Gun cabinet
- Thread starter Greener Jim
- Start date
No bother mate.
Thing is it's a both of a catch 22. You either do it on the first floor and have to reinforce your loft floor or do it on the ground floor and brick up a window!
I don't have a house I can do it in but if I know what to look for I can buy accordingly!
Thing is it's a both of a catch 22. You either do it on the first floor and have to reinforce your loft floor or do it on the ground floor and brick up a window!
I don't have a house I can do it in but if I know what to look for I can buy accordingly!
You know what? I don't think she would mind that much! My issue would be making it nice enough inside for a man cave. You don't even need planning permission below a certain size.....
simonl
Well-Known Member
Or bars on a window I guess? Seems good enough for gun shops. With a blind each side of the bars it could look acceptable
Cheers for the recommendation Hereford. Have you built gun rooms before?
simonl
Well-Known Member
Display Cabinets
18. Cabinets which may be considered to be suitable for the display of firearms, shotguns andammunition should be expected to provide resistance equal to:a) a cabinet manufactured and fitted as certified to comply with BS7558:1992 withlaminated glazing to BS5544 with a minimum thickness of 11.3mm; orb) a cabinet certified to Loss Prevention Standard LPS1175, Level 3.19. Cabinets which can be expected to provide these standards are most likely to be constructedby:a) cabinet case manufactured from not less than 2mm (14swg) steel, formed by eitherfolding, continuous welding or a combination of these methods with either post formed,welded angle or box section front frame; orb) 60mm x 60mm x 4mm thick mild steel angle forming all edges, top back & sides with2mm steel infill panels with box section front frame, all edges, joints and mitres, welded;c) steel box section door (eg 40mm x 40mm in a 1500mm x 650mm door) with postformed flange or continuously welded external steel bar beading of 20mm; d) locking side to have either post formed or a continuous seam welded overlap plate toprevent insertion of tools between door and frame along that edge;e) door to be hung on good quality steel hinges with captive pins and secured withengineers screws;f) a minimum of two hinge bolts of not less than 12mm diameter, welded and mounted topass through the section of the doorcase, located to provide maximum retention on thehanging side should an attack on the hinges succeed;g) glazing secured into door by solid steel internal beading/flanges (30mm x 15mm as inc above) screwed into section with 6mm diameter countersunk engineers screws at 50mmcentres;h) laminated glass panel to BS5544 (15mm in above case);i) locks should be mounted in cabinet frame and not in the door. Door to be slotted toreceive lockbolt only;j) fitted with two locks giving physical resistance to a level expected in BS7558.20. Where small firearms or concealed firearms are displayed, separate devices/fixtures shouldbe fitted to secure the exhibit(s) to the body of the cabinet.
sod that - more readable at
https://www.gov.uk/government/uploa...ta/file/117636/firearms-security-handbook.pdf
really good document, details gun rooms too I think
18. Cabinets which may be considered to be suitable for the display of firearms, shotguns andammunition should be expected to provide resistance equal to:a) a cabinet manufactured and fitted as certified to comply with BS7558:1992 withlaminated glazing to BS5544 with a minimum thickness of 11.3mm; orb) a cabinet certified to Loss Prevention Standard LPS1175, Level 3.19. Cabinets which can be expected to provide these standards are most likely to be constructedby:a) cabinet case manufactured from not less than 2mm (14swg) steel, formed by eitherfolding, continuous welding or a combination of these methods with either post formed,welded angle or box section front frame; orb) 60mm x 60mm x 4mm thick mild steel angle forming all edges, top back & sides with2mm steel infill panels with box section front frame, all edges, joints and mitres, welded;c) steel box section door (eg 40mm x 40mm in a 1500mm x 650mm door) with postformed flange or continuously welded external steel bar beading of 20mm; d) locking side to have either post formed or a continuous seam welded overlap plate toprevent insertion of tools between door and frame along that edge;e) door to be hung on good quality steel hinges with captive pins and secured withengineers screws;f) a minimum of two hinge bolts of not less than 12mm diameter, welded and mounted topass through the section of the doorcase, located to provide maximum retention on thehanging side should an attack on the hinges succeed;g) glazing secured into door by solid steel internal beading/flanges (30mm x 15mm as inc above) screwed into section with 6mm diameter countersunk engineers screws at 50mmcentres;h) laminated glass panel to BS5544 (15mm in above case);i) locks should be mounted in cabinet frame and not in the door. Door to be slotted toreceive lockbolt only;j) fitted with two locks giving physical resistance to a level expected in BS7558.20. Where small firearms or concealed firearms are displayed, separate devices/fixtures shouldbe fitted to secure the exhibit(s) to the body of the cabinet.
sod that - more readable at
https://www.gov.uk/government/uploa...ta/file/117636/firearms-security-handbook.pdf
really good document, details gun rooms too I think
That's why I am leaning towards the gun room idea. Seems much easier to secure a room with relatively basic DIY skills with the only tricky part installing the door.
