General gun cleaning

[Somersetdk]

So last night I treated the foxing gun to a clean and it took around 30 patches and 5 brush cycles and still had very slightly dirty patch at the end (the one in my hand) rifle has only shot around 30 rounds since the last full clean.
Using boretch eliminator and also allowed it to soak in for 10 mins after each brush. Is it normal to take this long or has anyone got any tips to speed things up?

Also what are people using to clean the chamber and action?

Cheers !

 

[mealiejimmy]

Just last week, I had the pleasure of watching Calum Ferguson of Precision Rifles cleaning the barrel of my Tikka T3 in 22-250.
He did this because he had borescoped the barrel and wanted it clean so he could examine the barrel in more detail
This was his method:
1, No bore guide used - and in his opinion, none needed
2, Butches boreshine liberally applied to a bronze bristle brush and the brush then worked vigorously up and down the full length of the barrel for around 10 strokes.
3, Dry patched until patches came our clean
4. KG-2 bore polish liberally applied to another bronze bristle brush and the brush then worked vigorously up and down the full length of the barrel for around 10 strokes
5. Dry patched until patches came out clean
When he put the borescope back into the barrel he had to turn the illumination down because the barrel was so shiny!

When I asked him about putting the boreshine onto a patch and leaving the barrel to soak while wetted with boreshine. he replied that he doesn't have enough time for that
Given how clean the barrel was after he had done his thing, I wasn't about to argue with the master!!!

Cheers

Bruce

 

[mark2853118]

So last night I treated the foxing gun to a clean and it took around 30 patches and 5 brush cycles and still had very slightly dirty patch at the end (the one in my hand) rifle has only shot around 30 rounds since the last full clean.
Using boretch eliminator and also allowed it to soak in for 10 mins after each brush. Is it normal to take this long or has anyone got any tips to speed things up?

Also what are people using to clean the chamber and action?

Cheers !

I use the same products and regime; it also takes the same amount of time and I am amazed how much stuff comes out spread over so many patches.

 

[Somersetdk]

Just last week, I had the pleasure of watching Calum Ferguson of Precision Rifles cleaning the barrel of my Tikka T3 in 22-250.
He did this because he had borescoped the barrel and wanted it clean so he could examine the barrel in more detail
This was his method:
1, No bore guide used - and in his opinion, none needed
2, Butches boreshine liberally applied to a bronze bristle brush and the brush then worked vigorously up and down the full length of the barrel for around 10 strokes.
3, Dry patched until patches came our clean
4. KG-2 bore polish liberally applied to another bronze bristle brush and the brush then worked vigorously up and down the full length of the barrel for around 10 strokes
5. Dry patched until patches came out clean
When he put the borescope back into the barrel he had to turn the illumination down because the barrel was so shiny!

When I asked him about putting the boreshine onto a patch and leaving the barrel to soak while wetted with boreshine. he replied that he doesn't have enough time for that
Given how clean the barrel was after he had done his thing, I wasn't about to argue with the master!!!

Cheers

Bruce

Good to know I currently have nylon brushes and wonder if they're too soft, I do 10-15 brush strokes with each cycle but it just seemed never ending.
Took me about an hour and a half to get it half clean
I do use a bore guide, but also need to get stuff to clean the chamber as using a bore guide it bypasses all of this

 

[muddy42]

For the chamber, lugs and action I use Napier gun cleaner or meths on a large patch on a 20 bronze bore brush. Then oversized patches to mop it clean. Best to do this first to avoid pushing dirt down the barrel.
I generally find I can get a barrel clean in two cycles - a few brush strokes with solvent, soak, remove with meths and finally dry patches.
Others may disagree, but I am a fan of meths. It is really good at removing all traches of whatever solvent you are using. A bore guide is essential to avoid the solvent, meths or oil going into the action.

 

[Steff]

1, No bore guide used - and in his opinion, none needed

How can you expect that solvent which has been liberally applied to a bore brush will not drip into the action and trigger?

Use a bore guide when you are handling solvents!

