Norfolk Horn
Well-Known Member
Have you got a suitable electric supply to deal with the requirements of these units.
Instant water heater
- Thread starter sh1kar
- Start date
Norfolk Horn
Well-Known Member
Well the one in your original post is rated 3.3kw and the units in your list at the top is12kw and then 7 kw if I'm reading it correctly.
Before you spend your money I would get it checked out by a sparks as 12 kw is a hell of a load it could require 3 phase as that's 60A at 220 volts.
I'm a retired building site manager so understand the rudiments I think as its awhile ago now.
As I say get some advice from a qualified electrician, I'm sure there must be a few on here.
Sonicdmb73
Well-Known Member
The 3.3kw one is about the equivalent of a fast boil kettle. So you are probably looking at that working with existing supply that runs sockets (subject to it being the correct wire, breaker etc). The 12kw separate supply think power shower.
As you are mixing electric and water you need a sparky to sort it for you. So you might as well get them to tell you what your options are. ie what you can use without modifying the circuit and what you can have if you do.
I’m a plumber and the cheap ariston ones from screwfix are brilliant we fit loads of them in hospitals and offices, they don’t skip a beat. as stated above they run off a switch fused spare from ur ring main and don’t require a 6/10mm cable being pulled in from your board.
just bare in mind u need to pipe in a expansion relief so this will need to be drilled to the outside or into a internal grid incase it ever overheats
just bare in mind u need to pipe in a expansion relief so this will need to be drilled to the outside or into a internal grid incase it ever overheats
Sonicdmb73
Well-Known Member
So basically you have a 20amp breaker to a switched spur. So you’re looking at a 3kw or so heater.
I suspect that the consumer unit has a bit of age about it. You would be best to have it tested (should be done anyway if sparky does it right) to make sure that the RCD is working properly. Better safe than sorry.
I suspect that the consumer unit has a bit of age about it. You would be best to have it tested (should be done anyway if sparky does it right) to make sure that the RCD is working properly. Better safe than sorry.
gonzo
Well-Known Member
With the recent proclamation that new build houses will soon not be allowed to have gas heating installed, and the air/ground source systems that will replace them, are fairly low temp devices. We should see a lot of these sort of units becoming available.
Doesn't help at the mo, but there may be better offerings in the near future?
Doesn't help at the mo, but there may be better offerings in the near future?
Norfolk Horn
Well-Known Member
Residual circuit breaker.
Earth trip in other words. So if you have a fault to earth it cuts off the electric supply in a fraction of a second in layman's terms.
Hope this helps
Sonicdmb73
Well-Known Member
As above its the bit that stops your electric killing or maiming you if it goes wrong. Ok a bit dramatic but that’s worse case scenario, it can help prevent fires too.
The RCD is the one on right, the yellow button on the top of it is the test button. You should press it and it should trip every few months.
The test on installation and or alterations using a specific tester involves the tester deliberately tripping the RCD. To see if it does what it’s designed to do properly.
240v can and does kill, add water to the mix and you can make it easier if there’s a fault for it to be fatal.
If you are not sure get a sparky to sort it and test it out. Technically if a plumber is not qualified in electrical testing then they should not be connecting the electrical supply to any heater etc. Be safe you want to be able to enjoy your stalking after all.
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