Dirty primer pockets

The case obturates upon firing so creating a seal against any powder ingress to the chamber walls, the bullets travel perhaps sucks the gases up the barrel?
Hello mate .-)

So basically a back draft of the bullet would be dragging along the (potentially) barrel damaging residue from dirty primer pockets into the barrel?
But intially the combustion of the powder would create a draft going the other way though no? And wouldnt that possibly blow the dirty primer residue back into the chamber first, making the residue more distant to the case/bullet travel, and less concentrated too, thus making the residue less likely to be pulled into the barrel by the bullet backdraft and less likely to very concentrated, unless build up over time happens. But would that effect not have been known by now, if it was out there and real ? :-|

Anyways interesting thought experiment. 👍 :)
 
This is curious. Was the research clear in distinguishing a difference between the primer residue which is an unavoidable consequence of firing a round, and the effect of pre-existing primer residue which is adhered to the inside of the primer pocket being blown down the barrel from reloaded rounds? Was there any distinction found between the physical properties of primers using different chemicals? For example DDNP non-lead styphnate type compared to conventional? Presumably the physical properties must differ somewhat?

I'm not quite clear on the mechanism for transmission of this residue from its starting position inside a primer pocket. It's dislodged/vapourised, exits the gap which may exist (or not) between detonating primer and case primer pocket, it then turns the corner into the case and exits into the barrel, presumably behind the main mass of deflagrating powder, so there is presumably less abrasive force applying it to the barrel?

It would be interesting to read this research.
The idea that the primer causes the barrel wear seem against all logic to me. I cannot believe the small amount of explosives in the primer has a greater effect than the propellant, bullet, gasses and pressure that is exerted on the barrel from normal firing.
 
I am currently using a wet tumbler and SS media, previously used various US cleaners on .223/6.5 & .308 but I always have carbon deposits left in the primer pocket. I´ve been using an RCBS pocket uniformer to get the last bits of crud out, there´s gotta be a better way.

I´d appreciate recommendations.

Thanks
Tumble them for longer, stainless tumbling should get brass like new.

Are you using any kind of cleaning solution or just water? D64907FB-3B2F-4168-B214-0E3E324F7AF6.webp
 
I'm using barrel brite. 1/2hr then water change and then another 1/2hr, my rubber barrel is identical to yours. Brass is amazing, its just the pockets that don't clean. I'm gonna try just SS pins rather than a mix of pins and balls.
 
The idea that the primer causes the barrel wear seem against all logic to me. I cannot believe the small amount of explosives in the primer has a greater effect than the propellant, bullet, gasses and pressure that is exerted on the barrel from normal firing.
Hello mate, well i have heard it claimed that there are some abbrassives (glass? ) components in some primers, but even if there is, which i am not sure is the case, i would still like to understand how exactly they manage to become a problem for a barrel. :-|
 
I did these .22 Hornet cases today, 2.5 hours of tumbling using cold water with ss pins and a dash of fairy liquid plus a soup spoon of kettle descaling citrus powder.
On the top is before cleaning and on the bottom is after cleaning & rinsing in fresh water.
 

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Lee make a primer pocket cleaner just a tuft of wires. Does a very good job. I use this prior to ultrasound clean on my .204 cases.
D
 
Lemon fairy plus a shake of lemishine into hot water - tumble for 4 hours, they come out like new. That’s been my process for 15 years and thousands of rounds.
 
I did these .22 Hornet cases today, 2.5 hours of tumbling using cold water with ss pins and a dash of fairy liquid plus a soup spoon of kettle descaling citrus powder.
On the top is before cleaning and on the bottom is after cleaning & rinsing in fresh water.
I use hot water, it reduces the time to 20-40 minutes depending on numbers of cases. The turn out in the same condition as yours 👍🏻
 
Hornady primer pocket cleaner - I've found it to be very effective and quick when compared to RCBS and other primer pocket tools. I get that many of you get really good results with your respective ultrasonic or metal pin media methods, but as a simple tool to spin around and get the pocket 'good to go', this little tool is excellent, in my opinion.

 
mine primer pockets are spotless after 20 mins in the ultrasonic cleaner, with a drop of fairy and a teaspoon of citric acid, and after iv resized them and what not, they get 2 hours in a dry tumbler because we all know 2 things, shiny brass is sexy, and shoots much better, 😉
 
I'm using barrel brite. 1/2hr then water change and then another 1/2hr, my rubber barrel is identical to yours. Brass is amazing, its just the pockets that don't clean. I'm gonna try just SS pins rather than a mix of pins and balls.
I’d ditch the barrel brite, add a squirt of fairy liquid and a half teaspoon of citric acid to warm water, tumble for 2-3 hours depending on number of cases and then just rinse. That’s what I do and they come out like new, if I cut it shorter the primer pockets aren’t clean.
 
On firing the burnt priming compound is baked on to the area surrounding the flash-hole in the primer pocket. If it's not removed every time it builds up in successive layers as a crust. This interferes with primer seating, and can cause inconsistent ignition. For many years I've used one of these to do two jobs at once by substituting an up-ended RCBS brush (which has the same thread) for one of the case neck brushes. It's a chore, but it's a necessary step.:(
 

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I use the Lyman primer pocket reamer hand held tool. You need to get the carbon out to ensure uniform primer seating.
 
I use the Lyman primer pocket reamer hand held tool. You need to get the carbon out to ensure uniform primer seating.
You don't need you just prefer , so long as the flash hole is clear , a couple of tho' at the most if any . You don't want to a real cruddy one though something that is actually rare in my experience. Don't think i don't clean , its just i do the bare minimum of a turn or so by hand and check the flash hole is not blocked with cleaning media after tumbling etc
 
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