Ideas for a new knife build: the Compact Roe Grallocher

[zambezi]

Do you still do that?

Sequence I use is as per above. Broadly it is an amalgam of Outdoor55, SimpleLittleLife, Alec Steele and Shurap forging techniques found on YT.

 

[Danny25790]

I have the exact same forge as you and I didn't even know I could get a thermometer for it, I will definitely be getting one now. Your blade looks really smart very well done. I too am new to knife making still learning. This is the 2nd one I have made

 

[zambezi]

I have the exact same forge as you and I didn't even know I could get a thermometer for it, I will definitely be getting one now. Your blade looks really smart very well done. I too am new to knife making still learningView attachment 163979. This is the 2nd one I have made

That looks to be a very competent build! It is a great hobby. Every project throws up some new lessons.

 

[zambezi]

The Genge slabs were clamped to pine waste wood to protect the drill eruption zone lip, and holes made to accommodate mosaic pins. Then epoxy was mixed up and applied to slabs and pins and then clamped. Finally, excess epoxy was cleaned off plunge line facing slab edge and knife set upright to harden.

 

[zambezi]

Progress today was rapid. Slabs had glued up a treat. I trimmed the excess mosaic pin material off and used the mini-linisher to sculpt the slabs to follow the tang shape . Final sanding was by hand with ever finer grits. Pretty happy with the outcome. I have a Lansky sharpener on order and will hold off putting the micro bevel on this blade till that arrives. Once that is done I will update with field trials...

 

[zambezi]

The penultimate step in this knife project's journey: the blade sharpening. [sheath will be finale]

I ordered a Lansky system to ensure I applied symmetric secondary bevels. I quickly learnt that the oilstone guide rods can bop around a bit in their guide holes if you don't dampen their movement. What worked best for me is to lay an index finger over the back of the rod . The other takeaway for me was to use a mirror to view top and bottom bevels simultaneously so I could compare progress and thus know when to flip the work piece . The final revelation was that the Lansky's finest stone was still not as fine as my Spyderco ceramic which I used to hand polish the bevels before stropping . Final test is, as ever:

 

[zambezi]

Finale: the sheath. Well it's a sheath. 1st attempt. A bit rubbish really. In part because I did not have a more appropriate piece of leather so did a quick-n-dirty assembly. Will get better materials next time

 

[takbok]

Wow, that's a beauty. Very nice!!

 

[bullet chucker]

Very well done Sir' the photo's and description are spot on in my view. An interesting insight from start to finish, again very VERY well done.

BC.

 

[ezzy6.5]

Nice work. Try some 80crv or some 01. You can get great results with simple kit. My first knife was 80crv heat treated with 2 map gas torches and tempered in the oven in our kitchen. Admittedly it doesn’t hold an edge like some of the fancy steels I use now but I can do 2 or 3 deer with it if I’m careful and it’s easy to sharpen.
keep up the good work.

 

[zambezi]

fancy steels I use now

Please elaborate. I am keen on RWL34 or AEBL as I have read great things about them. Heat treat is a bit particular though. Any photos of your work?

 

[ezzy6.5]

 

[ezzy6.5]

I like N690. It’s easy to work. I use cryogenic heat treatment and harden it to 59rc which I like for a hunting knife. Any harder it’s a sod to sharpen. Some of the Sandvik steels are great and very cost effective. Nialox+ is great and finishes well. 440c is another great steel. In my opinion, if the heat treatment and geometry are good. You’d be hard pressed to tell the difference on a working knife.