Fitting a scope level
- Thread starter kieran222
- Start date
Scope Level
This guy makes a living from shooting and his background he should know his stuff.
Ultimately you want to co witness the level to the reticle, skme shooters will have them offset because they naturally cant their rifles but they'll be in sync with the reticle.
Be wary when tightening the bolts on the scope level, some are REAL filldy and will put your bubble off level, its a fine balance where depending on the type of level you set it up off level and tightening the screw brings it level
This guy makes a living from shooting and his background he should know his stuff.
Ultimately you want to co witness the level to the reticle, skme shooters will have them offset because they naturally cant their rifles but they'll be in sync with the reticle.
Be wary when tightening the bolts on the scope level, some are REAL filldy and will put your bubble off level, its a fine balance where depending on the type of level you set it up off level and tightening the screw brings it level
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Fit one of these to the Picatinny rail, then you can move it from rifle to rifle.
Regards
JCS
Regards
JCS
I always wonder about this but never really bothered as I don't shoot long enough range for this to be an issue to me personally.
It sounds like people set up a rifle based on the rail or action being level to plumb and then plumb the scope (vertical stadia) and then attach bubble level to agree with the plumbed vertical stadia. Am i interpreting that correctly? Does that then mean that people set this up in relation to the rifle rather than themselves. What I mean is that do they then have to alter their own personal hold/setup etc to match the "level" of the rifle. Everyone is different and probably shoots in different positions. Would it be better to set the scope up to be plumb when they are in their natural shooting position and then once this is done, set the bubble level up to agree with the vertical stadia. You could then always bring the scope to bear square on the target whilst being in repeatable comfortable position.
Always wondered about this as it is not something I am familiar with. Just seems counter intuitive to have to match your shooting style to the rifle/scope, rather than the other way round. Or am I misunderstanding something about how rifles shoot or what level means? My mind tells me that as long as something is done consistently, it will be fine but I struggle with 3D logical thinking on these things.
Is there an assumption that the centre of the bore is aligned perfectly with the action or rail. The middle of which also aligns perfectly with the centre of the bore. Is that important? I cannot make my head understand the variables involved here. Can someone give me a foolproof explanation please?
Basically, if the vertical stadia is set up plumb to gravity and a corresponding bubble level is set up to agree with the scope which also coincides with the shooters natural position, is that ok or is there some important rifle build stuff or axis points I have no clue about?
It sounds like people set up a rifle based on the rail or action being level to plumb and then plumb the scope (vertical stadia) and then attach bubble level to agree with the plumbed vertical stadia. Am i interpreting that correctly? Does that then mean that people set this up in relation to the rifle rather than themselves. What I mean is that do they then have to alter their own personal hold/setup etc to match the "level" of the rifle. Everyone is different and probably shoots in different positions. Would it be better to set the scope up to be plumb when they are in their natural shooting position and then once this is done, set the bubble level up to agree with the vertical stadia. You could then always bring the scope to bear square on the target whilst being in repeatable comfortable position.
Always wondered about this as it is not something I am familiar with. Just seems counter intuitive to have to match your shooting style to the rifle/scope, rather than the other way round. Or am I misunderstanding something about how rifles shoot or what level means? My mind tells me that as long as something is done consistently, it will be fine but I struggle with 3D logical thinking on these things.
Is there an assumption that the centre of the bore is aligned perfectly with the action or rail. The middle of which also aligns perfectly with the centre of the bore. Is that important? I cannot make my head understand the variables involved here. Can someone give me a foolproof explanation please?
Basically, if the vertical stadia is set up plumb to gravity and a corresponding bubble level is set up to agree with the scope which also coincides with the shooters natural position, is that ok or is there some important rifle build stuff or axis points I have no clue about?
If I'm reading your post right...some pro shooters set their rifles whilst holding the rifle at a slight cant eg in their position. The rifle/barrel/bullet is just a series of tubes and spherical objects so in theory you could hold the rifle at 25° but the scope needs to be plumb with the world/horizon
I'll not be so crass or antagonistic to suggest the fitting of these is but one more distraction from learning to shoot, as I acknowledge it's the little things at long range that make a big difference. However, there's no doubt in my mind it's more important at woodland stalking distances to develop a consistent 'hold' of one's rifle than worrying about a floating bubble.
