First knife nearly finished...

PSE Composites Limited - The next level Rifle Stocks
Brave or stupid mate? :lol: I was kinda hoping you might show up on this thread tbh, as from what Ive read on SD you really know your stuff and are very well respected in this area. Hope I can learn more from you and get better as I go on. Many thanks for your comments:)
 
Thats really nice! I like the shape, and I agree the tit doesn't need the lanyard tube. If that's your first attempt at grinding a bevel it is a very good effort.
 
Sheprador1973 said:
Brave or stupid mate? :lol: I was kinda hoping you might show up on this thread tbh, as from what Ive read on SD you really know your stuff and are very well respected in this area. Hope I can learn more from you and get better as I go on. Many thanks for your comments:)
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Very kind, thank you. please do ask if you need any advise. I have been very lucky as "Emberleaf" are very close nieghbours and have become good friends. They have been so generous with help and tips etc. they even loaned me an hour or two of their workshop on one knife. When you use really good equipment then you can produce very nice stuff. keep up the good work and remember "fit and finish" are very important.
Tusker
 
Ah, so you must be out west of me? Im in East Sussex. Yes, those guys certainly know their stuff, you did well to get to learn from them too. When you know what goes into it and the cost of the materials I think people would no longer consider their work expensive IMHO. And point taken on the equipment...my homemade grinder works ok but have noticed with some weights of belt there can be a 1mm wobble (side to side). Thats enough to muck up a decent plunge line or bevel Ive found! Mind you Im a big fan of the 'make it to make it' philosophy...might have a go at a KMG clone in the future but with a 3HP 3 phase motor, VFD and some proper machined ally wheels. Thanks for all the tips mate ;)
 
Brilliant finish for a self made knife, well done! Can I ask, what 'style' of sheath you have in mind ? a belt loop with fastener, a deep tube style to cover the handle, or a blocked type that lets the knife slide into position, I like the type of sheath that sports the saddle stitch in heavy cotton, to my mind it looks so strong and uniform, What ever you choose if it works out as well as your knife, jobs a goodun.

BC.
 
bullet chucker said:
Brilliant finish for a self made knife, well done! Can I ask, what 'style' of sheath you have in mind ? a belt loop with fastener, a deep tube style to cover the handle, or a blocked type that lets the knife slide into position, I like the type of sheath that sports the saddle stitch in heavy cotton, to my mind it looks so strong and uniform, What ever you choose if it works out as well as your knife, jobs a goodun.

BC.
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Thats a very good question BC! Not sure. Have a made a couple before, one for the ill-fated TBS knife which I ballsed up big time with too much Fieldings dye, but the best was a simple wet-formed Nordic dangler type that I made for a Bahco folding saw. The difficulty I have with sheaths tbh is a) fingernail marks (always use gloves and a clean surface) and b) lining up the stitch holes through 3x3mm of leather, 3mm each side and then the welt. Will try to glue it all up and then drill through the lot with 1mm bit this time I think no I have a pillar drill...those pronged stitching forks are a little inconsistent in my limited experience.

Having carried a 'gralloching' knife now while stalking Im wondering if a belt loop is either practical or necessary. If you have the pockets, maybe a simple symmetrical sheath with a 'press fit' would be sufficient?

Thanks for your comments/interest mate! :)
 
Sheprador1973 said:
Thats a very good question BC! Not sure. Have a made a couple before, one for the ill-fated TBS knife which I ballsed up big time with too much Fieldings dye, but the best was a simple wet-formed Nordic dangler type that I made for a Bahco folding saw. The difficulty I have with sheaths tbh is a) fingernail marks (always use gloves and a clean surface) and b) lining up the stitch holes through 3x3mm of leather, 3mm each side and then the welt. Will try to glue it all up and then drill through the lot with 1mm bit this time I think no I have a pillar drill...those pronged stitching forks are a little inconsistent in my limited experience.

Having carried a 'gralloching' knife now while stalking Im wondering if a belt loop is either practical or necessary. If you have the pockets, maybe a simple symmetrical sheath with a 'press fit' would be sufficient?

Thanks for your comments/interest mate! :)
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Cool knife. Takes patience to make something like that.

