I have to say, tomorrow I am hoping to zero the 243, so I will have a look and see if it will work for me. I haven’t actually looked at the app other than for updating the softwear or checking a shoot I took.
hik micro alpex 4k zeroing what Im I doing wrong
- Thread starter timeandtide1
- Start date
Make sure you set up distance correctly in zeroing settings
The display will show you how much you changed POI, if you set zeroing distance correctly.
Cheers
Increasing the X value shifts the impact left, while increasing the Y value lowers the impact.
The display will show you how much you changed POI, if you set zeroing distance correctly.
Cheers
I have been suffering with mine . Getting to the end of my tether of shifting from the previous zero , all i have been doing is re-zero and re-zero again had it 3 months now and its going back to the dealer . its often way out as in its lost the memory where we where at !
The images are not really clear enough when your zeroing on paper also . The dealer has been spoken to and i am sending it back , in turn he is talking of sending it back to the makers to be corrected after he has a test with it . We shall speak tomorrow before it goes off because i am so disappointed and i have little faith in its long term reliability if indeed it does need fixing 1 shot zero ? i am at 240 or so . previous to my last zero in attempt i was maybe 1" off to the left when poor light stopped me, took it out yesterday and it was off the plywood 1mtr x 2 mtr .
Instructions are not supplied and the handbook is smaller that an Action man sized newspaper. put the 6x42 S& Bender back on the 223 and wow its so way lighter and easier to shoot, clearer daylight images and having the bases still on that scope i bet my house on it being bang on or very close to it first shot , if its not it will be a click or 2 only
The images are not really clear enough when your zeroing on paper also . The dealer has been spoken to and i am sending it back , in turn he is talking of sending it back to the makers to be corrected after he has a test with it . We shall speak tomorrow before it goes off because i am so disappointed and i have little faith in its long term reliability if indeed it does need fixing 1 shot zero ? i am at 240 or so . previous to my last zero in attempt i was maybe 1" off to the left when poor light stopped me, took it out yesterday and it was off the plywood 1mtr x 2 mtr .
Instructions are not supplied and the handbook is smaller that an Action man sized newspaper. put the 6x42 S& Bender back on the 223 and wow its so way lighter and easier to shoot, clearer daylight images and having the bases still on that scope i bet my house on it being bang on or very close to it first shot , if its not it will be a click or 2 only
kenbro
Well-Known Member
Poor light stopped play with nv equipment?
Cheers, Ken.
taln
Well-Known Member
I have exact same problems
Pellet Pinger
Well-Known Member
Are you running the latest software?
Also when you’ve zeroed are you defiantly saving the perameters?
Yeah the Apex although better than any traditional optic when it is truly night dark with the infer-red scope and gives a good bit more light when your shooting shooting into the gloming also to be fair but bullet holes in paper nope I have some cheapo optics are i think better. What it cannot do as good as any reasonable optical scope in many other situations ... You wont ever see a vapour trail of the bullet for and to the point i cannot make out bullet holes even at 50 yards . Now all my traditional optics allow bullet holes to be seen and strikes on steel , as well as vapour trails . Most of my better optic scopes you can see mirage , vapour trails , bullet holes in the target for a lot longer range. You can also shoot optic scopes at full moon with no torch ( the 8x56 S&B ) being a scope specifically designed to deal with high seat Boar over bait around the moon .
If you compare if an off colour grainy view given under tree cover against One of my S&Bender, Leupold scopes there is a big advantage in seeing the detail in that what your shooting ! In this case i lost light and the acuity in conditions the better optic scopes would eat up for breakfast no problems! ( and that's after messing with the front focus and the rear )
Lets get on the same page eh?
cheers Bowland
The thing was purchased new December. Not always , i find that's one of the most annoying thing easy done though
If i have to be changing software in what is a gun sight - its not for me and it will be sold . I am of the not fixing what is working generation.
Pellet Pinger
Well-Known Member
If you aren’t saving the perameters after adjusting zero it wont save them so you will be chasing your tail.
Regarding software, it will be the first thing they check when you send it back, if it needs updating they will do it and just send it back. You could save yourself the trouble of sending it back by doing it yourself 10min job or ask your retailer to do it.
its going back to the retailer . Yeah it asks me and I agree but it has been disappearing a time or two Save peramiters yeah?
Pellet Pinger
Well-Known Member
Hmm hope you get it sorted.
I don't use the App as such I only want to use a digital day/ night scope.
Im helping a retired chap zero his this week sometime , just wondering if the app will be easier for us.
I do mine on the scope with no issues to be fair.
Download the app, it’s the only way to update it, view videos etc etc. None of this is particularly difficult, if you can set up a smart TV you can fathom these things.
I always zero at 14-18x mag at least, if you are zeroing at 3.5x @100yds you might be massively over adjusting, who knows. It could be faulty, although for me they’ve been pretty bomb proof.
If it’s taking more than 4/5 shots to zero…you are doing it wrong, it’s been a maximum of 3 shots to zero for me and I’ve been on them 2 years over 3 different rifles. Usually I am pretty much on the money in 2 and another to fine tune.
Fantastic bit of kit for the money. It isn’t a glass scope, and shouldn’t be confused for one, but within a specific remit they are superb. I can pretty much see shots on paper out to 100 and often much more….few trips to Barnard castle required around these parts….
I always zero at 14-18x mag at least, if you are zeroing at 3.5x @100yds you might be massively over adjusting, who knows. It could be faulty, although for me they’ve been pretty bomb proof.
If it’s taking more than 4/5 shots to zero…you are doing it wrong, it’s been a maximum of 3 shots to zero for me and I’ve been on them 2 years over 3 different rifles. Usually I am pretty much on the money in 2 and another to fine tune.
Fantastic bit of kit for the money. It isn’t a glass scope, and shouldn’t be confused for one, but within a specific remit they are superb. I can pretty much see shots on paper out to 100 and often much more….few trips to Barnard castle required around these parts….
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It's by far the easiest way to zero too.
And that's coming from me, who would struggle to set up a smart TV.
Sorry for the delay. I was just giving my thoughts having had an nice easy experience of zeroing the scope. However I agree with you that the theory on a traditional is easier then digitals...especially, as i have done...you dont save the co ordinates
Pellet Pinger
Well-Known Member
It does! its far easier on the Alpex than a traditional scope, as said freeze the image on your point of aim and then move the cross hairs to where the bulllet impacted and save co ordinates. It even tells you how many mm you have moved your POI.
It really is that simple, most folk get it, a few don’t.
The co ordinates are just there for a reference, thats all.
Hammerhand72
Member
Are any of you using a chrono or just going by factory data? just asking as about to set one up for diff rifles
