pair' of knives made by Stuart Mitchell.

IMG_6543.jpg

I took them out once, and had the misfortune of shooting a Roe Buck.

This meant that I got blood and snot on them. 😖

These knives now live in the house.

I also have a 'loan' knife from Stuart Mitchell (I must get that back to him), and that has gralloched Gnu in Africa, dressed a variety of stuff in the Skinning Shed, and Red Stags in the Highlands.

IMG_2707.jpeg

Frankly, I can only be trusted with an Opinel knife; as I just lose them - the Highlands and Islands are littered with my knives.

Understand now why those works of art stay at home?
 
I was sort of thinking the same. Rabbit bones aren't that tough. I've used a cheap kitchen knife for it with no issues. I wonder did the post OP get a dodgy heat treat on a Fallkniven F1. Those knives shouldn't be that brittle
Give it a go - get a rabbit leg and hack at it.

I thought the same: I emailed Fallkniven to complain, and they were having none of it. I got a very clear message back saying I had misused the knife.

I then sent it off to a former member on here who knew about knives to get it resharpened. He confirmed that I’d brought the damage on myself.

When I say hacked, I mean chopped at the mid point of the bone, as you would with an axe or cleaver.

I defy anyone to do this with any stalking knife and not damage it.
 
@Boydie
@Stuart Mitchell

I have an Emberleaf - it never (and I mean never), leaves the house.


View attachment 389660

I also have a beautiful 'pair' of knives made by Stuart Mitchell.

View attachment 389661

I took them out once, and had the misfortune of shooting a Roe Buck.

This meant that I got blood and snot on them. 😖

These knives now live in the house.

I also have a 'loan' knife from Stuart Mitchell (I must get that back to him), and that has gralloched Gnu in Africa, dressed a variety of stuff in the Skinning Shed, and Red Stags in the Highlands.

View attachment 389669

Frankly, I can only be trusted with an Opinel knife; as I just lose them - the Highlands and Islands are littered with my knives.

Understand now why those works of art stay at home?
I love the last one with the grey micata scales. I’ve a couple from Stuart but they’re both kitchen knives. Would love one of his hunters. The knife steel he uses is very good.
 
This is mine. It's based on a traditional bush knife pattern, apparently. The sheath was customer made for me too. I have a couple of Mora knives that work perfectly well for a fraction of the cost. I just think it's beautiful, and unique to me as it's the only one to be made with Damascus.

20250209_132342.webp20250209_132315.webp
 
I would agree with earlier comments on use; if just unzipping a beast the edge probably doesn’t need much touching up that often.

I have today processed, and I mean butchered / broken down into kitchen ready to cook cuts, one of our fat lambs- using a basic Victoria fillet knife. Hitting lots of bone, deboning and filleting, meant I was regularly touchin up on the chef steel. Unavoidable in butchering tbf. I don’t think the steel in higher end knives (which I own a Few of) would fair a substantial amount better.
 
I think it also depends on which part of the blade is doing what.
Last 1.5” of blade to tip I use for unzipping (usually removing a small strip of belly skin so I have a clean opening) and then the rest of the blade to the hilt for cutting the sternum / removing legs and head.
This saves to tip and that remains very sharp whilst I ding need the rest of be quite as sharp.
This is on a fallkniven phk which has a thick 3G blade and an edge at 30 degrees.
 
Back
Top