Pricking irons are great but they are limited with certain weights of leather. Like you say, hammering through 10mm of veg tan is hard going. Heating the prongs up and then holding them on some beeswax helps to encourage them back out once hammered through.

Many people do drill but you then lose the diamond pattern from the stitching when threading through circular drilled holes. Try drilling first, using your pricking iron as the marker for the holes. Then once drilled, use the pricking iron on either side to produce the diamond holes. They only need to be a couple of mm deep each side. Then when you saddle stitch, remember to pull one side of the thread upwards and the other downwards to give the desired finish. Form is fine but function is better. Like knives I guess. The most important thing is that they are sharp and shaped correctly for the job in hand. If you can then add form, all the better.

Die wise, Fiebings die is ok but make sure you use the oil stuff and not water based. Better still, find some unique through died veg tan. I have some nice 3.4mm chestnut I need to do something with. I am taking a break at the moment but I can see a few projects happening soon.

Good luck with the knives. It's fun making your own stuff.
 
Cottis said:
Cool knife. Takes patience to make something like that.

Pricking irons are great but they are limited with certain weights of leather. Like you say, hammering through 10mm of veg tan is hard going. Heating the prongs up and then holding them on some beeswax helps to encourage them back out once hammered through.

Many people do drill but you then lose the diamond pattern from the stitching when threading through circular drilled holes. Try drilling first, using your pricking iron as the marker for the holes. Then once drilled, use the pricking iron on either side to produce the diamond holes. They only need to be a couple of mm deep each side. Then when you saddle stitch, remember to pull one side of the thread upwards and the other downwards to give the desired finish. Form is fine but function is better. Like knives I guess. The most important thing is that they are sharp and shaped correctly for the job in hand. If you can then add form, all the better.

Die wise, Fiebings die is ok but make sure you use the oil stuff and not water based. Better still, find some unique through died veg tan. I have some nice 3.4mm chestnut I need to do something with. I am taking a break at the moment but I can see a few projects happening soon.

Good luck with the knives. It's fun making your own stuff.
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Many good points Cottis. I agree the diamond holes are desirable from a finishing pov. Will take your advice and thank you for it! :)
 
Great looking knife, these threads have raised my interest in going down this road, but I have never done anything like it, the closest I have come is making my own fly rod:)!
I have seen a belt sander on Amazon, but rather than going out and starting to buy equipment blindly do you are any other posters have any advice please.
I'm semi-retired so I have plenty of time on my hands.
Cheers
Richard
 
devon deer stalker said:
Great looking knife, these threads have raised my interest in going down this road, but I have never done anything like it, the closest I have come is making my own fly rod:)!
I have seen a belt sander on Amazon, but rather than going out and starting to buy equipment blindly do you are any other posters have any advice please.
I'm semi-retired so I have plenty of time on my hands.
Cheers
Richard
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Hey Richard and thanks for your post.

I'd go for it mate...very nice way to spend an evening, especially with the nights drawn in and utter rubbish on tele

I'm no expert at all and sure other more knowledgable members will be on soon to put you right.

I would suggest perhaps making a handle or two for a ready ground and HT'd blank. A quick search online and you'll see Mora, Knivegg etc do some very cheap blade blanks. Then you just need some wood, epoxy, some liners perhaps and LOTS of sandpaper!

If you do fancy diving straight in to grinding your own blades I'd strongly suggest practicing on cheap mild steel first...trust me it will not go to plan immediately.

Then, if you do want to do it 'seriously' you will need to either buy or make a belt grinder. Most people seem to choose one that takes 2x72" belts. Look on YouTube for videos on how to build one or theres a US based website called DC knives that I referred to regularly. It also has knife designs that might inspire you. To buy a decent belt grinder you are looking at a serious outlay of £, great if you can afford it and the best ones are very well built. Also, look at Jacklore's videos on YouTube, hes very good and explains what he does well IMO.

Lastly, there are a few places online to buy bits and pieces. Ground Flat Stock is particularly good and their service is excellent.

Hope I haven't overwhelmed you mate. Feel free to contact me if you need any help at any stage. ATB, Paul
 
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