 

[bogtrotter]

Cleaning! Please no swearing on SD

 

[Steff]

Cleaning! Please no swearing on SD

Who‘s swearing?

 

[bogtrotter]

Who‘s swearing?

Cleaning lol.

 

[mealiejimmy]

How can you expect that solvent which has been liberally applied to a bore brush will not drip into the action and trigger?

Use a bore guide when you are handling solvents!

That doesn't seem to bother someone who is generally regarded as the best riflesmith in the UK.
If it's good enough for him, it's good enough for me!
I should add that since cleaning the rifle, I see no adverse effects on the action or trigger


Cheers

Bruce

 

[Steff]

That doesn't seem to bother someone who is generally regarded as the best riflesmith in the UK.
If it's good enough for him, it's good enough for me!
I should add that since cleaning the rifle, I see no adverse effects on the action or trigger


Cheers

Bruce

Do as you like.
There‘s a reason I don‘t buy any used guns.

 

[DCG]

Just last week, I had the pleasure of watching Calum Ferguson of Precision Rifles cleaning the barrel of my Tikka T3 in 22-250.
He did this because he had borescoped the barrel and wanted it clean so he could examine the barrel in more detail
This was his method:
1, No bore guide used - and in his opinion, none needed
2, Butches boreshine liberally applied to a bronze bristle brush and the brush then worked vigorously up and down the full length of the barrel for around 10 strokes.
3, Dry patched until patches came our clean
4. KG-2 bore polish liberally applied to another bronze bristle brush and the brush then worked vigorously up and down the full length of the barrel for around 10 strokes
5. Dry patched until patches came out clean
When he put the borescope back into the barrel he had to turn the illumination down because the barrel was so shiny!

When I asked him about putting the boreshine onto a patch and leaving the barrel to soak while wetted with boreshine. he replied that he doesn't have enough time for that
Given how clean the barrel was after he had done his thing, I wasn't about to argue with the master!!!

Cheers

Bruce

Just a point of observation really, I use a couple of strokes with boretech carbon cleaner after every outing these days and copper remover every fifty shots or so, or when I’ve got time. I’ve found that carbon deposits seem to get harder the longer they’re left, up to twelve hours or so and it’s quite soft to remove, compared to leaving it for a week or more.

 

[Sagebrush]

You'd think anyone that can put a patch on a jag could put a rag over the mag.

 

[A Guy Out West]

The KG products are good, especially the carbon remover. If you want it done right use a bore guide, remove carbon, dry barrel, then use Ballistol Solo Roble Mil. You will have the whole thing done in 15 minutes max and I’m talking down to bare metal. If your really worried about the Ballistol stuff, you can neutralize with baking soda and water. Directions say you have no worries though. Try this once, you will never want for anything else.

 

[Steff]

The KG products are good, especially the carbon remover. If you want it done right use a bore guide, remove carbon, dry barrel, then use Ballistol Solo Roble Mil. You will have the whole thing done in 15 minutes max and I’m talking down to bare metal. If your really worried about the Ballistol stuff, you can neutralize with baking soda and water. Directions say you have no worries though. Try this once, you will never want for anything else.

+1 on KG1.
But please watch out with 'Ballistol Solo Roble Mil'. You're mixing up two things here. One is 'Robla solo' and the other is 'Ballistol'. Both carry the same manufacturer's 'F.W. Klever' label, I guess that's were the confusion comes from.
While Ballistol is a harmless white oil, Robla solo can really pit your barrel badly. It's happened to me, because I was too careless. It is indeed the most effective copper killer (better than KG 12), but please wash it out with Ballistol or another oil thoroughly, and don't forget the chamber.

 

[Sharpie]

Robla solo can really pit your barrel badly. It's happened to me, because I was too careless. It is indeed the most effective copper killer (better than KG 12), but please wash it out with Ballistol or another oil thoroughly, and don't forget the chamber.

That doesn't surprise me, if you look at the MSDS you will see that it includes as much as 5% nitric acid, 5% copper nitrate, as well as really toxic stuff such as selenium dioxide, as much as 10%. Definitely wear gloves when using this.

