For Sale: Knife Sharpening/ Regrinding service

Is there a knack to the rizla chopping? I tried that the other day and couldn’t do it at all, I had just sharpened the knife and it would easily shave hair i.e. one pass and all the hair was gone just like a razor. So is there a knack? Or is rizla chopping sharp a step up from shaving sharp?
 
Sorry for an delay getting back to you guys. Have been on hols to 'sunny' Cornwall for a week. Pm's now replied to .

The swingblade will benefit from a properly formed convex edge that you can strop to maintain.

Rizla cutting is a combination of good technique and an edge that is a stage beyond that at which you can shave arm-hair. Given the correct edge geometry and good steel I can make an edge that will cut arm hairs without touching the skin, but an edge like that will not last on 'real work' so I sharpen working knives to better than just shaving sharp but not to an extreme. It's a case of 'Horses for courses' and knowing how an edge will be asked to work determines the edge geometry that will best suit the blade. Having a 'feel' for the steel when honing also shows me how well a particular edge is likely to perform.
 
Feedback: I have had my Alan wood knife for over 7 years only stroppped it in that time, but it was in need of a sharpen, I sent it to longstrider for a sharpen on his stones, it came back sharper than when I first got it new, top job!!
 
Sorry for an delay getting back to you guys. Have been on hols to 'sunny' Cornwall for a week. Pm's now replied to .

The swingblade will benefit from a properly formed convex edge that you can strop to maintain.

Rizla cutting is a combination of good technique and an edge that is a stage beyond that at which you can shave arm-hair. Given the correct edge geometry and good steel I can make an edge that will cut arm hairs without touching the skin, but an edge like that will not last on 'real work' so I sharpen working knives to better than just shaving sharp but not to an extreme. It's a case of 'Horses for courses' and knowing how an edge will be asked to work determines the edge geometry that will best suit the blade. Having a 'feel' for the steel when honing also shows me how well a particular edge is likely to perform.
Thats interesting, I'd like to try that some time, so you use a different angle for rislas? what angle do you use if so? I tend to do work knives at 20deg and kitchen at 17deg, I know some people do kitchen knives at 15deg but I don't have any problem with mine at 17.
 
Thats interesting, I'd like to try that some time, so you use a different angle for rislas? what angle do you use if so? I tend to do work knives at 20deg and kitchen at 17deg, I know some people do kitchen knives at 15deg but I don't have any problem with mine at 17.

You're using set angle edges then Tom .. I'm guessing that's by using a sharpening jig ? I sharpen by eye and hand with diamond hones and then strop to produce an even convex edge that flows from cutting edge to main grind bevel. If I am looking for an edge that's solely for silly stuff like Rizla cutting then I'll make the edge finer and more acute. I can cut Rizlas with any of my working edges, but it's easier with an edge prepared for just such stuff. I have done a Rizla cut with my Gransfor Bruks Axe. That axe makes very light work of sectioning green wood I can tell you ! ;) Half the problem with set angle edges (as I see it) is the corner at the transition from primary to secondary grind angles (main blade bevel to edge angle). It 'catches' at the material being cut if a penatrative cut is needed and make the job harder to do. Look at the shape of a racing yacht hull if you want something that will slide easily through material ;)
 
You're using set angle edges then Tom .. I'm guessing that's by using a sharpening jig ? I sharpen by eye and hand with diamond hones and then strop to produce an even convex edge that flows from cutting edge to main grind bevel. If I am looking for an edge that's solely for silly stuff like Rizla cutting then I'll make the edge finer and more acute. I can cut Rizlas with any of my working edges, but it's easier with an edge prepared for just such stuff. I have done a Rizla cut with my Gransfor Bruks Axe. That axe makes very light work of sectioning green wood I can tell you ! ;) Half the problem with set angle edges (as I see it) is the corner at the transition from primary to secondary grind angles (main blade bevel to edge angle). It 'catches' at the material being cut if a penatrative cut is needed and make the job harder to do. Look at the shape of a racing yacht hull if you want something that will slide easily through material ;)
Cheers! I don't use jig, I just use a angle guide at the start of each stroke so that they all start off at the same angle. I might play around with a convex edge and see how it performs.
 
I have an EKA Swingblade and I like the design but it doesn’t hold a good edge, Would it be worthwhile getting it reground/sharpened angle changed whatever or am I just throwing money down the drain if it is quality of the steel?
Hi I re ground mine to a flat grind and mad enough it a bit less deep much better now
 
Sorry to ask a silly question but do you make knives as well as just sharpen then?

No such thing as a silly question .. but there are plenty of daft answers out there :lol:

I certainly can. I was a Full-time Custom Knife Maker for a few years and have recently been refurbing my workshop at home so as to be up-and-running again on the making/ making courses/sharpening courses front.

Drop me your number via PM and we can discuss your requirements ;)
 
I can thoroughly recommend Longstriders work.

I had a Master Hunter which I had managed to butcher through mal practice whilst sharpening it with an electric device and also it had a bow in the blade caused by the same mal treatment.

Longstrider completely repaired it creating an Uber sharp tip again and also a straight edge on the blade whilst at the same time putting what I could only describe as a razor edge on the blade. I have just tried it out on 5 fallow this morning and I’ve never used anything as sharp. Highly recommended.
 
I also thoroughly recommend Longstriders work.
He put a fantastic convex edge on an old puma of mine. The knife has never been sharper and I have never had a sharper knife. He also made me a great quality strop to keep it razor sharp. Fantastic service, only four days including postage time to when I received it back this morning. Top class work and a pleasure to deal with.
P.S It was I and the previous owner (Rhodesian Game Warden) who scratched the blade, not Ian :lol:
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I have just had some work done to a knife I’d damaged, I am extremely happy with the results.
I would highly recommend longstriders services he does a fantastic job.
 
just got knife back sent monday got back today quick service and sharpest ive ever seen it brilliant job
thanks
 
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