Heated Hardox Target

I assumed based on comparing the welds lower down that it is a bead of silicone or similar adhesive holding on a plastic back box so it can be removed if necessary.
I assumed the same, but I was talking about weld seams between the strike plate and stand, and probably also in the stand itself. It's much better to either bolt stuff together (bolts can be replaced) or assemble it with joints that need no welding ("drop in place" style).

Re post #20 and for further enjoyment for OP (re: #16), I don't believe there are much electronics in the heating pad. If it's meant to be ran for long time, there might be some form of thermostat (maybe the heating pad properties change based on temperature). Or it could be controlled just by restricting the current via plain old resistance.

Re: Youtube link, there 3 subscribers and 4 videos, all 1 year old. Not exactly a sign of active business. 25 to 93 views per video, I wonder how many has come based on this thread...
 
I assumed the same, but I was talking about weld seams between the strike plate and stand, and probably also in the stand itself. It's much better to either bolt stuff together (bolts can be replaced) or assemble it with joints that need no welding ("drop in place" style).

Re post #20 and for further enjoyment for OP (re: #16), I don't believe there are much electronics in the heating pad. If it's meant to be ran for long time, there might be some form of thermostat (maybe the heating pad properties change based on temperature). Or it could be controlled just by restricting the current via plain old resistance.

Re: Youtube link, there 3 subscribers and 4 videos, all 1 year old. Not exactly a sign of active business. 25 to 93 views per video, I wonder how many has come based on this thread...
I wonder if you glued or welded a small envelope or pouch on the rear of a standard hardox target and dropped a reusable hand warmer into the pouch it'd warm up enough of the metal target to stand out quite visible to a thermal.

Would be a cheap alternative.
 
I wonder if you glued or welded a small envelope or pouch on the rear of a standard hardox target and dropped a reusable hand warmer into the pouch it'd warm up enough of the metal target to stand out quite visible to a thermal.

Would be a cheap alternative.
Never work, we spot heat hardox to make it easier to drill and that cherry red takes a while with Oxy/acl from a cutting torch
 
I'm surprised by this. ThermX popped up about a year and a half ago, generated some publicity, then vanished. I assumed due to focusing on making targets for military rather than civilian use.

These could still be good training aids as part of a civilian night shooting course, but it would not be enough to hear the hit, you would have to follow up and confirm the strike would have resulted in a clean kill. Hunting requires a higher accuracy standard than combat.
 
100 metres I believe.
I did not take it.
OK so the image has no value. We don't know the distance, we don't know the device [that was used to take the pic]. Like Tim was suspecting, there is no way the image is taken at 100m.

Let's be generous and say the neck of the "fox" is 6" / 15cm. 12um device with 50mm lens has resolution of 0.24 MRAD. So each pixel is about 1" x 1". Neck should be 6 pixels, and look at the grass in front of the target!

Other useful info would've included, what [battery] was used to heat the target, how long had it been on, was it day or night (when had sun set?), ambient temperature... some have to do with how the target has heated and others about the surroundings.
 
If you shoot fairly small groups on the say head area repeatedly in the same session the target will work harden and eventually one will go through. Might happen a bit faster with this as there content seem to be the “give” to the shot that you get with a gong. Move the zero point around and it should last but eventually it will give the so do. Experience based on owning dozens of hardox targets and using them every day.
 
As I keep saying, there’s Hardox then there’s Hardox, my gongs have been shot from 50-250yds with .204,.22/250,.270,.243,.303 with no major damage, if you’ve got Hardox that won’t take shots at under 200, it ain’t Hardox.
 
Not with the varmint calibers. Under 200 and at 100 its ruins them, makes dents and holes after a while.
Are you sure it’s hardox ? I use a 22-250 on mine for zeroing at 150 and it’s fine , there’s certain no dents in it that’s for sure. I’ve had it for the last 10 yrs. 👍
 
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