Ballistol of course, don't mention this, merely stating that it has ammonia plus "very special compounds", and even recommend plugging your barrel, filling it up with it and leaving it overnight. Hmm.

They also say that "Steel, chrome and nickel are not attacked by Robla Solo MIL." Somehow I doubt that. Carbon steel for example is strongly attacked by nitric acid.

Knowing a bit of chemistry, it could be potent stuff.

Ballistol would be useful to neutralise any traces, being alkaline. It is actually mostly just liquid paraffin AKA baby oil, together with soap to help it emulsify with water (alkaline salts of oleic acid), benzyl acetate (Jasmine scent), and some sort of vegetable seed oil. Not much use as a gun cleaner, but as a preservative, maybe. I honestly don't understand its reputation as being much use otherwise. Or drink it as a laxative I suppose.

Ballistol MSDS:



Solo Roble Mil MSDS:





I'll just stick with my trusty ammonia-containing Butch's Bore Shine, which seems to do pretty well on carbon and copper, since I have a large bottle of it and a little goes a long way. Also they make full disclosure in their MSDS as to the ingredients. I see nothing in there likely to attack steels. If its good enough for Callum Ferguson it'll do for me.

 

[Steff]

That doesn't surprise me, if you look at the MSDS you will see that it includes as much as 5% nitric acid, 5% copper nitrate, as well as really toxic stuff such as selenium dioxide, as much as 10%. Definitely wear gloves when using this.

Ballistol of course, don't mention this, merely stating that it has ammonia plus "very special compounds", and even recommend plugging your barrel, filling it up with it and leaving it overnight. Hmm.

They also say that "Steel, chrome and nickel are not attacked by Robla Solo MIL." Somehow I doubt that. Carbon steel for example is strongly attacked by nitric acid.

Knowing a bit of chemistry, it could be potent stuff.

Ballistol would be useful to neutralise any traces, being alkaline. It is actually mostly just liquid paraffin AKA baby oil, together with soap to help it emulsify with water (alkaline salts of oleic acid), benzyl acetate (Jasmine scent), and some sort of vegetable seed oil. Not much use as a gun cleaner, but as a preservative, maybe. I honestly don't understand its reputation as being much use otherwise. Or drink it as a laxative I suppose.

Ballistol MSDS:

View attachment 207959

Solo Roble Mil MSDS:



View attachment 207947

I'll just stick with my trusty ammonia-containing Butch's Bore Shine, which seems to do pretty well on carbon and copper, since I have a large bottle of it and a little goes a long way. Also they make full disclosure in their MSDS as to the ingredients. I see nothing in there likely to attack steels. If its good enough for Callum Ferguson it'll do for me.

View attachment 207957
View attachment 207958

Robla solo only becomes a problem if you let it dry out and let oxygen come into contact with the ammonia salt left in the barrel. If you use it properly it is one of the best barrels solvents there is.
As for Ballistol, you really have to discover its merits. I use it to scrub my barrels with bronze brushes after having wiped them out and left to soak with KG1. Just wipe out after the scrub. Perfect short-term rust protection and no first shot influence, other than with other oils.

 

[A Guy Out West]

+1 on KG1.
But please watch out with 'Ballistol Solo Roble Mil'. You're mixing up two things here. One is 'Robla solo' and the other is 'Ballistol'. Both carry the same manufacturer's 'F.W. Klever' label, I guess that's were the confusion comes from.
While Ballistol is a harmless white oil, Robla solo can really pit your barrel badly. It's happened to me, because I was too careless. It is indeed the most effective copper killer (better than KG 12), but please wash it out with Ballistol or another oil thoroughly, and don't forget the chamber.

Isn’t the Robla Solo Mil made by Ballistol?

 

[Steff]

Isn’t the Robla Solo Mil made by Ballistol?

Ballistol and Robla solo (mil) are two separate products both made by F.W. Klever.

 

[Steff]