Building a cabinet that fits all that criteria sounds like a massive ballache!
I want a mill mill and a lathe first mind so that takes priority!
Building a cabinet that fits all that criteria sounds like a massive ballache!
I want a mill mill and a lathe first mind so that takes priority!
Hahahaha no need. I was told by my dad, and I tell her, a man without a hobby cheats!
Hereford
Well-Known Member
Only one private one (I'm a clerk of works so oversee, check etc) - but have done a number of guard rooms, armouries, stand-alone cash points and more so of late, secure hard drive and data storage rooms. It's not rocket and quite straight forward whether from scratch or retro-fitting.
The home gun room is way up on my list too - we plan to move further out into the sticks eventually and I'd like to ease over into Wiltshire (God's shooting county and home of the mythical half hour variation!). When looking at properties I'll certainly be looking for and sizing up suitable 'rooms'
Sounds like you'll be hearing from me a lot when it comes to me actually sorting my room 
In my head it's the typical wood panelling and green leather within an armoured room. I could do that without securing the room of course but I would then have to keep the rifles in a safe which somehow doesn't appeal as much.
Maybe keep most of my rifles in a safe somewhere in the house but check the requirements on having one on the wall? Even if secured with some sort of security mount I suspect it's not a plausible idea as my FLO will likely just comment with "well you have a safe so just put it in there".
In my head it's the typical wood panelling and green leather within an armoured room. I could do that without securing the room of course but I would then have to keep the rifles in a safe which somehow doesn't appeal as much.
Maybe keep most of my rifles in a safe somewhere in the house but check the requirements on having one on the wall? Even if secured with some sort of security mount I suspect it's not a plausible idea as my FLO will likely just comment with "well you have a safe so just put it in there".
2-dead-in-the-air
Well-Known Member
Ive just started my gun room, which will be concrete block 100mm wall on all 4 sides with a timber rafter and slate roof, steel security door, would it be ok with the security mesh ( as Hereford has mentioned )
screwed to the inside wall and rafters and then ply, then plasterboard, then t&g pine or even maybe mdf sheets.
screwed to the inside wall and rafters and then ply, then plasterboard, then t&g pine or even maybe mdf sheets.
Only one private one (I'm a clerk of works so oversee, check etc) - but have done a number of guard rooms, armouries, stand-alone cash points and more so of late, secure hard drive and data storage rooms. It's not rocket and quite straight forward whether from scratch or retro-fitting.
The home gun room is way up on my list too - we plan to move further out into the sticks eventually and I'd like to ease over into Wiltshire (God's shooting county and home of the mythical half hour variation!). When looking at properties I'll certainly be looking for and sizing up suitable 'rooms'
Pffft, average for my last four is genuinely under 10 minutes!!
Hereford
Well-Known Member
Hereford
Well-Known Member
For the roof it's better to go with a sandwich of ply, mesh, then ply - below that then line with plasterboard.
For the walls, I would fix the mesh to the block work and then counter-batten and fix the ply to that - then go plasterboard - this'll also give you easy and substantial grounds in the wall for you to fix shelves, racks etc. The steel door set (frame and door) is exactly what you want - also think about a bit of passive through ventilation.
It's a good idea to get your FEO involved and show him your design intent - you are, after all, creating a large gun cabinet. You also don't say if this is a single storey extension, stand alone building (will need an alarm) or a room you're creating inside your existing house. If it's the latter, be careful here as you could be creating an inner room which may have building reg / fire exit implications - the fire exit implication being more for your own safety.
If you want any help or advice just drop me a pm - I'm not far from you
2-dead-in-the-air
Well-Known Member
Thank you Hereford, I will PM you.
simonl
Well-Known Member
I would consider active ventilation and/or humidity control with a dehumidifier pipe outlet. Choice of dehumdifier depends upon temperature of room
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