Quite also a long way to go and check exactly where the "splash" if you are trying to obtain or check a zero. It will need a support frame as if it falls over then another 400 yard round trip.Hmmm, MINIMUM range 200m. That‘s a very limited application for shooting with a thermal.
I guess it would be perforated if you move in closer. I have a different understanding of Hardox …
And can stand up to 308 at close range but it would concern me this 200m minimum distanceIf it’s hardox ( AR500 ) your only just take the paint off .
Its fantastic stuff .
Both calibres are a waste of powder, .222 good enough if you can shoot.Rated for 308 at 200 but what about fast fox calibres that penetrate steel more like 22250 or 220 swift?
I’m a 222 user great for fox, deer and targets but not great for penetrating steel though.Both calibres are a waste of powder, .222 good enough if you can shoot.
BTW is the company operational or tits up? Website doesn't work, even if you accept the certificate (that is for different domain) the site redirects to albionbusiness.com which seems to be some kind of service provider in business communications (maybe they have web hosting maybe not).
Thankyou for your engineers report, have you used one though was the question?Welding seams would be the first to give up if plate is decent. No reason for weld seams, other than to protect the heating pad and wires I guess. Also the design is stupid, for the seams. Adds about 100% weight to less resistant for hits, might fall over and no possibility for automatic reset (like etc. hanging targets) and so on.
I can see it would be better for something else than zeroing a rifle by single person. Heating might take ages (and drain small battery), aiming not precise (distance vs. thermal), hit location not known after few hits even if you go back to target...
On a range or with few friends plinking at several targets at different distances, could be fun if the targets hold up. More like building confidence and routine for your night gear than anything else.
The 200m distance may be from a liability perspective…?And can stand up to 308 at close range but it would concern me this 200m minimum distance
I assumed based on comparing the welds lower down that it is a bead of silicone or similar adhesive holding on a plastic back box so it can be removed if necessary.Welding seams would be the first to give up if plate is decent. No reason for weld seams, other than to protect the heating pad and wires I guess. Also the design is stupid, for the seams. Adds about 100% weight to less resistant for hits, might fall over and no possibility for automatic reset (like etc. hanging targets) and so on.
I can see it would be better for something else than zeroing a rifle by single person. Heating might take ages (and drain small battery), aiming not precise (distance vs. thermal), hit location not known after few hits even if you go back to target...
On a range or with few friends plinking at several targets at different distances, could be fun if the targets hold up. More like building confidence and routine for your night gear than anything else.
Correct, all the Hardox target suppliers state 200m but not all of them supply good quality Hardox which is why my gongs take my 270 and .303 at 50yds with no issues.The 200m distance may be from a liability perspective…?
Maybe it’s to protect the electronics of the heat pad?And can stand up to 308 at close range but it would concern me this 200m minimum distance