K
K
With any level first you need to check if it is "true" over the years I have brought a few and the same thing was to take it to the counter at the builders merchants lay it on the counter top note where the bubble was then 180 and check.
If it was a different reading then I went and picked a different one.
A simple test which many will not know as it is a level must be right, no different than checking you digital Vernier is reading 000 with the faces closed.
None of this matters if you way of holding the rifle is cocked, I will put the rifle on my quad sticks with a level on the fence "set level" and turn the scope X hairs so they match the level.
In the end you must have a way of repeating the same thing each time, poor mount is the starting of a poor shot.
kieran222
Well-Known Member
It's not for woodland stalking, as its not relevant at those distances. It's for 500 yards and beyond. Perfectly happy with my technique for woodland stalking as I shoot lots and have been doing it for years. I'm looking for feedback for the question asked.
Then you need to check the scope is level in a gun vice the table is level that it sits on, check the scope level is good via reversing it on a level surface then clamp it on your scope so the bubble is middle in the lines.
It is certainly relevant at 100m with a.22LR at targets of 3” or less
I can’t see it being any less relevant at the same distance with a centrefire
We might well tolerate those inconsistencies whilst stalking at short ranges
However they are still present and become more exaggerated the higher the scope mount
The scope needs to be level with the real world- a slight rifle cant for ergonomic reasons is not uncommon so long as that cant is consistent and the scope is aligned correctly
I use a plumb line for the real world vertical and ensure that the bubble reflects that
I can’t see it being any less relevant at the same distance with a centrefire
We might well tolerate those inconsistencies whilst stalking at short ranges
However they are still present and become more exaggerated the higher the scope mount
The scope needs to be level with the real world- a slight rifle cant for ergonomic reasons is not uncommon so long as that cant is consistent and the scope is aligned correctly
I use a plumb line for the real world vertical and ensure that the bubble reflects that
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kieran222
Well-Known Member
This is the biggest issue I have had, fitting the level securely and keeping it level.
kieran222
Well-Known Member
I am happy that the scope is fitted level and as low as possible as I took plenty of time fitting it with various levels. As you say, definitely relevant at 100yrds for a 22lr. The question relates to my 308 for longer distances and is more about avoiding errors due to "cant" assuming that the scope is already level.
I’d deffo use a bubble with your 308
Mine are all mounted on the scope itself
One is a pully-out version so less likely to be knocked in transit
kieran222
Well-Known Member
What type of level is this and does it hold level after removing and refitting.
By coincidence I recently fitted one as it came with a job lot of scope mounts I purchased from an SD member:
My only suggestion is to first fit it to the scope before the unit is installed on the rifle. I used the flat base of the scope (beneath elevation turret) to align while sat on a surface that had first been trued with several spirit levels.
This of course assumes the horizontal crosshair sits true to the scope housing but I've trusted Zeiss to have got this right.
K
One similar to this
warnescopemounts.com
I ensure rifle is level
Then level the reticle of the scope against a plumb line @ 100m
Then adjust the bubble level to be centre of lines when scope in line with plum line
Thereafter that device remains on the scope and becomes my vertical/cant reference
USL30 Warne Universal Scope Level, 30mm
Since 1991, Warne Scope Mounts has offered best-in-class firearm-specific fitments made in the U.S. Shop scope mounts, rings, rails, bases, bipods and more.
warnescopemounts.com
I ensure rifle is level
Then level the reticle of the scope against a plumb line @ 100m
Then adjust the bubble level to be centre of lines when scope in line with plum line
Thereafter that device remains on the scope and becomes my vertical/cant reference
Are you going to check your results with and with out as conditions "having a bad day" as an example for me I stopped going foxing after a days pigeon shooting 1 I was tired 2 where you just pull the trigger say 150 times I found I would miss due to snatching the trigger on the rifle. So I have kept them separate ever since. And still miss lol
Is it Illumined for those very first/last bits of light Richard?
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