HIKmicro Alpex 4K scopes and zeroing with the HIK app in detail please

[little hawk]

Hiya,

I have a HIKmicro Alpex 4K scope with rangefinder etc. It is great, works well. But I need help in zeroing with the HIK app. I am pretty much zero'd but need fine adjustment that is very hard to do using the manual method. I am talking adjustments would on a conventional scope be a few clicks. Please advise. Or if there are any videos that go over just this. The HIK video is so minimal that is hard to decipher, at least for me.

 

[RCS Deer Management]

I appreciate that this isn’t a helpful comment in relation to your question but is there any reason you can’t do it on the scope? Have you realised that you can freeze and zoom in the image whilst zeroing? It shouldn’t be an issue making even tiny adjustments

 

[little hawk]

I am having trouble with tiny amounts of adjustment and my scope moving as I do it, so adjustments on the order of 20mm etc.

 

[RCS Deer Management]

Have you frozen the screen? There is a freeze button. Point the crosshairs at the bullseye and then freeze the screen, you can then adjust the reticule to the poi without having to hold the rifle steady.

 

[Daisymay]

I am having trouble with tiny amounts of adjustment and my scope moving as I do it, so adjustments on the order of 20mm etc.

Can't remember, sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong , but at a higher mag are the adjustments not finer ???

 

[WalkedUp]

You can also adjust it in the scope by measured distances rather than freeze frame. Is the zero range set correctly etc? If you want DM me your number and I’ll call you at lunch. You’ll need to know your Alpex model and software number etc.

 

[tarponhead]

I had the same issue, but Ineffectively ignored the process when Inwas about to.5 MOA adrift and just tweaked it with the x/y based on how far out it was. That was after frustration with be8ng able to freeze it at the exact point of aim. My only caveat would be that the image when shooting isn’t so sharp as to enable pin point shooting anyway, except at ranges less than 75m. I happy with minute of rabbit head/fox, accepting that my group would be about 1 MOA anyway.

 

[20-250]

Hiya,

I have a HIKmicro Alpex 4K scope with rangefinder etc. It is great, works well. But I need help in zeroing with the HIK app. I am pretty much zero'd but need fine adjustment that is very hard to do using the manual method. I am talking adjustments would on a conventional scope be a few clicks. Please advise. Or if there are any videos that go over just this. The HIK video is so minimal that is hard to decipher, at least for me.

Have you installed the app and connected to your scope with it?

 

[little hawk]

Yes, I have installed the app and have had it working more or less. It does not load so easily, so I have to turn my wi-fi on and off to do that.

I agree that the image is not as sharp as it could be and this means it is harder to do fine adjustments by hand with the freeze function.

 

[little hawk]

You can also adjust it in the scope by measured distances rather than freeze frame. Is the zero range set correctly etc? If you want DM me your number and I’ll call you at lunch. You’ll need to know your Alpex model and software number etc.

I presume I can now adjust the scope at home if I refer to the last target I shot set up at 75m and measure the distance to move it etc.? I can also see from the movies where I was holding too to confirm this. I do have the tendency to hold a bit low.

 

[WalkedUp]

Yes you can do it at home. I would go out and verify on the shoot too in the next few weeks.

 

[Jh1986]

I presume I can now adjust the scope at home if I refer to the last target I shot set up at 75m and measure the distance to move it etc.? I can also see from the movies where I was holding too to confirm this. I do have the tendency to hold a bit low.

I did exactly this. Zeroed at a lesser distance as it was absolutely hammering down and I shot from a shed. Used ballistics to work out how out I was at 100m. Went home and manually adjusted by that amount. Next time I was out, it was bang on at 100m

 

[Tim.243]

Hiya,

I have a HIKmicro Alpex 4K scope with rangefinder etc. It is great, works well. But I need help in zeroing with the HIK app. I am pretty much zero'd but need fine adjustment that is very hard to do using the manual method. I am talking adjustments would on a conventional scope be a few clicks. Please advise. Or if there are any videos that go over just this. The HIK video is so minimal that is hard to decipher, at least for me.

With any scope you need to have repeatably in holding the rifle/scope, you can adjust till the cows come home but if you are on a poor rest
then the result will be chasing the shot placement around.
We all started with glass so clicking up down will have been a learnt skill and I only did one X or Y at a time, many people will get the freeze frame method. But it wont work for the wind on long shots, yes the digital clicks are not that fine but in a stalking/walking/crawling situation neither are we with the heart going boom boom lol

 

[WalkedUp]

Agree with Tim, specifically:
1. Don’t offset to account for mistakes. You have to just shoot and see where the shots lay rather than “oh I snatched that one” etc.
2. Adjust X or Y only at a time, otherwise it becomes a tangled nightmare.

This may have gone off topic, so no longer relevant to the OP’s question so apologies but I feel worth highlighting especially for newer shooters.

I would add that for me zero is only zero when it is repeatable. I don’t consider as scope ‘zeroed’ until you can take it out and they are repeatedly on target. I only make minor tweaks if there is a consistent bias. The below was three rifles being tested by three people on a little training session this week, interchanging guns 223, 22-250 and 308. The 223 had only been bore sighted prior. The guns were shooting off sticks. You can see that there is a bias but it is not significant enough to bother to adjust for on that session. Next session if the bias is repeated I’d consider adjusting. We went out lamping after this with great success. No missed shots, one of the lads took his first centre fire quarry.

 

[sauer]

My hik tq50 the first one doesnt have freeze option and wheb in X & Y adjustment you can't zoom in so 1x .... bloody pain for moving on correctly to impact ....
Cracking to shoot once zeroed tho ...
Mmmm wonder of can use app to zoom in when doing X & Y
.paul

 

[farrieral]

I just work out my near zero (ballistic app makes it easy!)... so with the .308 its 36 yards, which leaves me 1.75" high @ 100 and smack on at 220 with my home loads in that rifle.

I have the non lrf version on the 308, so that gives me point and shoot out to decent stalking ranges.

LRF on the 243 for foxing, as its always harder to range at night I find, but I use the same method.

Easier to zero close in, just confirm at 100 & 200 after, its normally pretty close if not exact.

Obviously you need to know speeds etc.

 

[Tim.243]

Agree with Tim, specifically:
1. Don’t offset to account for mistakes. You have to just shoot and see where the shots lay rather than “oh I snatched that one” etc.
2. Adjust X or Y only at a time, otherwise it becomes a tangled nightmare.

This may have gone off topic, so no longer relevant to the OP’s question so apologies but I feel worth highlighting especially for newer shooters.

I would add that for me zero is only zero when it is repeatable. I don’t consider as scope ‘zeroed’ until you can take it out and they are repeatedly on target. I only make minor tweaks if there is a consistent bias. The below was three rifles being tested by three people on a little training session this week, interchanging guns 223, 22-250 and 308. The 223 had only been bore sighted prior. The guns were shooting off sticks. You can see that there is a bias but it is not significant enough to bother to adjust for on that session. Next session if the bias is repeated I’d consider adjusting. We went out lamping after this with great success. No missed shots, one of the lads took his first centre fire quarry.

View attachment 463781

good info on how to get where people need to be, it not wasted just simple steps where many people have the blinkers on.
I zero off my sticks as that has all the bad habits built in, fat x hairs make it harder to see the bull at 100yds.