Fridge gambrel rail.

[TheOldTool]

So like many new to the game and small scale stalkers, I will be using a standard sized larder fridge for chilling and aging. These are domestic fridges and I wondered how people deal with fabricating a decent rail or hook to hang the gambrel from? I have some ideas, as the fridges generally have small support ridges for shelves near the top, but wondered if anyone had thought of something better than my ideas.

Thanks

 

[Essexsussex]

I made two timbers with a piece of galvanised hand railing between them, hole saw in each timber to fit the pole.
Glossed the timber and siliconed to the wall, resting on top of the shelf support ridges taking the force
This allowed me more height than just using the shelf support ridges.
Hung a lot of weight from them (large fallow buck in 2 pieces!) and all good
Some advice from someone on here is that the rail should be further to the back than half way. So I did that and I agree

 

[jcampbellsmith]

I bought a stainless steel rod that was longer than the fridge is wide and it just rested on the shelf slot.

Regards

JCS

 

[Tim.243]

So like many new to the game and small scale stalkers, I will be using a standard sized larder fridge for chilling and aging. These are domestic fridges and I wondered how people deal with fabricating a decent rail or hook to hang the gambrel from? I have some ideas, as the fridges generally have small support ridges for shelves near the top, but wondered if anyone had thought of something better than my ideas.

Thanks

YES
I used a piece of ladder cut to a H, I cut the centre piece and found I piece to go inside so I could make it the right width for the fridge moulding's.
Had a 66kg Fallow on it, or just cut a length of box/tube 2mm over the width and tap it along to where you want it.
With big deer and hanging from the hocks you loose the length on the leg in space below

 

[Essexsussex]

Like this

 

[Essexsussex]

You’ll need a swivel s hook or one of tim243 ring piece hangers of shooting long deer like fallow

 

[patjack]

Enlarge the photo and you will see left & right the 2 pieces of 18mm stokboard, these are compressed with the 2 bars that are galvanised, drill the stokboard halfway through with the correct size bit and assemble and slide into place on to the top shelf section. The compression alone will hold everything in place and can be removed easily for cleaning, timber is not really suitable as not so good for hygiene and if you fix it with silicone this is not easily removed if you want to clean properly.
Tested to 50kg with no issues.
I believe it's a very easy job for anyone with basic DIY skills.

 

[Essexsussex]

Enlarge the photo and you will see left & right the 2 pieces of 18mm stokboard, these are compressed with the 2 bars that are galvanised, drill the stokboard halfway through with the correct size bit and assemble and slide into place on to the top shelf section. The compression alone will hold everything in place and can be removed easily for cleaning, timber is not really suitable as not so good for hygiene and if you fix it with silicone this is not easily removed if you want to clean properly.
Tested to 50kg with no issues.
I believe it's a very easy job for anyone with basic DIY skills.

timber is fine if glossed properly and siliconed with a continuous bead. Although this does look a superior solution.

 

[Haggis Hunter]

I just hang a couple of roe on the metal wine rack my SH fridge came with, sheer luck that it had one as I was looking at all sorts of other more high-tec options.
hh

 

[weblyish]

To avoid wood if you aren't much of a metalworker you can buy a sample of composite decking for a quid or two. Or even a whole composite joist for a tenner and you have strong, sawable screwable washable mould resistant material to work with

 

[Spikelet]

A couple of sections of old laminated work top and an piece of clothes rail sits at the top of the shelving rack

 

[TheOldTool]

Thanks, my ideas were along the same lines, I was looking at the keyclamp solution, but that works out quite pricey if you need to build and A frame each side to support the bar. I like the section of ladder idea, and @tim243, your special custom hooks seems very good....but I would still need a rail at the top.

Food for thought, thanks again

 

[Freeforester]

If you have a bit galvanised plate, a length of pipe, an old broom handle to plug the pipe for the screws and a couple washers…

 

[TheOldTool]

I like that…….might have to pop into my local fabricators……..

 

[pazmino]

I started off with a construction of two planks and some curtain rail, which lasted me for a good ten years and supported a fallow and a roe with no problems, but then I saw on here (can't remember whose it was) a very solid construction using unistrut, which will see me out:

 

[Greenmist]

I just drilled through the sides of the fridge, secured the bar and siliconed around the bar

 

[Tim.243]

I like that…….might have to pop into my local fabricators……..

A tenner says you will be still undecided by xmas lol

 

[TheOldTool]

The unistrut looks like the way.....pretty cheap as well. Many thanks!

 

[Jim Hutton]

My solution to avoid strain on the fridge was to drill a hole through the top of the fridge and put a hook and bolt through the hole which I secured to a ceiling rafter. That way there is no strain or weight on the fridge carcass thus avoiding any distortion of the fridge.

 

[TheOldTool]

Yes, have seen that done, but was a bit unsure about puncturing the lining, what may be up in there etc......I know someone who ****ed their fridge with one tiny hole in the back panel.......